The August Hit List: Georgia James Tavern, Kata Robata, Haidilao, and More

James Beard award-winning chef Chris Shepherd and his Underbelly group head downtown with this casual version of Georgia James steakhouse, which itself is an offshoot of the successful pop-up One Fifth Steak. The motif here is “timeless food and drinks,” and as such, the menu includes the types of dishes Shepherd and chef de cuisine Matthew “Tally” Coburn love to cook themselves, including cast-iron seared steaks, hearty roasted vegetable salads, and of course, a tavern-style burger made with 44 Farms ground chuck and topped with melty American cheese, smoked onion mayo, pickles, and red onions.

Omakase is back at this acclaimed sushi destination led by four-time James Beard nominee chef Manabu “Hori” Horiuchi. Omakase means “I’ll leave it up to you” in Japanese, and guests can rest assured they’ll get an exceptional dining experience with chef Hori and his team behind the counter. Diners can look forward to a 15-course tasting utilizing the day’s finest ingredients, including delicacies like beautifully marbled bluefin toro topped with fresh Hokkaido uni and caviar, buttery A5 wagyu, and sweet-fleshed gooseneck barnacles.

Never mind that it’s the height of summer and temperatures are scorching. For Houstonians who’ve spent three long years anticipating the debut of this renowned China-based chain, balmy weather is simply no match for an enduring love of spicy, savory, simmering hot pot. Haidilao — once dubbed “the Ferrari of hot pot restaurants” by the late Los Angeles Times critic Jonathan Gold — finally opened its sprawling 6,295-square-foot Houston outpost in May, in the ever-expanding Katy Grand development. The chain boasts hundreds of locations all over the world and built its reputation on over-the-top service. At some locations, for instance, guests can enjoy free mani-pedis and shoeshines while they wait.

Expect premium proteins like Kobe beef, Miyazaki A5 wagyu, and sliced abalone; fresh vegetables; and a variety of noodles — all delivered to your table via a robot server — that you cook yourself in boiling-hot broths that include flavors like classic spicy Sichuan style, vegetarian mushroom, tangy tomato, and Thai tom yum.

Due to high demand, the restaurant requires reservations. Call 832-802-6666 for more info.

This cozy 20-seat CityCentre spot derives its name from the Japanese words sakana and reiki, meaning “divine snacks.” To that end, diners can expect a rotating eight-course tasting menu from chef Thomas Stacy (an Uchi alumnus) with small bites that combine Asian flavors with European gastronomical techniques. Think char siu heritage pork belly served with tart cherry bao, pickled fennel, salted coconut pudding, and marigold flower.

No Houston Hit List would be complete without a barbecue entry, and this month’s pick is already a favorite of smoked-meat enthusiasts across the city. Feges BBQ’s second location made its debut over Father’s Day weekend in the Spring Branch neighborhood, which has been experiencing something of a renaissance in recent years. Pitmaster Patrick Feges and chef Erin Smith opened their original counter in March 2018 inside the food court of the massive Greenway Plaza. The husband-and-wife duo quickly won over the office set (and more) with their impeccably moist brisket, creative burnt end specials (cherry chipotle and pineapple-serrano were recent flavors), and stellar sides. The Spring Branch location offers an expanded menu that includes smoked-before-it’s-fried Southern fried chicken and porcini-crusted hanger steak.

Nearly five years after its 2017 debut, chef Ryan Lachaine’s celebrated Montrose restaurant continues to deliver one of the city’s most exciting menus. (Melt-in-your-mouth bone marrow served with seasonal jam, persillade house pickles, and toasted brioche? Yes, please.) The promotion of executive sous chef Peter Nguyen at the end of 2020 has also ushered in brilliant new creations like the limited-time-only honey walnut crawfish and creamy kimchi carbonara with grilled marinated shrimp, egg yolk, and green onion.

This beloved Galleria-area institution, now led by award-winning chef Robert Del Grande, made an exultant return to the Houston dining scene in late June after a serious kitchen fire forced its month-long closure for renovations. Guests have already returned in full force for the restaurant’s offerings, like the crowd-favorite crab tostadas and the pan-roasted scallops with Gulf shrimp and corn chowder sauce. As an indulgent bonus, splurge on Petrossian caviar service with The Annie’s own recently launched custom Royal White Sturgeon Caviar, harvested by the Berg Hospitality Group’s very own Benjamin Berg.

Call 713-804-1800 for reservations.

Steakhouses abound in Houston but only one uniquely draws inspiration from the owners’ Israeli roots. Doris Metropolitan is rightfully recognized for its premium dry-aged steaks, which are served alongside bright appetizers like the artichoke flower salad and traditional sides like Msabbaha — a hummus-like Levantine staple. The restaurant also consistently won raves for its freshly baked breads, pastries, and custom cakes. And so, they decided to give the people what they wanted, launching Badolina Bakery & Cafe in June. Located in Rice Village, the bakery shares a space with the Doris team’s upcoming modern Israeli restaurant, Hamsa. Badolina will feature Middle Eastern and Israeli baked goods by Doris executive pastry chef Michal Michaeli, including pillowy challah; nutty Kamut loaves with figs, coriander seeds, and a hint of rose; and savory Balkan cheese squares.

Come for the cheeky name, stay for the creative drink menu and delightful bar snacks. This new Lindale Park drinking destination comes from Night Moves, the hospitality group behind island-themed bar and restaurant Space Cowboy. Monkey’s Tail alumni Mathew McEwan and Logan Pollack run the bar menu, which features original concoctions like the Bubblegum Martini (made with Brooklyn gin, “bubblegum broth,” hibiscus, lime, and green chartreuse) and the Grass Choppa (crafted with an amaro blend, spicy Ancho Reyes chile liqueur, heavy cream, mint, and chocolate). Meanwhile, Night Moves partner and culinary director Lyle Bento serves up Mexican-inspired Southern comfort offerings like steak Milanese with mole and crema, and hibiscus tacos with avocado.

This charming restaurant from Venezuelan husband-and-wife team Xavier and Mari Godoy had been open just over a year before COVID-19 interrupted their American dream of bringing globally influenced flavors to the Heights. But with a quick pivot to an online delivery system and a lot of old-fashioned grit, they made it through the worst of pandemic to keep serving much-loved dishes like the Ragu Bolognese served over housemade casarecce pasta and the MAS TexQueño — a thick cylinder of Venezuelan cheese and housemade fried dough served with a side of cilantro sauce.

And somehow, they found time to give back to the community too. In June 2020, Mastrantos teamed up with chef José Andrés’ not-for-profit organization World Central Kitchen to supply thousands of meals to their neighbors at a nearby low-income senior apartment complex. Continuing that spirit of community, this month, Mastrantos joins over 250 restaurants for Houston Restaurant Week, in which a portion of the proceeds goes to the Houston Food Bank.