The Resy Hit List: Everywhere In L.A. You’ll Want to Eat in February 2024

Photo courtesy of Baroo

When chef Kwang Uh and Mina Park unveiled their third iteration of Baroo last summer, the fermentation-driven Korean restaurant looked strikingly different from its previous stripped-down (as in, strip mall) versions. The couple took their time revamping and refining. As a result, the Baroo of today is remarkably warm for a dining destination, and continues to dish out some of Los Angeles’ most innovative food. Upon arrival, each diner is presented with a beautifully engraved box bearing chopsticks, a seven-course menu of seasonally-informed dishes, and the option to add a beverage pairing. For $110 a head, it’s a steal that everyone living in (or visiting) Los Angeles should take advantage of.

In some ways, Anajak is a typical family-run Valley Thai restaurant, with its papaya salad and pad Thai. In other ways, Anajak feels like it’s from a different universe, capturing the city’s zeitgeist like few others. The à la carte menu, served on colorful, floral-printed tablecloths, features pork laab in meatball form, Southern Thai fried chicken (with an optional caviar supplement), and Dungeness crab-laced fried rice. An awe-inspiring wine collection is on display, tucked into nooks and crannies. On Thai Taco Tuesdays, Mexican-inspired snacks served in the restaurant’s side alley amend the regular menu; and on the last weekend of each month, omakase reservations are up for grabs. Second-generation chef-owner Justin Pichetrungsi has transformed L.A.’s relationship with Thai food, and the Anajak success story has practically written itself.

This tiny Armenian take-out joint in Glendale, run by the Martirosyan family, specializes in revelatory kabobs, from yogurt-marinated chicken thigh shish to lule kabobs hand-shaped into tender divots. These come over absorbent basmati rice with a puddle of silky hummus, a tangle of white onion and parsley, and fire-roasted tomatoes and jalapeños. Better yet, husband-and-wife Ovakim, Alvard, and their son Armen treat every customer like an old friend. Do note that Mini Kabob requires planning: call ahead to place your order, bring cash, then eat your food as quickly as possible while it’s still hot. (The trunk of your car is well-suited to this purpose.)

No reservations. Find more info here.

Only in Los Angeles does a cheffy Indian sports bar in a Silver Lake strip mall make sense. Namely because L.A. is home to Avish Naran, an Indian kid from Echo Park who grew up on wings, pizza, the Dodgers, and the Lakers, and who as an adult combined those passions into the whirlwind that is Pijja Palace. The chef at the helm is Miles Shorey, an ideal match for bringing Naran’s personal history to the plate. His crispy dosa batter-fried onion rings, crushable aloo tiki sliders, and spicy Goan sausage-topped pies are unlike anything you’ve had before. Come with an appetite, revel in the game-time energy, and make sure to ask about off-menu specials.

L.A.’s proliferation of wine bars feels, perhaps, a bit overplayed right now. Which is why when Stir Crazy opened on Melrose Ave last May, its open-ended spirit of a European cafe was alluring. And yet owner Mackenzie Hoffman’s wide-ranging, producer-focused wine list is a big part of the draw. So is the sensational, ever-changing snacky fare, including a dynamite celery salad with walnuts, goat cheese, and golden raisins and a single sausage with Weiser potato salad and a dollop of spicy mustard. The people-watching is equally strong; come here for an in-between moment or a lingering catch-up with friends.

The #19 sandwich at Langer’s is a rite of passage for … well, for nearly everyone. Pastrami, which the 77-year-old deli brines, smokes, and steams in-house, is complemented with Swiss cheese, coleslaw, and Russian dressing on rye. It is excellent. Still, the famed sandwich is only part of the appeal at this old-school MacArthur Park institution. There’s also the steamy matzo ball soup station, the crinkle-cut French fries, and the lifelike paintings that date back to 1968, to name a few more. Langer’s will never change, and it never should.

No reservations. Find more info here.

First came Cafe Telegrama, a sleek daytime café with Instagram-candy ricotta pancakes and a fancy take on the tuna melt. Then, at the tail end of 2023, its next-door sister restaurant arrived: a handsome Italian joint with an approachable menu that spans crudo and burrata, six pastas, sea bream with salmoriglio, roast chicken, and steak for two. The formula behind Étra — intimate environs, a sultry atmosphere, and a roster of crowd-pleasing dishes — adds up to exactly the kind of contemporary restaurant that Los Angeles seems to love right now. It’s unfussy, tasty, and stylish, and sure to be mobbed once words gets out. 

Family-owned Mandarin Noodle House has been dishing out sheafs of flaky scallion pancakes and resplendent bowls of Taiwanese beef noodle soup — with hand-pulled noodles, of course — since 1978. At one point there were four outposts, from Chinatown to the Valley. Now, the Monterey Park location, overseen by third-generation owner Denny Mu, is the last one standing. (You can’t miss its bright orange-and-red tiled exterior while driving down West Garvey Ave.) Beyond those pancakes and that noodle soup, don’t miss the garlicky cucumber salad, pan-fried pork dumplings, and pork chop over rice.

No reservations. Find more info here.

There is no shortage of first-rate Mexican food in this town. However, Mexican fine dining is still a rarity, which is why the arrival of globally acclaimed chef Enrique Olvera was a very welcome one, indeed. At his elegantly adorned Damian, the Arts District is made to feel like Mexico City, with high ceilings, concrete slabs, leafy plants, and the like. The margaritas are top-tier and the agave spirits collection is chock full of cool finds. And the food? Inventive, stunning, delicious. Uni tostadas are topped with Caesar salad. Lobster gets al pastor treatment, with pineapple butter. And for dessert, the hibiscus merengue is Instagram gold.

Let the swarm of people surrounding the entrance on a typical Friday at noon be an indication of the enduring — and warranted — popularity of Sushi Gen. This Little Tokyo institution sits somewhere in between a luxury omakase counter and a neighborhood sushi restaurant, a sweet spot that makes it a go-to for sushi-loving Angelenos. Since 1980, its team of sushi chefs have worked in lockstep to cater to diners at the counter, rattling off fish types, as well as bigger parties seated at tables, dishing piece after piece of fresh fish over rice. Order scallop nigiri, toro, and ikura, plus whatever else in the case is looking good.

No reservations. Find more info here.

Simón is a newer addition to our vibrant Mexican street food scene — and already has proved its worth among the top-tier taco stands and food trucks with its wildly inventive and ultra-fresh seafood offerings. Oaxacan taquero Francisco Aguilar parks his truck adjacent to Silver Lake’s Sunset Triangle Plaza every Tuesday through Sunday. He does an al pastor taco with fish, the requisite slice of pineapple, and grilled and crispy onions; plus seasonal specials like fried soft-shell crab with a spicy, funky chintextle aioli. And his negro aguachile — raw shrimp drenched in a marinade of smoked tomatillo, lime juice, habanero, garlic, and Worcestershire — is utterly delicious.

No reservations. Find more info here.

Photo courtesy of Lasita

Lasita is the rare restaurant that feels both celebratory and casual. Its orange-tinted glow, bouncy naturalish wine list, and chummy service make for a reliable date spot and an easy go-to for dinner with friends. Furthermore, even in a time when practically every menu is “designed to be shared,” there’s a uniquely communal energy to digging in to Lasita’s luscious pork belly lechon and lemongrass-scented chicken inasal, alongside sizzling mushroom sisig and craveworthy vegetable pancit.

Think of it as the anchor restaurant to Chinatown’s new wave, which also includes cool-kid wine bar Cafe Triste, Asian-American superette Sesame, and bakery kiosk Laroolou, the latter of which is responsible for Lasita’s must-order calamansi cream pie.

In a city brimming with salads, Tsubaki’s Japanese Caesar — laced with bonito threads, nori, panko, and miso-parmesan dressing — is a strong contender for the best. Their charcoal-grilled chicken oyster skewers, dabbed with yuzu kosho, are a bona fide signature L.A. dish. Simply put, chef Charles Namba’s food at this compact Echo Park izakaya is consistently dynamite. But the sake list adds a whole new dimension: Namba’s partner is Courtney Kaplan, whose sake expertise and dedication to craft breweries is showcased here and at next-door sake bar, Ototo — whose sake program was the first to win a James Beard award. Take your time reading Kaplan’s descriptions; “sake whisperer” doesn’t even begin to describe her work. 

Make a reservation here.

Weather, produce, lifestyle, nature. These are some of the most common factors that drive people to Los Angeles, and All Time embodies all of them. Citrus and fig trees line the perimeter of the entirely outdoor dining room, part of which is fashioned like a greenhouse. Simple, satisfying California cooking is served all day, starting with an exemplary berry scone and an expertly crafted breakfast burrito in the morning, followed by an enormous leafy salad (appropriately dubbed the “Good Ass Salad”), burrata toast, crispy fish over rice, and lots of wine in the evening. Bonus: All Time is also minutes away from the entrance to Griffith Park, making it a wonderful place to unwind after a hike.

Old-school spots that ooze Hollywood glamor are crucial to the culinary makeup of Los Angeles. While there’s no shortage of contenders — Dan Tana’s, Colombo’s, and The Smoke House all come to mind — the granddaddy of them all is the century-old Musso & Frank, smack-dab in the middle of Hollywood. Red tuxedo jacket-clad bartenders here dole out stiff martinis with sidecars on ice; and the food is more than passable, so long as you know what to get. (Stuffed celery, Musso-Frank special salad, rigatoni vodka, steak fries, and the 1919 sundae is the correct order, trust us.)

Call 323-467-7788 for more info.

News that a Kismet cookbook is arriving this spring is a testament to this Los Feliz restaurant’s status as a new classic. On a prime stretch of Hollywood Boulevard, chef-owners Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson cook Middle Eastern cuisine with a strong California bent in a welcoming, bright space, with pops of color everywhere. Over the course of its seven years in business, Kismet has become known for a few signatures, including Persian crispy rice with an oozing egg yolk nestled inside, and lemony chicken and pine nut hand pies. Start with a glass of wine, the marinated feta, and an order of malawach to set the tone.

Chef Aaron Lindell and pastry whiz Hannah Ziskin are a culinary couple that compliment one another quite well. Case in point: Quarter Sheets, their pizza and cake restaurant that puts childlike joy front and center. The pizza is crunchy-crispy, chewy, and high on flavor —  loosely inspired by the pies of Detroit, but really, it’s Lindell’s own Los Angeles-style invention. (Quarter Sheets serves bar pies, too, on Wednesdays and Sundays.) The cakes come in Princess and seasonal slab form, alongside other ever-rotating desserts, like ice cream and pie. Both Lindell and Ziskin are masters of their craft, and their pairing is about as perfect as it gets. 

No reservations. Find more info here.

Photo courtesy of Alta Adams

“California soul food” is how chef Keith Corbin describes his cooking here, which pulls from West Africa, the South, and Los Angeles itself. That translates to cornbread with honey butter, spicy purple sweet potato soup, fried chicken with Fresno hot sauce, and oxtails and rice, in the tight-knit community of West Adams. The dining room is cozy and warm, with colorful printed pillows to lean on, and art curated by next-door gallery Band of Vices. Cocktails are a highlight, too, including a “teenie tini flight” of three 1.5 oz. martinis, and a Cognac-based sour with candied yam syrup and spiced sweet potato liqueur.

If you can judge a Korean restaurant by its banchan, then Western Doma Noodles scores a 10/10. Each small dish is better than the next. And then what? Start with an order of fried vegetable dumplings, then get the restorative chicken ginseng soup, which features an entire Cornish game hen stuffed with rice, or a platter of gochujang-laced chicken stew. Owner Mi Ok Baik is a hospitality pro and works the room with warm efficiency, taking orders, stirring soups, and grabbing more rounds of Hite. Her tables are made of lacquered hunks of wood, her floors are checkered blue and white, and her vibe is convivial, further proof that the best things in L.A. are often found in strip malls.

No reservations, no website. Find more info here.

Think “sensational sustainable seafood served on a Santa Monica sidewalk,” and you get a pretty good sense of Crudo e Nudo (and a tongue-twister). Chef Brian Bornemann and Leena Culhane operate their ambitious restaurant from a tiny storefront with a compact kitchen, taking orders at the register and serving dishes that punch way above their weight to diners on the patio. The menu changes based on what’s freshest (and what’s being caught locally), but always includes plenty of crudo, a terrific tuna tartare toast with onion confit and yuzu, and finger-licking diavola prawns a la plancha. Pro-tip: Order the five-course Neptune’s Flight and let the kitchen lead the way.