How Brindille Has Become an Essential Chicago Classic
Carrie Nahabedian is proudly old school. Quotes from Julia Child and Charlie Trotter grace the menu at Brindille, her elegant French restaurant in River North.
The restaurant has a jewel box dining room that feels like a seductive whisper with a Parisian accent. In a contemporary restaurant circus where novelty, head-scratching “fusion” food, and over-the-top dishes made for Instagram ostensibly reign supreme, Nahabedian remains steadfastly true to her classic French roots, with excellent sauces and precise plating, entirely unbothered by the latest trends.
If you need reminding, Nahabedian won the 2008 James Beard Foundation Award for the Great Lakes before Chicago ever had a Michelin guide, and her first restaurant, Naha, held a Michelin star for seven consecutive years before she closed it in 2018. Brindille, for some mysterious reason, has flown relatively under the radar in comparison, but the food here is as delicate and delicious as ever.
The menu reads like a Lucullan list of greatest hits perfected over decades, including glazed veal sweetbreads, lacquered aged moulard duck breast, seared foie gras, Joël Robuchon potatoes, and Julia Child-inspired whole European dover sole meunière. Prized seasonal ingredients pop up too, like golden chanterelle mushrooms and a rich pumpkin soup with duck confit for autumn.
We caught up with Nahabedian to chat about her timeless style, her restaurant, her influences, and much more.
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Would you say that Julia Child is one of your greatest culinary influences?
Julia Child is every chef’s mentor in one way or another. Her style, force of dedication to French cuisine, and groundbreaking cooking that led to a TV show and more can be admired by all. I used to race home from grade school to watch Julia on PBS cook something so fabulous. Having met her on many, many occasions over my career, she is exactly like you would have expected her to be – down to earth, wholesome, intelligent, and funny.
Do you think classical French cuisine is underappreciated in Chicago and the United States?
Yes, it is underappreciated, and it’s become homogenized. Society has taught the public that French cuisine means fancy, expensive, special occasion only, and indulgent. But the French dine everyday on exceptional food like the Spaniards, Italians, and Nordic cultures! It’s all how you have been taught and educated.
I am very true to the technical aspects of French cooking. You have to be true to the school. If you’re going to cook French, then cook French, and not some watered-down pedestrian version of French cuisine. I can’t stand inconsistency. I can’t stand repetition on menus. A menu is a reflection of your personality, style, and talent. It should be exciting to read, cook, and serve.
How has the River North neighborhood changed over the past few decades? You opened Naha in 2000 and Brindille is only a couple blocks away from Naha’s former location, so you’ve been a staple of the neighborhood for a quarter century now.
River North has changed dramatically. Some good and some bad. There’s crime of course, and it’s incredibly difficult with street and sidewalk closures for the valet and parking. We most definitely need more retail and not just restaurants. People love to shop and dine and be entertained. River North is evolving every year. It would be nice to have more independent businesses.
If you’re going to cook French, then cook French, and not some watered-down pedestrian version of French cuisine.
You are famously the first woman chef in Chicago to earn a Michelin star, which you held for seven years at Naha. Do you feel that Brindille has been snubbed by Michelin?
In the first couple years, it bothered me, but now I couldn’t care less. I’d rather have a busy restaurant and happy staff and customers than worry about the star. I’m very proud of the accolades at Naha and also at Brindille. Having a star would be great for the young cooks, but everyone else at Brindille was part of the Naha reign. I would be happier if the Chicago Tribune brought back a food critic and full color weekly Food section!
How has the food evolved over the years? And do you think the food is better now than ever before?
My cuisine evolves with my personal style. I truly love to cook every day. As a chef-restaurateur, I believe nothing is more important than giving your best every day to your staff and clients. We are creating food memories—an experience that they will remember. My favorite thing to hear is, “I don’t know what to order!” It means I’ve done my job. Create a menu that speaks volumes about seasonality, talent, experience, and style. Never chase a trend, because it is like a snake, it just keeps moving until it finds the next warm place and moves on.
You have had the same core team – yourself, your cousin Michael and pastry chef Craig Harzewski – for as long as I can remember. How long have the three of you worked together? Restaurants are famous for being high turnover, so the longevity of your team is also really special.
Naha and Brindille lasted as long as they have due to Michael’s and my extreme dedication to success and for leading the team so we all succeed together. Craig Harzewski is a major force of talent and extremely humble and genuine. We all get along great because of mutual respect, admiration, and professionalism. I always say, if the house doesn’t make money then no one makes money. Our staff has our best interests at heart and are very protective of our family and business. Trust works both ways.
The longevity of our staff makes us so proud. We treat everyone well. We are always there for them. It’s a difficult time right now for servers. Everyone wants to delve into their tips and service. Our staff are extremely happy.
What sort of policies need to be implemented locally and nationally to ensure that restaurants can survive and thrive?
The problem with our industry is very complicated. No president is going to change it no matter what they say. We were all saved by the various programs during the pandemic crisis. Thankful for that.
Wages go up, so costs go up. Simple as that. Look at menu prices in New York, Miami, and Dallas. Shocking. Absolutely shocking. But the restaurants are packed. Despite $30 cocktails and $150 steaks.
Chicago has been extremely slow to recover from the pandemic, and it’s a result of our city not doing enough to bring back businesses to Michigan Avenue and downtown. Our current mayor has alienated himself from being big on business … He needs to stop allowing jobs and companies from leaving. Solve the crime issues. Make our restaurant clients feel comfortable coming in from the suburbs and surrounding neighborhoods. Relax a bit on the valets, don’t be so aggressive with ticketing. Quit raising the sales tax and occupancy taxes on restaurants and hotels. Go after cigarettes instead.
I love Chicago, the restaurant community, and being a chef—but it’s an extremely hard profession. You have to be passionate about it to succeed.
Amber Gibson is a journalist specializing in travel, food, and wine. Her work has appeared in Departures, Food & Wine, Saveur, Bon Appétit, and Travel + Leisure. Follow her here; follow Resy, too.
