The March Hit List: Mi Casa, Bindaas, Centrolina, The Royal and More

Let’s dispel the myth that adulting and Tex-Mex cannot go together; Mi Casa in Dupont, among the latest and most intimately scaled restaurants from Knead Hospitality, proves just that. There are de rigueur sizzling fajita platters, served with freshness and polish. See also: yellowtail ceviche with passion fruit ponzo, serrano chile and orange; Baja fish tacos with tempura-battered cod and cabbage escabeche; and chile relleno — tomato-braised shrimp, calamari, and scallop-stuffed roasted poblanos with a goat cheese cream sauce. In terms of the decor, earthy finishes and a coastal palette recall Tulum. The weatherproof-convertible sunroom is a sure bet for happy hour, rain or shine.

At Bindaas, from James Beard award-winning chef Vikram Sundaram, Indian street food is showcased in its many forms. It’s just right for a lunchtime detour from fast-casual efficiency, for savory snacks like bhel puri — a crispy puffed rice, mango, mint, and onion salad, alongside vindaloo served with buttery griddled pao rolls. Or flip the script on brunch and enjoy bottomless Champagne with amritsari fried chicken and waffles with makhani gravy. For the elusive low-key Washington date night (in handsome digs, no less), order a spread of chaats, street karee, and shashlik (kebabs), like the addictive shrimp bezule that crackles with mustard seeds and green chile, and the aromatic and delectable bass chutneywala, a filet of bass coated in coconut and cilantro and steamed in banana leaves.

We do not wish upon anyone the regret of missing out on chef-owner Amy Brandwein’s current menu at the modern Italian osteria Centrolina. Consider starting with the burrata with caramelized Nantucket bay scallops, bottarga, and chive. Follow that with Brandwein’s rendition of “hunters” pasta — chestnut pappardelle, with a red wine- and cocoa-braised ragu of venison, duck, and rabbit. And for the finale, a fisherman’s feast of swordfish, octopus, and shrimp roasted in the wood oven, enriched with ‘nduja butter and served with collard greens and white beans.

When you’re after uncompromising fine dining with neither stodginess nor the desperate chase of the latest trends, but rather a confident, contemporary finesse, look no further than Annabelle. Chef Frank Ruta’s current menu includes highlights such as wild-caught Maryland striped bass crudo with pickled kumquats and Fresno chiles, with a citrus-hibiscus froth, and pan-roasted Atlantic sablefish with creamy lemon-saffron Tarbais beans and grilled treviso. Then you might go for a straight flush of seafood — say, the Norwegian cod with Bangs Island mussels, or return to land with a French hunter’s roast chicken of sorts, served with mushroom and buckwheat fricassee and sauce chasseur. Finally, refresh with a lime galangal panna cotta with lemon goat cheese foam and grapefruit sheep’s milk froyo to complete.

La Jambe is the neighborhood wine bar and bistro that’s not trying so hard to replicate the fairy tale, and feels all the more unpretentiously hip for it. Owner and French native Anastasia Mori and the crew of cheesemongers are fanatics for esoteric, terroir-driven and utterly delicious cheeses and charcuterie, so you won’t regret the melty or broiled fondue and raclette spreads on your next wintry evening out. But most of all, don’t sleep on executive chef D’Angelo Mobley’s signature takes on classic and seasonal dishes. Think steamed mussels with caviar butter and brown butter aioli, vadouvan curried lamb stuffed pâte a choux with mint labneh, and confit white asparagus layered with almond ricotta and dukkah crumble.

When looking for a gastropub that’s got enough dimly lit warmth and atmosphere to service for first dates, or you want to enjoy some oysters and a cold pint while watching the game but without the typical pub hooliganry, or you want to make the best of sunny days for brunch on the patio, Boundary Stone is your ticket. The happy hour fried fish sandwich is a winner, and we’ll gladly get out of bed for fried chicken and French toast for brunch.

At the Royal, you might stop by in the morning for an invigorating cortado and a pastel de gloria — a flaky puff pastry filled with dulce de leche, guava, and mozzarella. You might also drop by at lunchtime for the crispy pork belly with Salvadoran street corn and ember-roasted leeks. plus a cold beer. And you might revisit for happy hour to enjoy a Negroni with a crisp and buttery Colombian style cheese- and avocado-filled arepa on their patio, or arrive at dinner for their dry-aged hanger steak, cooked over their wood burning grill, served with sesame mole and crunchy ensalada de tigre, capped off with a combo of Nero d’Avola and mezcal to sip. In other words, this is the right spot for a wide range of occasions, all day (and night) long.

From the team behind Stellina and Lupe Verde,comes Lupo Pizzeria, set in a cozy 14th Street storefront lined with white brick walls and vivid ceramic tiles from the Amalfi coast, and strewn with glass lanterns and Italian football jerseys hung from clotheslines up above. Pizzas here achieve the gorgeous leopard-spotted crust and pillowy tenderness of proper wood-fired Neapolitan pizza, but the pies are shaped a bit thicker for less-mushy bottoms; it’s a good thing. For starters, fried artichokes with green bagna cauda are non-negotiable, and their pizza carbonara, made with guanciale, black pepper-pecorino cream, and egg yolks, does not disappoint.

Call 202-506-6137 for more information.

It seems the impending “vibe shift” has us craving lychee martinis and green mango salad at Baan Siam, where chef P’Boom Poksupthong, who previously ran massive hotel and catering operations in Thailand, now showcases her authoritative command of regional Thai food in the District. Among the seasonal specials, don’t sleep on the fiery southern Thai dry curry with lamb, Thai eggplant, and basil. What’s more, the Sherry and Spice tasting dinner with sherry and cocktail guru Chantal Tseng returns on March 24th.

Call 202-558-5889 for reservations.

Chef and owner Leopold Liao’s revelatory pulled noodles (pronounced “la mien” in Mandarin, and preceding Japanese ramen), are the vehicle for his aromatic broths and stir fries. Think hot and spicy “kung fu” broth with stewed beef shank, or dan dan noodles made with hot and numbing spiced ground pork, peanuts, and fermented mustard greens. Dumplings are also first class, like Chengdu pork wontons glazed in chile oil, and Shanghai steamed pork dumplings. And try not to lose it over their grandma-style pancake, a flaky scallion pancake-taco of sorts, filled with chile-spiked Mongolian-ish beef; it’s that good.

Call 202-628-0490 for reservations.