Where to Eat in September: Bad Brother, Messina Social Club, Samuel’s, and More

The City of Brotherly Love is true to its name at Fairmount’s Bad Brother — a chef-centric standout among a plethora of unassuming corner bars. The rowhome turned two-floor restaurant can easily be missed from the outside, while the inside is a visit back in time to what could be owners and brothers CJ Pund and Nick Pund’s South Philly basement, complete with an oversized U-bar and nostalgic pop art wall prints.

Chef Justin Koenig steals the show at this dinner-only joint by turning American family-friendly comfort food like grilled cheese, wings, burgers, and sausage rolls into inspired multicultural dishes. Epazote salsa, cilantro pistou, grilled octopus, and chicken confit stuffed agnolotti are not obvious bar foods, but are instead surprisingly successful results of culinary-school technique combined with a passion for underutilized ingredients.

It’s paid off: families, couples, and friends all congregate here early and often. So snag a seat now.

Don’t let the members-only requirement deter you: At $25 a year, members can bring up to three guests per visit, and trust us — once you’ve sampled their a la carte plates or sipped a Mike Nimmo original cocktail, you’ll become a regular.

The evolution of flavors and textures from crudos to savory pastas and marquee proteins like lamb and pork is chef Eddie Konrad’s unique expression of his Polish-Italian heritage, and “Top Chef” fine-dining precision, in a beautiful old-school Italian hangout. Konrad has won over a loyal following in the short time that he’s taken the reins as head chef. His half-chicken sells out quickly: It’s first brined and dried for several days, then smothered with butter, salt, and pepper, and crisped at the last second, making for perfectly moist, tender white meat on the inside and crispy skin on the outside. Taste the current lineup of six seasonal courses for $95, with pairings for $65 more. And, pro tip: Don’t miss the duck three ways if it returns for the fall edition — another quick-to-sell-out item.

Old City has faced its share of challenges in the past few years — from fires and ongoing construction to emptying commercial buildings and high developer housing costs. But the large Cuban flag hanging outside Home Cuban Cafe on north Third Street is a hopeful sign that multicultural small businesses are revitalizing the historic neighborhood.

Dairys Mayoral, its owner and and a south-Florida restaurant owner for 21 years, opened Home Cuban last year, excited to serve desayuno past noon. With the help of her cousin and mother, family recipes are sprinkled throughout the menu — from cafecitos and egg sandwiches on the plancha to grab-and-go antojitos like jamon croquetas and beef empanadas, plus, of course, traditional Cuban sandwiches.  Customers are coming in from near and far, especially for a taste of that soft, buttery Cuban bread made by a Cuban baker in New Jersey. Daily specials include larger plates and vegan options, plus Caribbean fruit milkshakes and juices.

One of the most exciting restaurants to call Haddon Avenue home, it’s no wonder Hearthside is regularly booked up before doors even open. There’s a lot to take in at this open-air destination in Collingswood: the ringing of the large custom hearth at the center of the kitchen when it’s hand-turned, the wood-fired oven for flash-heating proteins, the outdoor patio humming with diners enjoying the sun, and stunning wooden beams that line the ceiling.

In other words, here’s a reminder that dining out is supposed to be fun — and that simple good-for-you food grilled over an open fire is best. Recent highlights include a medium-rare salmon filet with Thai chile peanut sauce and bok choy; a Mexican street corn-style plate of agnolotti with crema, charred corn, sliced jalapeños, and crumbled queso fresco; and a tagliatelle topped with shredded pieces of roast duck subtly spiced with pink peppercorn. Bring your favorite bottle of wine to kick off the night.

Nothing is going to bring chef Alex Yoon and his seafood bistro down. The newest edition of Little Fish is a joy to experience, despite the construction chaos right outside its doors. And a scale-back in operations and menu means chef Yoon and his team of six can focus on the simple hospitality and outstanding food that makes dining here a special occasion any weekday night.

There’s a level of care and freshness to each dish influenced by Korean, Chinese, and Caribbean cooking that offers people a new perspective on eating fish. The jerk branzino is a charcoal-grilled fillet brushed with several layers of a smoky, spicy brown glaze resulting in chicharrón-like fish skin. The generous plate is served with brown rice, black beans, and slices of sweet mango. With only 10 dishes to choose from, the entire menu is up for grabs and worth splitting over a bottle of bubbly.

Chef Patrick Alfiero — most recently at In the Valley (ITV) and Royal Boucherie — is now focused on humble specialty meats and regionally-sourced accompaniments that are winning over generations old and new. His Porter Street corner shop is an impressive inventory of housemade sausage, charcuterie, deli meats, and breads. The chalkboard changes weekly thanks to his network of 30 farms from New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Virginia.

So lunch one day could mean mortadella made from smoked pork jowls, sumac, and juniper with hand-pulled mozzarella, and seasonal mostarda on house-baked focaccia. Or a deli-style Poppe’s Sandwich with sliced zungenblutwurst German tongue blood sausage, cheddar, spicy pepper relish, aioli, onion, and lettuce on rye that honors Lancaster County’s Dutch and German roots. Another day’s early dinner might be a mile-high lasagna that could feed the entire family. Samples and tasting menus are always offered, especially on the last Monday of each month (12 to 4 p.m.), when Alfiero offers industry specials and introduces new dishes in the works, like rabbit en croute. Bonus: This is a BYO establishment, so have fun pairing meats and drinks.

No reservations. Find more info here.

The former “choose your own steak” house is now fully focused on land and sea. Kensington Quarters’ coastal-inspired menu spotlights ingredients from as far north up the Atlantic as Canada, with a sweet spot for the northeast. Expect the standards: a raw bar, shellfish-heavy plates, and a seafood tower. But save your pennies for a special occasion (maybe bring someone else to cover the check) or swing by for happy hour Sunday through Friday from 5 to 6:30 p.m.

Or soak up year-round Riviera vibes at the outdoor patio, or cozy up next to a special someone upstairs at their secondary bar. The full menu is available no matter where you sit — and includes a few shareable options, like the hearty swordfish Milanese, broccoli Caesar, and pork and clams. Stay tuned for fall spice cocktails, seafood classes, and collaboration dinners.

Editor’s note: As of November 2023, Samuel’s has rebranded into a new concept, Bar Lesieur.

Schulson Collective has added a 10th restaurant to its Center City repertoire: Samuels, an all-day dining establishment filled with nostalgic continental classics. It opens bright and early at 7 a.m. atop Giuseppe and Son’s, Schulson’s subterranean Italian-American spot, with counter service for bagels, self-serve coffee, a small market shelf with fruits and vegetables, and a large to-go fridge section. From 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. the full menu is available for any meal, at any time of the day.

Want an egg sandwich after 1 p.m.? Samuel’s has you covered. Need to impress business clients or interested in a leisurely lunch with colleagues? Split a meaty butcher’s sandwich on your choice of bread or a deluxe appetizing tower of bagels, cured and smoked sliced fish, and salads with all the fixings. Don’t leave without grabbing freshly made breads, bagels, pastries, and desserts from star bakers Nick Brannon, previously at Parc, and pastry chef Abby Dahan, Food Network’s “Chopped Sweets” champion. In other words, come hungry (and take home a doggie bag).

Finally, a slice shop for the people. Owner and longtime Philly boy Derek Giannone is reinvigorating the city’s pizza scene with a throwback to simpler days: pizza by the slice or pie, pool tables, vinyl records for sale, and draft beers. Though Soul City Slice Shop stems from his father’s pizzeria empire, Paulie Gee’s, Giannone and crew are creating memorable circles and squares all their own: The Roast Pork slice is an obvious ode to Philly, while the Freddy Prince is a mashup reminiscent of Brooklyn’s L&B Spumoni Gardens Sicilian with a sesame bottom that becomes the Hellboy², adding charred pepperoni cups topped with a drizzle of Mike’s Hot Honey. Open every day through late night, including happy hour Monday through Friday from 4 to 6 p.m., there’s no better spot to chill with the homies after hours or bring your little ones for an after-school treat.

No reservations. Call 267-239-5761 or find more info here.

Text the group chat, hit the ATM, pack a picnic blanket, and hop on the subway to Franklin Delano Roosevelt Park in South Philly. Suppose you’re a newcomer to outdoor street barbecues. In that case, you’re in for a world of fresh flavors at the Southeast Asian Market from over 50 residents-turned-food entrepreneurs from Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, and elsewhere.

Thanks to the Cambodian Association of Greater Philadelphia and steady regulars, this collection of vendors operates year-round, serving common traditional dishes like papaya salad, grilled beef and chicken heart skewers, seared coconut scallion balls, sugar cane juice, and coconut water every weekend. Do a few walk-throughs to check out the good stuff first, like the Khmer and Philly creation at tent #A26: Cambodian lemongrass cheesesteak with your choice of beef or chicken, topped with roasted sesame garlic red pepper flakes. Hint: If you see a line, it’s worth it. And pace yourself. You’re going to want seconds… and thirds.