The October Hit List: Little Lagos, Santa Catarina, Charcoal Fish, and More

In July, Little Lagos appeared to be a casualty of the current lockdown and owner Adetokunboh Adeniyi announced that his eatery would be closing. But Sydney wasn’t giving up on the city’s only Nigerian restaurant so easily: a wave of community support helped give Little Lagos a second life. Don’t take this eatery for granted – head in and order its pepper soup, Nigerian meat pies, egusi, goat stew, snackable fried plaintains and of course, its signature jollof rice.

The Milpa Collective likes to explore the geography of Mexico through its menus: its Sonora eatery is inspired by the country’s northwestern region, while Casa Merida is about the flavours of the Yucatan. New addition Santa Catarina is drawn to Oaxaca: expect takes on the classic teletas (triangular corn pockets) as well as garnachas (ingredient-topped masa discs), months-in-the-making mole and a very select offering of mezcal.

Award-winning chef Josh Niland has taken the charcoal chicken shop concept and given it a sustainable seafood remix with Charcoal Fish. At his newest eatery, he’s using native Murray cod (farmed responsibly in Griffith’s open ponds) and is showcasing virtually every element in resourceful ways – even the cod fat is deployed to roast potatoes. His takeaway-friendly menu is well-timed (no doubt there’ll be many picnics relying on his fish and chips and other menu staples) and diners will likely take advantage of the outlet’s proximity to the beach.

You can get your fix of this Darling Square izakaya via many formats: crank up its playlists, order its beer-celebrating merch, place a takeaway order for pick-up or delivery, or replicate its beloved gyoza and karaage chicken by leafing through the pages of its new book (co-authored by Hello Sandwich’s Ebony Bizys), which pays tribute to the spot in Tokyo that Nakano Darling is named after. Or you can score a seat among its cosy collection of crates and neon signs: the venue is taking October bookings for fully vaccinated diners.

It’s been a year since Ezra started serving Jerusalem bagels and macadamia muhammara. In lockdown mode, its Ezra At Home menus have kicked into gear, offering everything from an Israeli rework of Eton mess, shiitake and smoked mozzarella borekas, and yoghurt and cardamom pannacotta served with basbousa cake. With restrictions lifting, you’ll be able to head back into its breezy courtyard or score a seat by Ben Sears’ open kitchen.

Maiz’s Mexican brunch offering has been creatively reconfigured during lockdown: chef Juan Carlos Negrete’s finish-at-home packs feature everything from adobo-marinated cauliflower with handmade tortillas to chicken enchiladas with a side of cornbread and chipotle honey. The Maiz at the Park box includes guacamole and a 10-chilli oil, fruit wedges seasoned with taijin, your choice of tortas and much more – perfect for taking to Sydney Park or another patch of green nearby. And you’ll soon be able to settle into its Mexican-style courtyard again – just make sure to book ahead for a table.

Alex Ly and his sister Rose were schooled in the art of making dumplings by their Shanghai-born mother. Those skills paid off: they began their Dumplings & Beer empire with a tiny Potts Point restaurant. More outlets have since appeared in the eastern suburbs (Darlinghurst, Randwick), joined by an inner-west outpost in Drummoyne. The menu features xiao long bao, prawn gow gee, chicken dim sum, plus some vego-friendly dumplings (wontons in soup, mushroom gow gee), as well as Asian-inspired sliders and wraps designed to go well with a Tsingtao.

This Italian joint opened just before lockdown, and has presented many compelling reasons for you to drop by. Owners Andrea Nazzari and Valerio Boncompagni are repping their home towns with great dedication: Nazzari is from Milan (hence the saffron risotto) and Boncompagni is from Rome, so there’s a fantastic selection of pinsa (Roman-style pizza) on the menu; stop by and you might scoop up some maritozzi (Roman cream-filled buns) from its weekend market selection of pastries, arancini, porchetta panino and more.

Michael Rantissi and crew have understood the assignment: they’ve kept pivoting through the pandemic in many creative ways at Kepos Street Kitchen. How about a take-home dinner paired with a virtual Lebanese wine tasting? Pop-up collaborations with Tea Craft or Brooklyn Boys? Or branded cooler bags to go with picnic-friendly items from the deli fridge? It’s worth stocking on Kepos Street Kitchen’s golden za’atar pita crisps, smoky eggplant mutabal dip, and milk chocolate and halva mousse, whether you’re heading to the park or plan a night on the couch.

Before there were Beyond Burgers and cafes serving oat or almond milk, there was Iku. The old-school vegan eatery first popped up nearly three decades ago in Glebe and even though the OG outlet is no longer around, the Neutral Bay shopfront remains. You can also get Iku’s macrobiotic meals delivered across Sydney: the classic spinach and eggplant lasagne is available, as is the topselling coconut laksa, plus various pies (like mushroom and lima bean), curries, salads and burgers. The meal packs come in compostable packaging and support sustainable farmers – which is in keeping with Iku’s saintly, eco-friendly vibe.