Bay Area Chefs Share What Makes the Bay Area So Special

With so many challenges facing the hospitality industry in general and the Bay Area in particular, what’s motivating you to keep building your business and community here?

Fernay McPherson, Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement: Though the restaurant industry may be discouraging right now,  Minnie Bell’s journey is far from over. The expansion to San Francisco symbolizes a new chapter of growth and drive to continue. With passion, determination, and the support of community, Minnie Bell’s will undoubtedly carve its place as a beloved and iconic restaurant in San Francisco, further solidifying its impact in the industry. 

Dontaye Ball, Gumbo Social: The Bayview is a special place to me. It needs and deserves to be noticed. When I looked at our current landscape of chefs and hospitality professionals, I felt like I needed to be the person to pick up the torch and highlight the community that I know and love. “If you can make it in New York, you can make it anywhere” as the saying goes, but I say, “If you can create an incredible restaurant in the Bayview, you can do it anywhere.”

I want to invest in my community, my people, and the people who love Gumbo Social. I’m from Bayview, and feel it’s important to shout out the other restaurants that paved the way for me like Auntie April’s, Tato, Yvonne’s Southern Sweets, Gratta Wines, and of course, Frisco Fried, who was in our location for many years before we took over.

Geoff Davis, Burdell: Oakland is such a special place. There is so much history here. So much Black history. The ship-building opportunities, the Black Panther Party, the gospel and soul music of the ’60s and ’70s, the genre-bending hip hop of the ’80s and ‘90s. Oakland has a resilient, honest spirit. It does not pretend to be something it’s not. There’s opportunity here. There’s hustler spirit. It’s home. 

Nelson German, AlaMar and Sobre Mesa: Amazing question. For me, one of the keys to keep going is the community. You know, what really made me fall in love with Oakland and the Bay Area is a sense of community. Here, it’s truly a melting community where people are living together in these neighborhoods — and just the pride for The Town. The grassroots culture that Oakland has long had in history is still there, even with all the craziness going on. So, a lot of us are hanging in there to really keep building that community, keep giving back, and keep people coming to Oakland.

Francis Ang, Abacá: Yes, tourism has been down, offices have not returned to normal, and some crime rates are going up. The Bay Area industry definitely has been facing a good amount of challenges. At the end of the day, my team — or what we call the Abacá pamilya— has a drive and passion that motivates me to keep pushing. Also, our guests tell us that we make Filipinos proud. Being able to share our cuisine to the unfamiliar and represent the Philippines is an honor for me. 

The food culture of the region has inspired movements, homages, and knockoffs around the country for generations now. What still makes the Bay Area so special?

Reem Assil, Reem’s: I think a lot of folks of my generation who were lost, especially if you don’t fit the mold of mainstream America, find their way to the Bay. The culture here is deep and rooted in struggle and fighting for a different version of society where all cultures are celebrated and integrated.

It’s a place where people can express themselves fully and be allowed to live in their contradictions. That is certainly why I, as an Arab woman who was questioning everything and learning about the intersections of my identity, felt at peace here. And I was able to express that through the restaurant by sending a clear message [about] “your tropes and your misconceptions about Arab food” even for my own people. I am expressing my lineage but also my deep love for California. And I think a lot of people from different cultures can resonate with that and end up expressing themselves the same way. That’s why you see the realness here. The culture is deep and sometimes it’s multilayered and may not even make sense at first glance — but it’s organic.  Everybody is either mixed and/or grew up in Black, Latinx, and Asian neighborhoods and express a lil’ bit of all of it — and it’s completely normal!

Dontaye Ball: It’s home to me. That’s why it’s special. We are so fortunate to have proximity to local farmers and a wealth of creative and artisan food makers. Plus, the music scene is incredible, and our culture is amazing. People are still rooted here.

Selasie Dotse, e le aɖe Test Kitchen: In my experience, the Bay Area offers an unparalleled abundance of fresh produce that truly sets it apart from other regions in the country. What makes this place so unique is its diverse range of micro- and macro-climates, which provide local farmers with the opportunity to cultivate an astonishing variety of crops. Whether it’s the mild coastal areas, the warmer valleys, or even the highland regions, you can find just about anything your culinary heart desires right here. This exceptional access to a wide array of locally grown fruits, vegetables, and herbs not only fuels this vibrant food scene but also allows for a deeper connection to the land and the seasons in our culinary endeavors.

Fernay McPherson: One of the joys of exploring the Bay Area’s food scene is stumbling upon those hidden gems tucked away in unassuming neighborhoods. These family-owned and operated establishments often pass down secret recipes from generation to generation, ensuring that the flavors remain true to their cultural origins. I believe we celebrate the authenticity of different cultures and childhood memories through a diverse range of food options. Everyone’s story in food starts at childhood.

Francis Ang: We are spoiled with the best farms in the world. There is nothing more exciting than going to the farmers’ market and tasting fruits and greens, and their textures and flavors. Seasonality is a big basis on how we create our menu.  Being able to cook with the seasons and combine with Filipino cuisine is a blessing.

Nelson German: We have so much with these beautiful farms and ranches. That’s a privilege we have here. But what’s really the most special? In Oakland especially is the diversity, not just in the people, but the food: There are so many beautiful restaurants that have opened up that are all different. Especially many of us Black chefs are showcasing that whole diaspora. AlaMar is now a Dominican restaurant and I am showcasing that we are Black people, and we come from the Afro-Latino diaspora.

Who or what in the area is inspiring your creativity right now? Where are you eating or drinking that you are excited about?

Reem Assil: I think watching chefs like Fernay McPherson go back to her home of Fillmore and open a fried chicken and bubbles joint is really inspiring. Chef Geoff Davis opening Burdell and giving homage to his roots in the most humble and beautiful way is inspiring. Chef Nelson German going back to his Dominican Roots at AlaMar. I love folks like chef Intu-On cooking the most flavor packed food at Jo’s Modern Thai.  I love seeing so many more collaborations — the synergy between cultures and the stories that get shared and connections that get felt through dinner collabs and folks hosting others at their restaurants is amazing.

Geoff Davis: I love the small spots here in Oakland.  The banh mi shop, the old school Giant Burger joints. Tacos Parilla Loca is one that I think about often. It’s a tent and a truck. But they are grilling meat over coals, and serving it so simply but with so much care. You can taste the passion in the details. It’s inspiring to see the hustle. Also, I am always excited to have a meal and wine at Great China in Berkeley. It’s a special place run by a great friend. And the wine list is insane and the food is so dialed in.

Selasie Dotse: In the vibrant culinary landscape of the Bay Area, chef Nelson German of Sobre Mesa and AlaMar ingeniously weaves an Afro-Diasporic story through his craft, using both cocktails and cuisine to captivate guests. Geoff Davis invokes the power of nostalgia by showcasing his family’s cherished recipes at Burdell, creating an intimate and personal connection with his customers. Peaches Patties in San Francisco deserves commendation for delivering top-notch Jamaican cuisine. Shani Jones, the owner, crafts a mouthwatering beef patty that evokes the essence of Jamaican restaurants on the East Coast.

They have been instrumental in my decision to spotlight African cuisine. Their restaurants serve as compelling platforms for sharing the rich narratives of Black food, a perspective not often seen in this region.

Francis Ang: First is my team. I am inspired by their passion and creativity. Second, the Bay Area has so many talented chefs pushing the envelope. The food they put out is some of the best in the country. I am constantly learning from their outlook towards food and the industry.

Clay Williams is a Brooklyn-based photographer whose work takes him across the country and beyond, documenting stories of food, culture, and community. Follow him at @ultraclay.