The February Hit List: Mother Wolf, Here’s Looking At You, The Dresden, and More

You’re more likely to find eminent pastamaker Evan Funke in Hollywood than Venice these days, helming the giant open kitchen of his swanky sequel to the ever-popular Felix. While the latter pulls from regional Italy, Mother Wolf is laser-focused on the cuisine of Rome. For example: fried artichokes and puntarelle salad, traditional handmade pasta ranging from tonnarelli cacio e pepe to rigatoni all’amatriciana, pizzas wood-fired in a dome oven, whole grilled branzino, and 60-day dry-aged rib eye. When it comes time for dessert, look out for the amaro cart that makes its way around the mirror- and marble-clad restaurant. Pro tip: Reservations are released seven days out, and your best bet for snagging a prime table is by logging on to Resy at midnight.

Everyone loves a comeback story. Enter the return of Here’s Looking At You after a seemingly permanent pandemic closure. Much of the same staff are in the mix, as are beloved dishes like shishito peppers with tonnato and huamei, and spicy frog legs with salsa negra and scallion. Revel in the revival’s feel-good energy, and don’t skip pastry chef Thessa Diadem’s desserts. #HLAYforever.

Call 213-568-3289 for reservations.

Those that go to The Dresden often, or have been at all over the past several decades, know of Marty and Elayne Roberts, the package-deal performers whose nightly live sets were a fixture of old-school Los Angeles. With the recent news of Marty’s passing, it’s a worthy time to visit the Los Feliz restaurant and lounge, if not for a full dining experience, at least for a cocktail. Order the signature Blood & Sand (rum blended with house tropical mix and citrus) and pay tribute to the Swingers-famous duo.

Acclaimed husband-and-wife chef duo Katianna and John Hong are behind Yangban Society, an ambitious new Korean-American deli and minimart that stretches across two stories in the Arts District. At the deli, you can find prepared foods and pickles, spreads and schmears (think silken tofu hummus with coal-roasted eggplant, sesame oil, and buchu), and cooked specials like charcoal-grilled beef galbi ribs and kimchi pozole with pork belly. Head to the super, awash in royal blue, for a curated selection of drinks, snacks, and home goods from L.A.-based and Asian American-owned businesses. More info here.

As the foremost breeding ground for up-and-coming culinary projects, Melody continues to be a go-to spot for some of LA’s most exciting cooking. Here, you can expect regular appearances from pop-ups like the Mexican-Jewish Malli and creative market-driven Radburg, in addition to debuts, special collaborations with local restaurants, and drop-ins by talented cooks from out of town. Whether you’re munching on salmon oshizushi or a wood-fired Neapolitan pie, there will always be great stuff to drink from Melody’s ever-changing wine list, too. Follow them on Instagram, where the current week’s lineup is always in their bio. More info here.

Bolita is a new Cuban bar from the fine folks of El Cochinito and Cafe Tropical, located in Virgil Village. Tiled floors, pink terrazzo tables, and exposed brick set the scene for sipping tropical cocktails like the Yanqui Handshake with reposado Tequila, guava, coconut, cayenne pepper, and cinnamon. And as an added bonus, a rotating cast of “bar pies” in flavors like mint mocha and banana cream brûlée are available by the slice.

Venice’s smashburger sensation The Win~Dow, a spinoff of the steakhouse American Beauty, is now open in Silver Lake, too. Bask in the sun on Sunset as you enjoy a burger (beef or Impossible) grilled on a flat-top, a fried chicken sandwich, or a $7 grain bowl, plus fries, followed by a hand-spun strawberry shake or a salted caramel-dipped ice cream cone. This is simple satisfaction in a nutshell. More info here.

Maybe you have a date, and you’re hoping to go someplace vibey but not old-school. Perhaps you need just the halfway spot to meet your friends from the other side of town. Marvin is the answer. The West Hollywood locale is a wine bar at heart, with a well-executed French-leaning menu with something for everyone. There are oysters, olives, cheese, soups, salads, pastas, entrees like roasted chicken and steak frites, and streamlined desserts. It’s a win-win.

Lasita, formerly Lasa, is a restaurant so vibrant it literally glows. Bright orange walls and soft lighting illuminate each table, while outdoor seating places diners smack-dab in the middle of a bustling Chinatown plaza. And while chicken inasal and pork belly lechon still anchor the menu of pancit, veggies, and masarap (read: delicious) sauces, a handful of new additions, such as sizzling sisig and brussels sprouts with chile crunch and green goddess dressing, are all the more enticing. Come on a Friday, Saturday, or Sunday to finish with a slice of Laroolou’s excellent calamansi cream pie. More info here.

Most days in February are 70 degrees and sunny, and yet it’s technically still wintertime in Los Angeles. Which means it’s soup season. At Thai Town’s Sapp Coffee Shop, you can have beef boat noodles and crispy pork stir-fried with chiles and garlic as early as 8 a.m. every morning (besides Wednesdays, when the restaurant is closed). They also make a stunning tom kha gai that’s equal parts silky, spicy, and sour. More info here.

After a monthlong hiatus, Baker’s Bench is back to serving game-changing vegan croissants and decadently soft chocolate chip cookies from a kiosk in Chinatown. Better yet, owner Jen Yee is always working on something new, from seasonal coffee cake fillings and tofu-based panna cotta toppings to impressive laminated pastries using plant-based Fora butter. You’d be smart to pick up a jar of her hazelnut dragees — caramel-roasted and coated in chocolate and cocoa powder — for someone you love on Valentine’s Day. More info here.