The May Hit List: 5Kinokawa, Sushi By Hidden, Aiko, and More

Chef Billy Kin’s tiny, 14-seat, Edomae-style omakase spot is a worthy contender in the explosion of tasting-menu offerings that have cropped up in Houston in recent years. Formerly of Blackbird Izakaya and Hidden Omakase, Kin has named his latest restaurant for a city in Japan’s Wakayama Prefecture, and seasonal ingredients are flown in weekly from places including Toyosu Market in Tokyo. Look for the ever-changing menu to feature quality bites such as bluefin otoro nigiri topped with Hawaiian sea salt and seared with Japanese oak charcoal, and a remix of Kin’s famous uni pasta from Blackbird Izakaya’s menu.

This is one omakase experience that takes the phrase “if you know, you know” to heart. The intimate 10-seat counter has no signage out front, as it’s hidden away inside Montrose menswear line showroom Glass Cypress. Started in the summer of 2020 by Jeremy Truong and former Uchi chefs Luis Mercado and Paolo Justo, Neo offers a more modern, “avant-garde-inspired” take on omakase, serving up 18 to 20 courses, complete with complimentary beverages including wine and sake.

The specialty here: a dry-aging program in which fish such as tuna, yellowtail, beltfish, and others are hung up in a temperature-controlled refrigerator anywhere from a few days to a few months to remove the moisture and enhance the flavor and texture of the fish. On a recent visit, diners were presented with a nigiri-heavy menu that included Hokkaido scallop dusted with citrusy-spicy sansho pepper, a play on lox and bagels featuring 14-day dry-aged Tasmanian ocean trout topped with freeze-dried crème fraiche, and A5 wagyu dotted with mushroom butter and a sprinkle of preserved Périgord black truffle.

Follow Neo on Instagram to learn when bookings are released.

Another Uchi alumnus, executive chef Niki Vongthong, leads the omakase curation at this 18-seat sushi hot spot tucked away in a nondescript shopping center near the Galleria. Like Neo, there’s no signage so you have to know what you’re looking for to find it. In this case, it’s a display of comic books in the window that hide away the delicious experience that awaits inside. Diners who score a Resy to this highly sought-after multi-course tasting will be treated to a luxurious menu comprising quality seasonal ingredients flown in twice weekly from Japan, as well as dishes inspired by Vongthong’s global travels and her Thai roots. Recent nigiri creations have included rose fish topped with a chile garlic mixture, octopus dressed with shiso chimichurri and housemade ink truffle, and red cornetfish finished with lemon zest and ume (Japanese plum) salt.

If you’re running low on time but still craving the omakase experience, Sushi by Hidden has got you covered — and at $60 a person, it’s one of the best sushi deals in town. Taking a cue from sister restaurant Hidden Omakase, this 10-seat counter is accessible through a door that’s concealed behind a large painting in a small art gallery. (The display of NFTs on the wall feature new artists every quarter.) The quick, 30-minute tasting — curated by chef Jimmy Kieu and a rotating crew of chefs from Hidden Omakase — consists of 12 thoughtfully prepared pieces of sushi, which change according to what’s available at the market.

MF Sushi has been a Houston mainstay for more than a decade, thanks to chef Chris Kinjo’s “magic fingers” (that’s what the MF in MF Sushi stands for, natch). The chef’s counter is where diners want to be for a front-row seat to the show, which features Kinjo swaying from side to side as if performing a dance as he deftly shapes the sushi rice in his hands. The 20-plus courses showcase a range of seasonal ingredients that can include bluefin tuna, yellowtail, kohada, Hokkaido uni, A5 wagyu, and more. Know before you go: Reservations are required for omakase with Kinjo, which is limited to 10 seats per evening and only available on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

Call 713-637-4587 for more info.

After nearly 15 years, Houstonians still are flocking to Kata Robata when the mood for omakase strikes, and for good reason. When four-time James Beard nominee chef Manabu “Hori” Horiuchi is behind the counter, it’s guaranteed to be an experience to remember. The fish here are sourced from Japan multiple times a week — assurance that diners are being served the finest ingredients, including sweet golden eye snapper, buttery bluefin tuna, fatty and silky sea perch, and more. There’s only one omakase booking per night, so plan ahead for those resys.

This tiny 12-seater is the latest omakase dining experience by Hai Hospitality, the group behind Uchi, Uchiko, and Loro. Guests enter the space through an inconspicuously marked door at Uchi Houston — apropos, since Uchi means “home” and Oheya means “the room” in Japanese. The rotating monthly tasting menu features 15 unique courses curated by different Hai Hospitality chefs in collaboration with Uchi Houston chef de cuisine Stephen Conklin and head sushi chef Kevin Le. Expect an artfully prepared selection of nigiri, as well as hot and cold seasonal dishes.

Call 713-522-4808 for more info.

Sushi rock stars Patrick Pham and Daniel Lee — the creative duo behind hand roll haven Handies Douzo and Bravery Chef Hall sushi counter Kokoro — opened Aiko to acclaim in April 2022. Last month, they capped off their first anniversary by winning the title of best new restaurant at CultureMap’s 2023 Tastemaker Awards. It’s a well-deserved feat for the Uchi alumni, whose menu embodies their combined 25-plus years of experience in Japanese cuisine and sushi. Dine at the counter to watch the chefs in action as they nimbly prepare each piece of nigiri. Aiko also offers a happy hour omakase deal for $45 that includes a crudo, five pieces of nigiri, and two hand rolls.

Houstonians who haven’t yet made it to Shun will have just one more month to do so as the restaurant announced it’s closing its doors in June after a five-year run. As a farewell, chef-owner Naoki Yoshida — whose family has owned Houston institution Nippon Restaurant since 1986 — is offering a special omakase-style menu called the Tokyo Journey. It comprises seven of chef Yoshida’s favorite dishes from Shun’s menu over the years and will include two raw items, two small plates, four pieces of sushi, an entrée, and one dessert.

Walking into Aya Sushi, it’s hard to believe the serene space awash now in custom forest green banquettes, soft LED lighting, and beautiful wooden accents once housed a big yellow school bus in its former incarnation as Bernie’s Burger Bus. The transformation matches the sophisticated yet laid-back vibe at Aya, which comes from the team behind Kâu Ba and is led by head chef Yoshi Katsuyama (formerly of Soto and, you guessed it, Uchi). Two omakase tiers are offered: a chef’s tasting for $135 per person and a premium omakase for $225. Seasonal fish is flown in daily, and the tasting-menu selection may include less well-known cuts of fish (in these parts anyway) such as engawa (flounder fin) and kama toro (tuna cheek). Diners can enjoy the omakase experience from any table at the restaurant, though we recommend sitting at the chef’s counter for a more one-on-one experience.

Reserve a seat at the sushi bar by calling 713-485-4272 or emailing reservations@ayasushi.com.

Don’t forget to leave room for dessert! In honor of Asian American & Pacific Islander Heritage Month and Mental Health Awareness Month, the Money Cat team is offering a dessert box pop-up fundraiser. The special box will feature eight sweet treats that will highlight different Asian nations, with 20% of proceeds from each $70 box going to the Asian Mental Health Collective and their efforts to destigmatize mental health within the Asian community. Call the restaurant at 281-974-3735 from May 1-13 to pre-order your box for pick-up on Saturday, May 20, or Sunday, May 21, from 1 p.m. to close.