The October Hit List: Wild Oats, Norigami, Balboa Surf Club, and More

Underbelly Hospitality’s love letter to the Lone Star State relocates this month from its original spot at the Houston Farmers Market to an outpost in Spring Branch, right next to another Underbelly concept, Underbelly Burger’s second location. The move creates space at the market for Comalito, a casual taqueria from the hospitality group and Mexico City-based restaurant group Nixt that promises to bring the flavors of our neighbor to the south to the Bayou City.

Familiar menu items remain at the new Wild Oats, so expect to see the same comforting dishes that celebrate Texas’s culinary history — like wagyu chicken-fried steak smothered in jalapeño bacon gravy, smoky wood-grilled chicken with masa cornbread, and shrimp corn dogs served with tangy picante sauce, among other favorites. Don’t sleep on the spicy-sweet pepper jelly, either, presented over farmer’s cheese that’s perfect for spreading on Texas toast, naturally.

After months of anticipation, the former monthly pop-up project from the Hidden Group (Hidden Omakase and Sushi by Hidden) finally opened its first brick-and-mortar location in late September. And with the launch comes the decadent, overstuffed, signature sushi hand rolls (overseen here by chef Jimmy Kieu) that made Norigami a social media sensation in the first place — think buttery toro; creamy sea urchin; delicate, nutty foie gras; and melt-in-your-mouth wagyu.

Like its sister concepts, Norigami is designed for intimacy, with seating for 24 at a wrap-around counter. The restaurant also houses a speakeasy-style bar — headed by bartender Hao Ma, formerly of Bludorn and Wooster’s — where diners can enjoy a selection of wine, beer, sake, and cocktails while waiting for a seat in the main dining area.

Follow Norigami on Instagram for the latest news.

October is National Seafood Month, and where better to savor the bounty of the Gulf Coast than right by the water. This San Leon hot spot from second-generation oysterman Raz Halili of Prestige Oysters overlooks Galveston Bay and has no shortage of locally sourced seafood dishes for those wanting to indulge. Start with the oysters, of course, which can be served raw on the half-shell or wood-grilled four ways: with grated Parmesan and herb-shallot butter; New Orleans-style Rockefeller and Bienville; crab gratin-stuffed; or topped with garlic, sriracha, and habanero butter. Then move on to customer favorites like the crispy cornmeal-crusted red snapper topped with shrimp etouffee, the pan-seared grouper swimming in charred tomato and coconut sauce, or the piri-piri grilled shrimp served with golden turmeric rice.

Pier 6 is also celebrating its third anniversary this month with its annual weekend-long Halloween bash, from Oct. 28-29. Bring the kids for a candy-filled party complete with live entertainment, food and drink specials, and prizes for best costume.

For seafood in the city, newcomer Balboa Surf Club — from the Western Addition group, which brought Il Bracco to Houston in 2022 — delights with its 1970s beach bungalow vibe and Pacific-inspired menu. Named for Balboa Island, off California’s coast, the restaurant focuses on light, coastal cuisine that includes dishes like grilled wild-caught scallops served over creamed corn with salsa verde, Pacific halibut seared over hardwood, and miso-glazed salmon sourced from Patagonia. A selection of sushi also puts quality seafood on display, with the Alaskan king crab roll and Thai shrimp roll sure to be crowd-pleasers.

The tagline at this Midtown seafood spot is “we’re a little bit classy, and a little bit trashy,” and that unabashed admission is exactly what makes Josephine’s so inviting. Executive chef Lucas McKinney, a Mississippi native, leads the kitchen here, where the eclectic menu takes its cues from up and down the Gulf Coast and aims to pay homage to past generations while also creating new traditions. The chicken on a stick, for example, is a nod to Ole Miss and features deep-fried, pickle-brined chicken thighs that can be dunked in buttermilk ranch. There’s also the Biloxi Vancleave Special, a blue crabmeat melt, which is inspired by a sandwich from Rosetti’s Café in Biloxi. The restaurant recently rolled out brunch, too, where dishes like the orange creamsicle pancakes and honey butter chicken Benedict await.

Of course, we’d be remiss not to include some establishments to visit in honor of Hispanic Heritage Month (and any time, honestly). Tatemó, a James Beard nominee for best new restaurant in 2023, should be on every Houstonian’s radar. The nationally recognized, 13-seat Spring Branch tortilleria — headed by Houston-raised chef-owner Emmanuel Chavez (who was recently named one of America’s best new chefs by Food & Wine magazine) and co-owner Megan Maul — is known for its progressive menu of Mexican-inspired dishes. Heirloom corn from Mexico serves as the star ingredient for the $125 seven-course tasting menu, which treats diners to Chavez’s thoughtful takes on tamales, quesadillas, tacos, and more.

Follow Tatemó on Instagram to stay in the know.

Executive chef and owner Arnaldo Richards’ famous mole-smothered dishes, sizzling fajitas, and pibil-style pork and chicken — a traditional Yucatan peninsula way of cooking in which the meat is marinated in achiote-citrus, wrapped in banana leaves, and then slow-roasted — is what keeps hungry Houstonians returning to Picos after nearly 40 years in business. This fall, the restaurant rolls out some new seasonal bites too, such as savory beef and pork meatballs stuffed with hard-boiled eggs and simmered in a tomato chipotle sauce; and barbacoa tacos featuring slow-roasted beef cheeks and salsa taquera. During the month of October, Picos is also pledging $1 from every signature Pico Rita sold to support The Rose, a nonprofit breast health care organization, in honor of breast cancer awareness month.

Sandwiches and wine are a classic pairing, and Fiora’s Bottle Shop — a charming wine bar in the Montrose Collective mixed-use development from partners Natalie Navi and Amir Sed — is the latest to combine the two. The wide-ranging wine selection spans the globe from California to Japan, and everywhere in between. Meanwhile, the sandwiches are made with deli-style meats and cheeses, the freshest herbs and vegetables, and lively housemade spreads, stacked between slices of Houston’s own Slow Dough bread. The appropriately named GOAT has 18 ingredients alone: genoa salami, mortadella, applewood smoked ham, pepperoni, gabagool (capocollo di calabria), mozzarella, provolone, American cheese, red onion, shredded lettuce, tomato, pepperoncini, extra virgin olive oil, red wine vinegar, mayonnaise, mustard, oregano, and Fiora’s spread — all beautifully arranged on a 14-inch baguette.

Call 346-619-8778 for more info.

From the dry-aged cheeseburger and the luxurious lobster-chicken pot pie to prime rib Wednesdays and monthly fried chicken dinner Tuesdays, there are few things on the menu at chef Aaron Bludorn’s Montrose gem that don’t satisfy. But one dish we keep coming back to is the maitake mushrooms, a seasonal favorite that makes a return this fall. This time, the meaty morsels will be smoked and served in a rich butter-cashew mole sauce with cashew gremolata. They’re arguably the best mushrooms in town.

The South African restaurant chain renowned for its Portuguese peri-peri chicken, which already has locations all over the world, finally opened its first Texas flagship branch in Houston in August — and fans have been flocking to get their fix ever since. Peri-peri (also spelled piri-piri or peli-peli), or African bird’s eye chile, is central to Nando’s famous flame-grilled chicken. Sourced from more than 1,400 farmers across southern Africa, the chile is the main ingredient in the chain’s marinade and signature sauces. The menu offers different flavors and heat levels: xtra hot; hot; medium; lemon herb or mango lime; and what’s called plain…ish, which is the mildest. You can get the flame-grilled peri-peri chicken as a platter, in a bowl, as a sandwich, or in a salad.

Resy’s very own Jon Bonné, award-winning author of the book “The New French Wine,” will be swinging by March on Oct. 3 at 6:30 p.m. for a special evening exploring the world of contemporary French wines and new philosophies transforming French wine culture. The conversation will be paired with a regional menu prepared by chef-partner Felipe Riccio and his team. Fun fact: Riccio also cooked for the book release party of Bonné’s “The New California Wine” back in 2015, where the chef worked for the first time with March partner-master sommelier June Rodil and general manager-beverage director Mark Sayre, bringing everything full circle. There are only a few more days, so book your Resy for this one-night-only event now.