Where to Drink Natural Wine in Sydney

Burgundy leather booths, wooden tables and exposed brick piece together this intimate bistro. Be it for French fare from industry idols Nik Hill and Harry Levy (ex-Don Peppino’s, Sepia, Quay and The Old Fitz) or a glass of skin-contact orange wine – there’s much to love here. Alternatively, pop into P&V, their natural wine shop downstairs, and bring it to your table while you savour duck pâté and brandy and scallop vol-au-vent. Come early and stay late at this Lyon-meets-Montréal bouchon-like affair. Oui, s’il tu plait!

With a high energy vibe, 10 William St does it all – and does it very well. Owned by the same brothers as Fratelli Paradiso, this beloved establishment takes chef Trisha Greentree’s elegant regional Italian fare and pastas as a foundation for an array of dazzling small plates. The world-class wine list is as concise as it is thoughtful, and leans towards natural bottles from Italy and France with the odd Australian drop written up on a chalkboard each day. With approachable advice from the front of house, both seasoned drinkers and novices can lean into a session easily, while there’s plenty by the glass if you’re dropping in for a quick drink.

Sambol lovers unite – this Darlinghurst institution is a place for texture, spice, and tradition. The menu is inspired by Sri Lankan flavours with a focus on hoppers, a delicate, lacey pancake made from a fermented batter of rice flour and coconut milk. With crispy edges and a pillowy centre, they’re a perfect vessel for daals and curries. Chef O Tama Carey draws upon an eclectic, global playbook but sticks firmly to her Sri Lankan heritage. The slender space is ideal for couples or small groups. Have a glass (or two) from a short but sweet list that leans towards natural bottles, chosen to celebrate makers who treat their land with care.

Bringing Sephardic and Ashkenazi Jewish flavours to Potts Point, this buzzy Tel Aviv-inspired restaurant bursts with delectable flavours, courtesy of chef Ben Sears (ex-Paper Bird and Moon Park). Inside, there’s a striking space with olive trees, mosaic archways and an idyllic courtyard for warm weather. Try the spanner crab falafel or the burrata with watermelon, zucchini and zoug. In fact, try everything – execution is some of the most consistent in town. There’s an approachable list of natural wines that’s ideal for novices, from juicy pét-nats to orange wines as well as some nostalgic bottles.

With its new home on Oxford Street, Café Freda’s has transformed into a bar and chic diner. Xinyi Lim’s all-day café dishes are laced with Asian influences, from nashi pear in a Panzanella, to a comforting shiitake and sweet corn congee with soy egg. Sliding doors and a lick of marigold paint allow plenty of sunshine to pour through; meanwhile, drinks are just as lush, with natural wines selected by head somm Darcy Greenaunce Ellis, covering everything from crisp, gluggable roses to a refreshing ‘Patta Trava’ pét-nat from Bowral-based Ari’s – perfect for people watching and making the most of the iconic Taylor Square location.

Conceived by chef Tristan Rosier (ex-Est and Biota), the produce-driven tasting menu at this inviting Surry Hills restaurant is a journey of divine proportions. Start with snacks of oyster and finger lime, followed by elegant plates like a tartare of ocean trout with grapefruit, capers and roe, and a fillet of John Dory with pumpkin and marigold. The restaurant collaborates with zero-intervention Australian producers on its wine list, like a crisp ‘Tangerine Dream’ Semillon from Smallfry. A marble bar centres the space, which feels magical at the right hour of the day.

Woodfired pizza, fresh pasta, craft beer and natural wines that range from textural oranges to rosé – it’s the whole package at Dimitris, which presents like a slice of old Italy in Darlinghurst. It’s the details here that lift this favourite above the pack: One hundred percent sourdough bases guarantee a blistered pillowy cornicione, adorned with bright, fresh ingredients like zucchini flowers or aged Parmigiano Reggiano. Even the honey comes from the family farm.

At this Newtown institution, chef-owner Claire Van Vuuren’s food feels as fresh and relevant as ever. Having ditched fine dining to fulfil her own vision of an accessible, fun-driven restaurant, her restaurant’s regulars return for fried chicken with wombok and polenta chips with gorgonzola sauce, while the strength of her cocktail is complemented with a short natural wine list that champions the best small producers and winemakers in Australia and abroad. A moody, narrow space with exposed brick and recycled furnishings adds to the homegrown, unpretentious vibe. Raucous and a guaranteed good time.

Whether you catch a ferry or not, a meal at Busta is a fun ride. At this cosy Northern Beaches bistro, perfectly al dente pasta is the main draw, its texture in part due to the kitchen’s use of Berkelo flour from neighbouring Brookvale. Owner Luke Miller also owns Winona, a natural wine shop next door, and the restaurant continues in the tradition, with gluggable bottles (with an Italian focus) ideal for pairing with generous plates of brimming with pasta, antipasti, and tiramisu.