The crew at this Williamsburg mainstay have been keeping up with constant change, not just outdoor seating but also a robust to-go shop for wine and sundries that was an essential changeup during the pandemic’s early days. The thing with Four Horsemen is that, while on paper it might be too cool for all of us, it always ends up defying expectations, in the best way. That’s in no small part thanks to wine director Justin Chearno, who could be expected, given the Grand St. address, to trade only in the sort of unspeakably cool wine that usually require a trip to east Paris and a secret handshake.
But Chearno has always defied that perception, and 4H always has a range of wines on offer that, yes, can appease those who speak fluent sans soufre, but also those with a more classic bent. The retail wine sales, including local delivery, continue, too. (Pro tip: Try the Regnié Biosophiste, cru Beaujolais from up-and-comer Romuald Valot.) And they’ve just launched their own wine club, starting at $40/month. Meeting us wherever and however we’re thirsty is how things are now.
Goyo García Viadero Garcia Georgieva Blanco 2019 ($60/bottle): A skin-contact blend of albillo and malvasia from Spain’s Ribera del Duero, one of those regions the wine world has forgotten — were it not for a handful of avant-garde types like Garcia Viadero. A perfect orange wine for the season.
Ferme de la Sansonnière (Mark Angeli) Rosé d’un Jour 2017 ($78/bottle): Angeli is largely responsible for the Loire’s Anjou region becoming a beachhead for natural wine — having been a mentor to many of its current stars. And it largely goes back to this wine, his take on the (usually not very good) rosé that defined the region until people like him came along.
Floral Terranes Wasteland Cider 2018 ($49/bottle): Erik Longabardi and Benford Lepley are on a mission to save the largely lost orchards and vineyards of Long Island — namely by harvesting of small plantings in backyards and other small parcels, which they turn into naturally fermented ciders. Wasteland is a literal snapshot in time: apples co-fermented with skins from teroldego grapes from Southold Farm + Cellar, which has relocated to Texas.