For a long time, if you came to Bushwick to worship at this pizza altar, you’d be greeted with a quirky, compact one-sheet of a wine list, proportionate to the tight menu (and to it being a pizzeria). That got a step forward when current wine director Kirk Sutherland arrived. Sutherland, who honed his skills at Marlow & Sons and Diner, has long had a knack for rooting out great bottles that evade the usual ideological traps — a bit of New California here, classic Loire rosé there, healthy doses of riesling and chilled reds wines and, yes, orange wines. (Bushwick gonna Bushwick.)
With the temporary closure of sister restaurant Blanca, where Sutherland also is wine director, Roberta’s has received a crazy bounty: a massively expanded list, 200 bottles or more strong, which makes its patio one of the city’s best places to drink right now. Will it last? Who knows, but seeing as pizzerias have become America’s new delivery device for brilliant wine choices (see also Austin’s Bufalina, S.F.’s Del Popolo), we’re hoping it does.
Nicolas Mariotti Bindi Vieillissement Prolongé Vermentinu 2013 ($65): Bindi is one of the new stars of Corsica, and this long-aged white (like, at least 3 years) shows the intense mineral power the island’s vineyards can offer.
A Tribute to Grace Santa Barbara County Rosé 2019 ($60): Sutherland has long been a fan of the talented Angela Osborne, queen of California grenache. And this heady, texturally rich rosé is a particularly good example of the Golden State shining bright.
Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Mosel Pinot Noir 2017 ($56): Yes, pinot, and yes, from Germany’s riesling-riffic Saar Valley. A warming climate means reds are becoming stellar there, too, and Falkenstein’s wines are always sublime.