Where To Eat in May: Maene, Joké and Friends, Story Cellar, and More

Noble Rot is the rare establishment that manages to feel timeless while being, in fact, quite new. This wine bar and restaurant has distinguished itself with a potent blend of excellent cooking, one of London’s most accomplished wine lists, accessibility (its set lunch menu and bar are irresistible), and by running a restaurant the old-fashioned way, with its front of house among the city’s best. Their newest site, in Mayfair’s atmospheric Shepherd Market, has all of these hallmarks, along with an intimate split-level dining room and a Modern European menu courtesy of chef Adam Wood (ex-Perilla, The Square), whose flair for the classics translates to dishes like lamb neck navarin, Anjou pigeon with peas and morels, or a whole roasted duck with silky sauce Chambertin for two to share.

For reservations, call +44 (0) 207 101 6770.

Chef Joké Bakare is widely acknowledged as one of London’s greatest new culinary talents, with an eye for detail and a sophisticated palate that she applies to West African cuisine at Chishuru, her signature restaurant. While Chishuru sets up shop at its new site in central London, Bakare is popping up throughout May and June at the Globe Tavern in the heart of Borough Market, trying out new dishes for Chishuru (itself one of 2023’s most anticipated openings) with dishes contributed by elite talents, such as pastry legend Anna Higham of Quince Bakery, chef Guan Chua of Nyonya Supper Club, Bake Street’s Chloe-Rose Crabtree and Sirichai Kularbwong of Singburi. If you’re wondering where some of London’s most inventive cooking will be taking place this summer, look no further.

Set atop a four-storey clothing factory in Spitalfields, this elegant modern British restaurant comes courtesy of Nick Gilkinson, a hospitality veteran and co-founder of the excellent Townsend inside the Whitechapel Gallery. At Maene, an elevator opens directly into the breezy, warehouse-style space, split into an open bar and dining room dotted with cosy leather banquettes; meanwhile, a spacious terrace with views of the City begs for balmy weather and spritzes. Amber Francis’s British menu (ex-Brawn) straddles simplicity with sophistication, allowing tip-top produce to speak for itself; gnoccho fritto fresh from the fryer are divine swiped through London Stracciatella spiked with chilli and garlic, while a dish of Cornish sole with wild garlic pairs is understatedly gorgeous. Excellent cocktails and a wine list that leans towards low-intervention bottles round it out.

One of north London’s classic pubs, the Compton Arms in Islington is no stranger to phenoms in the kitchen thanks to the likes of Four Legs (now decamped to The Plimsoll in Finsbury Park) and Reece Moore’s Belly popping up. Dara Klein, who made her bones at Trullo and Sager + Wilde, has now arrived in N1 with Tiella, a new six-month restaurant residency focused on the kind of gutsy, warming Italian fare that most of can only dream of – swoonworthy plates like classic ossobuco, ribbon like strands of sagne nccanulate from Lecce tossed with cime di rapa, or crisp fried sage flecked with anchovy, hot from the fryer. There’s biodynamic wine to drink, and one of the most atmospheric pubs to linger at afterwards.

Famed for creating some of the most sublime pastries in London when she was at Flor Bakery, chef Helen Evans has opened Eric’s, her own tiny bakery in East Dulwich, an ostensible neighbourhood operation that, unsurprisingly given her reputation, has drawn huge queues and visitors from across the city. Evans has a deft hand at using UK-grown wheat from nearby Essex farms, from farmers focused on no-input and organic farming systems, fashioning raw ingredients into staples like porridge loaves, morning buns and focaccia, as well as stunning seasonal creations like swirls of confit potato, Gruyere and camelina, or asparagus and prosciutto croissants.

Walk-ins only.

This upscale, Paris-inspired rotisserie in Covent Garden comes courtesy of chef Tom Sellers, whose acclaimed restaurant Story has been bestowed two coveted Michelin stars. Clad in marble and charcoal hues, the restaurant is split over two levels, with plenty of counter seating overlooking an open kitchen as well as seats overlooking Seven Dials – and a smattering of tables downstairs, overlooking an impressive walk-in wine cellar overseen by a world-class team of sommeliers. Perch at the counter and watch the chefs at work, while enjoying sophisticated riffs on classic dishes like succulent roast chicken and crisp frites, perfect terrine, and a playful snail Bolognese served on toasted bread.

From supper club host to bestselling cookbook author, and now owner of the most feted new restaurant in town, Cynthia Shanmugalingam is one of the most exciting voices in food right now. Rambutan, her love letter to Sri Lanka, takes a plum spot in Borough Market, serving dishes that reflect its Tamil diaspora in their depth. So: flaky roti fresh from the oven, swiped through creamy ray wing curry or a rich tamarind-laced red curry with prawns; sticky chicken rice with pearlescent grains; or playful gundu dosas, perfect with fragrant green chutney. There’s a short but excellent cocktail menu, and while the high-ceilinged atrium at the back is perfect for lunch dates, there’s also a sleek bar that’s perfect for drinks and watching the chefs at work, or to lazily watch the market go about its business. Go with a few friends and order the whole menu.

Raised on a diet of Anthony Bourdain travelogues and Netflix dining shows, there’s a subset of Londoners who find curious pleasure in a prolonged quest to find fantastic tacos in London (they already exist). Founded by a Tijuana-grown duo, this cult favourite has been a leading proponent of the form, and has recently relocated from E17 to trendy Leytonstone, bringing with them an extended taco menu packed with dishes like bavette steak tacos with jalapeno relish, chicken barbacoa, as well as larger dishes like bone marrow and braised chuc (meat marinated in citrus) served with warm tortillas. Grab a Jarritos or paloma, and join in the fun.

For more information, click here.

For a moment, Leytonstone locals and the city’s Asian food otaku were worried that the city’s best Thai restaurant wouldn’t reopen its doors. But chef Sirichai Kularbwong has returned to this classic Thai caff with a vengeance, turning out ever more sophisticated tweaks on time-honoured favourites (the clams are sweeter than ever; the triple-fried moo krob [pork belly] lighter but no less addictive) as well as new dishes like almond tofu in black sesame, with a crisp foi tong topping, or neua yang, Kularbwong’s Thai-style interpretation of Korean-cut shortribs. Focus the bulk of your ordering on the blackboard menu; it’s BYO and cash only; and good luck getting a primetime reservation – you’ll need it.

For reservations, call 02082814801.

Thus far, Amy Corbin and Patrick Williams’ Kudu Collective has carved out a home for itself in Peckham, with hits like the destination-worthy Kudu and the excellent braii-focused Kudu Grill. It’s something of a departure, then, that Smokey Kudu, their signature cocktail bar, has migrated to Chelsea to arrive inside the new RIXO flagship store, providing a gorgeous backdrop to the kind of plush cocktail experience that Nancy Meyers films are made of. A petite, circular bar and sumptuous sofas provide the setting for drinks that range from lighter spritzes and mocktails to a Picante-ish concoction of chilli tequila, Cointreau, lime, and salt, or the bar’s namesake cocktail, blending smokey whiskey, Japanese whiskey, bourbon and sherry. Cheers to that.