Crown Shy, Atoboy, Sylvia’s, and More: A Can’t-Miss Guide to Accessing New York’s Best

Restaurants are so often judged by the size of heaping portions on oversized platters as a metric for value. At Momofuku Ko, famed restaurateur David Chang willfully headed the other direction, straight away from his own usual abundance. As longtime fans know, this is the Japanese tradition of kaiseki, as conceived by Chang in his own unique way, and currently interpreted by executive chef Esther Ha. The revolving 10-course tasting menu has rightfully earned its two Michelin stars, and the rest of us can feel validated in shelling out for a no-expense-spared culinary experience.

The vibe

A lavish and quiet front-row seat to the culinary intricacies that still make New Yorkers (and everyone else) recall these meals months later.

Don’t miss

Marvel at Ko’s brilliant cadre of chefs as you watch them prepare (and deliver) each course. Offerings evolve with the seasons, but expect to be impressed with plates like the 45-day dry-aged striploin served with tarragon and Béarnaise alongside an airy smoked onion soufflé. 

By the way

If you’d rather choose from a la carte small plates, opt for a bar table seat to receive the same exquisite experience, on a smaller scale.

If you’ve lived in New York during the last 10 years, you will remember a time in which the proposition of heading to the Financial District outside of the weekday 9-to-5 was out of the question. Crown Shy almost singlehandedly changed that equation.

In less than three years — two of them deep in pandemic mode — this first solo project of chef James Kent and restaurateur Jeff Katz has left an indelible first impression on anyone who has walked through its Art Deco doors. And their concerted effort to make New American cuisine noteworthy has not gone unnoticed. 

The vibe

Majestic but unpretentious in a landmark building, with a restrained elegance that feels very 2020s. (And there’s always Saga and Overstory upstairs if you want even more dazzle.)

Don’t miss

You couldn’t miss the exquisite pull-apart olive bread if you tried, as it is complimentary. Consider putting your faith in the octopus à la plancha with chorizo, or the already-cherished citrus-marinated chicken with house hot sauce, which quickly raised the stakes on an oft-unremarkable poultry dish the moment it was introduced.

By the way

The Crown Shy pastry program led by chef Renata Ameni is anything but an afterthought. Each of her compositions feels effortlessly symphonic, including the chocolate tart, topped with a perfect globe of stracciatella ice cream.

For the last five years at Atoboy, husband-wife duo Junghyun and Ellia Park have proven that a Korean banchan concept centered around small plates can be a big deal. After a constant stream of rave reviews (and a Michelin Bib Gourmand), present-day Atoboy boasts a five-course prix fixe (but choose-your-own-adventure) menu, at a price that makes you feel like you’re getting away with something. Plus, if your group plays its cards right, everything on the menu can make it to the table.

The vibe

Minimalistic design, with sleek concrete surfaces, allows enthusiastic groups to enjoy the experience without distraction.

Don’t miss

The menu recently has been revamped with some bold newcomers, including a second course of salmon with celeriac, kimchi, and white trout roe. With temperatures plunging, there’s solace to be found in the pork belly accompanied by gang doenjang, sunchoke, and whelk. And to cap off the fifth and final course, the blueberry semifreddo serves as a perfect finale of sweet and savory.

By the way

You may have gotten a taste of the Atoboy flavor in a more fast-casual environment earlier this year when chef Park teamed up with Shake Shack to release a one-day-only Shrimp Burger. Keep an eye out for future pop-ups and collaborations, and a likely new project in Midtown …

As you comb through the the robust list of options for critically acclaimed restaurants in Williamsburg, pay close attention to Eleven Madison Park alum Erik Ramirez as he pushes Peruvian cuisine forward at Llama Inn. Rooted in the traditional flavors of Peru while playing off the seasonal New York ingredients, Ramirez ensures dish after ambitious dish is imbued with a sense of creativity that lights up the eyes of everyone in the dining room.

The vibe

A lively ambiance that’s lush with botanical and woodsy Peruvian elements.

Don’t miss

While there’s not an official shared plate mandate, it’s heavily advised here. The clam ceviche will have you arguing over who gets to drink from the serving bowl, and the lomo saltado with scallion pancakes is a good enough reason to make up after said argument.

By the way

Industry pioneer and bar director Lynnette Marero will make sure you’ve got top-notch cocktails to enjoy before, during, or after your meal. She makes proper use of the city’s most extensive collection of pisco.

With a winter chill in the air and lights gleaming in the Bergdorf holiday display windows, plan your escape from 5th Avenue’s whipping winds with an unapologetic display of steak. Quality Meats is the jump-off point for acclaimed restaurateur Michael Stillman’s New York expansion. Its commitment to honoring the art of butchery remains the differentiating factor, and for that its regulars are perpetually thankful.

The vibe

A spiffed-up nod to classic NYC butcher shops from an earlier era. It’s rustic, it’s warm, it’s ready for you to roll up your sleeves and order.

Don’t miss

Steaks at Quality Meats are often custom-butchered to suit the needs of the chefs, so you’re in good hands with any cuts of meat ordered. “Let’s go for it” is a helpful attitude here. This can manifest itself through the slab bacon appetizer (flavored with peanut butter and jalapeño). And the QM Tomahawk will be the item that stops dinner conversations, as guests crane their neck to get a look at this behemoth. Adorn the table with classic steakhouse sides for the full experience.

By the way

The holiday spirit is alive and well on the cocktail menu. Sample a festive Quality Nog spiked with rum and Cognac, or settle into the warming flavors of the Home Alone featuring bourbon and cinnamon.

One hundred years after opening its doors — first as a bakery and then as a renowned destination for dim sum — you have to marvel at how owner Wilson Tang has brought Nom Wah into the future. The tea parlor literally put dim sum on the map in New York when it first opened in 1920. Several generations later, not much has changed — except for the better. Don’t be surprised if you circle the block a few times, looking for the half-hidden stub of a block that is Doyers Street. You will be heavily rewarded once you find it.

The vibe

Bustling, with a worn-in charm that holds real history.

Don’t miss

You aren’t walking out of here without eating a concerning amount of dumplings. Any and all of them, really, although the shrimp dumpling with pea leaves is a novel (relative) newcomer. Throw in some scallion pancakes, any variety of rice rolls, and steamed lotus buns for dessert and you’ll have a quintessential Chinatown experience.

By the way

Introduced as an agile 2020 business move, Nom Wah frozen dumplings are available to prepare and enjoy at home. With a wide delivery range in Manhattan and Brooklyn, as well as nationwide shipping via Goldbelly, there will be plenty more dumplings in your future.

No matter what your opinions may be on monarchy, ears are going to perk up when anyone claims to be the “Queen of Soul Food.” But here the royalty in question refers to Sylvia Woods, late matriarch of the Harlem icon Sylvia’s Restaurant. And Woods has more than earned this endearing coronation. After 50 years of homestyle cooking that has delighted everyone from Harlemites to presidents, Sylvia’s is now canon — and as good as ever.

The vibe

A jovial energy and cherished family photos make it feel like you’re being invited into someone’s home. The celebrity endorsements remind you it’s the home of someone who makes remarkable food.

Don’t miss

Embrace the chaos and dig into a plate of Sylvia’s World Famous Talked About Bar-B-Que Ribs. While you’re busy paying homage, you might as well put an order in for Sylvia’s Down Home Fried or Smothered Chicken. Most of the mains come with traditional feel-good sides like Baked Macaroni and Cheese or Collard Greens.

By the way

There’s no better time than now to make a visit to Sylvia’s as the historical landmark reopens after extensive renovations. Swing by and let the family know how good it is to have them back in action.

There’s a time and place for a quiet dinner at the local haunt — and then there’s Dirty French. Major Food Group (the powers behind giants such as Carbone, Sadelle’s, and The Grill) challenged New Yorkers and their grizzled notions about bistros to a completely new take. As the name implies, its menu is driven by French classics while weaving in the most exciting elements from a global range of cuisines. Located just south of the constant hum of Houston Street traffic, Dirty French is the quintessence of Lower East Side energy as it is today.

The vibe

In the bistro family, but with more than a few electric touches (please refer to the neon sign welcoming you).

Don’t miss

Math is usually discouraged during an appetizer course, but the mushroom millefeuille will have you wondering if the chefs took the “thousand layer” direction seriously; use it to sop up the squash curry underneath. The grilled oysters are also a great way to kick things off — and require much less counting.

By the way

If you’re waiting for the rest of your party to arrive, cozy up at The Lobby Bar and depending on how long your fellow diners will be stuck in traffic, you might even have time to advance on them with a few bites from the bar menu.