A Love Letter to The Golden Swan, a Restaurant for Celebrations Small and Big

Initial murmurings were that it was “clubby,” but not like those flavor-of-the-month hot spots I tend to avoid. The classification as clubby wasn’t a surprise to me, as Abramyck was once a partner in the iconic Beatrice Inn, a club that dominated the downtown nightlife scene in the early aughts. Forever a fan of a West Village night out and curious enough to see what the next chapter held for that corner townhouse, I secured a reservation.

On the night I first arrived, I was ushered in a clandestine side door and upstairs past servers in white jackets to the most elegant and intimate dining room downtown. This was nothing like what came before it. The space was transformed by mirrored walls, white tablecloths, velvet curtains, and chandeliers. As the sun was set, my guest and I were tucked into a discreet corner where we felt in the heart of it all, but also all to ourselves. It had all the makings of the city’s fine-dining stalwarts, except the music was a little louder, the lights were a little dimmer, and the servers were professionals (in a non-robotic way). The ambiance was delightfully uptown, but in a cool, downtown way. It felt like the West Village’s answer to a grand, celebratory restaurant — but with an edge. It was older, more mature and with a love of the history of the city. It has since become one of my favorite dining rooms in New York.

Vibes achieved, I wondered: Could the food deliver as well? The menu was selective and specific, filled with updated French Mediterranean classics with a global, greenmarket twist. It’s more sophisticated than bistro fare, aside from one of the city’s best burgers. Diners will find inspired interpretations of foie gras mousse and steak tartare, as well pitch-perfect iterations of canonical celebratory dishes like sole meuniere and a tableside carved cote de boeuf for two that’s on special every night.

On a recent visit, the true sleeper hit was a chilled corn soup, topped with a filo-wrapped prawn. It was refreshing, yet satisfying and just the right amount of indulgent. The food exudes confidence. It’s well executed, approachable, and treading that luxurious, yet cutting-edge line. This isn’t a menu with a chef’s ego at its core. Brixton isn’t showing off, he’s serving accessible flavors prepared with the care and sophistication that showcases his time working for some of the city’s best chefs.

Although the environs scream Champagne, which is certainly available, the wine and cocktails are secretly some of the best in the city. I’m forever on the hunt for cocktails that lean more tart, refreshing, and herbaceous rather than sweet. I instantly gravitated to their house martini made with am just a hint of smoky mezcal, carrot eau de vie, and comes topped with a piquillo pepper. It has all the marks of the classic cocktail, but with a welcome, spicy twist. Every drink I’ve tried, the menu changes with the seasons, whether it was sake-spiked or gin-based. And my go-to filthy, vodka martini, was always executed at the highest degree. The wine list is a mix of clean, classic, yet thoughtfully produced wines and bottles from younger producers. It’s very on-brand with the overall ethos of The Golden Swan, respect for history, but firmly rooted in the present.

An element that is hard to seamlessly achieve in the city is to have two related, yet distinct concepts in one space. At The Golden Swan, you’ll find my beloved, more opulent, dining room upstairs and the more casual Wallace Room downstairs. On the ground floor, you wouldn’t be amiss to show-up with your children for brunch of fluffy pancakes or an early weeknight dinner. It would also serve a post-work happy hour with a colleague well. If you’re looking for the charm of a neighborhood tavern, it’s here, too, but upstairs, with specialness and grandeur.

Since that initial visit, I’ve since returned several times, and the restaurant seems to be getting better as it ages. Although, it’s less than two years old, it has all the signs that it will stand the test of time. There’s a rare timeless elegance it achieves, it’s one foot very much in the future, but with just the right amount of nods and reverence for history that will let it adapt well to our changing times. The name in itself is an homage to another iconic Greenwich Village tavern that was once frequented by poets, artists and authors. It was opened at the turn of the 19th century by barman Thomas Wallace, who the downstairs portion of the restaurant is named for. It’s been long since demolished, but stood where the West 4th St subway station now stands. The Golden Swan understands its lineage.

My reasons for returning have been diverse. I’ve been on dates with girlfriends, romantic evenings with my husband, and with a large group celebrating the birthday of a 70-something family member. Each time, my guests and I were all impressed by the food, but also the atmosphere. It’s hard to please both 30-somethings looking for a night-out and those in their 70s and 80s, but The Golden Swan manages to. It’s buzzy and fun but on that night with my family, they took note of the crowd and sat us somewhere intimate, even turned down the music. It was that care and attention to detail that is a mark of a great restaurant. It allowed us to linger for hours (I think four to be exact), over plates of stellar dishes and seemingly endless glasses of rosé. We toasted to the birthday woman while devouring sticky toffee pudding and knowing, we’d all be back.

I respect those uptown temples of service like Daniel, Le Bernardin, and Eleven Madison Park. But when I want to put on a dress, some lipstick, and make a toast, they aren’t what I’m looking for. The Golden Swan is. It has that intimacy, the pomp, but the undeniable cool factor that my, guilty as charged, Lower East Side-residing self craves. Abramyck and his staff have done a full 180 and transformed the space, just as he did with the storied Beatrice, which was once an Italian Red Sauce joint before it became the nightclub. I guess The Golden Swan shows that he’s all grown up now, but still has that magical effect to keep me coming back.

The Golden Swan is open Monday to Friday for dinner starting at 5 p.m. to 1 a.m., and on Saturday from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m., and on Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Kyle Beechey is a New York-based freelance writer and dinner party enthusiast. Follow her on Instagram. Follow Resy, too.