Bistecca, Employees Only, Bellevue Cottage, New On The Resy Hit List

Like a fleeting holiday romance, there’s something electrifying about the ephemeral thrill of dining at a great pop-up. Full Circle, pop-up restaurateurs par excellence, have converted a former nightclub into one of the city’s most entertaining dining rooms, turning a dancefloor into a place to enjoy elevated, rustic Italian cooking with friends; there’s crisp fried bread with anchovy, sublime plates of pastas, fine wines, and spritz. Drink a little too much, talk a little too loudly, and always order the tiramisu.

Before you eat at Bistecca, you’ll need to find it first. Peek behind an anonymous door in the CBD and descend a nondescript flight of stairs and you’ll find a throwback Italian cocktail bar and restaurant, the newest from the owners of Wild Rover and Grandma’s. Bistecca all Fiorentina—the T-bone steak of Tuscan legend—is their speciality and sole main course, accompanied by small plates, aperitivi, and an Italian-focused wine offering curated by Saint Peter alum Alice Massaria.

The Three Blue Ducks’ first foray into bar territory, Locura’s minimal, industrial design evokes the cool, subterranean bars of Mexico City from which it takes visual inspiration. Purpose-built  for late-night drinking, the bar leans into the Latin vibe with an early evening bar menu of fried corn, oysters, ceviches and tostadas, brought to life with house-made salsas and hot sauces. Stick around for nocturnal cocktails and weekend music sessions, curated by producer and DJ Jono Ma.

There are places to be seen, and then there’s Antoine Moscovitz’s new spot in Glebe. He’s converted the historic Bellevue Cottage on the waterfront into a sumptuous bistro, replete with a French-leaning menu to match the bucolic setting. As you’d expect from the Ducasse-trained chef, refinement and attention to detail is a given, and it’s quite the location for a long lunch with plenty of champagne and cocktails. Oh, and the restaurant also has its own water limousine if you fancy a mid-meal tour—natch.

A welcome addition to Chippendale’s burgeoning dining scene, former Becasse chef James Metcalfe brings a Michelin pedigree to a lighter, more relaxed setting at Saint George. A stylish, modern all-day restaurant, it serves satisfying salads and sandwiches at lunch, while there’s a sophisticated wine and cocktail list for the post-work wind-down. The chef’s English heritage shines in a standout dish of omelet Arnold Bennett with delicate smoked fish, while the headline smoked wagyu brisket hash is worthy of the hype.

Retro Sicilian posters and vintage accents adorn the walls and tabletops at Caffe Bortolo, an all-day Italian diner from the owner of Kittyhawk and Big Poppa’s. Shifting gears from bars to full-service dining, owner Jared Merlino’s first solo venture is a win for Crown Street—by evening, it’s a buzzing trattoria and cocktail bar perfect for grabbing some handmade pasta and seafood, while by day, it’s a perfect spot for perching on the pavement and people-watching with an icy coffee granita.

While the term ‘neighbourhood restaurant’ means something a little different in Surry Hills, new casual fine dining spot Arthur is just too good for non-locals to ignore. Chef Tristan Rosier and his team serve a delicious, constantly evolving set menu that’s prepared with uncompromising attention to detail and effortless finesse. The food has a pronounced New Nordic vibe, but the majority of ingredients (and wine list) lean Australian.

After the shenanigans of Mr Liquor’s Dirty Italian Disco, the Tennyson Hotel—specifically its drive-in bottle shop—acquired a rep as a space perfect for hosting some of Sydney’s most fun restaurant residencies. Kingdom of Rice, its newest occupant, continues in that vein with an offering of modern Cambodian Street food, courtesy of the Acme team. A knowingly kitsch space (think mismatched furniture and clashing colours) is the perfect setting to enjoy sizzling skewers of grilled meat, sharing plates, and copious amounts of natural wine and beer.

Hidden in a heritage listed, semi-hidden basement near George Street, Sydney’s outpost of Employees Only—the storied, legendary NYC speakeasy—is every bit as good as its reputation suggests. Run by Dushan Zaric (one of the guys who set up the original), expect precise, sharp service and beautifully crafted cocktails made at the bar’s handsome, brass-topped bar. Thanks for a new late license, the bar stays open until 3am most nights, and there’s a full dinner menu and an snacks list available throughout the night.

One of last year’s greatest hits, Continental Deli in Newtown seduced all-comers with its slick, contemporary take on the humble continental deli. Its new outpost in the CBD is just as good—by day, there’s high-end charcuterie, cheeses, and quality conservas (tinned fish, including varieties the shop cans itself using local fish). Come evening, the space morphs into a relaxed, convivial wine bar that dishes out simple but high quality seafood and pastas to accompany its stash of fine wine, sherry and cocktails.