Houston’s Nominees for the 2020 James Beard Awards

There’s nothing quite like a neighborhood restaurant executed to the nines, and the Heights’ Squable is just that. Think plush digs, house cocktails, and joy-inducing comfort food from the trio behind Better Luck Tomorrow and Theodore Rex, which is also nominated this year for multiple Beard Awards. At Squable, the focus is on European fare with American influences and the name is an ode to chef-owner Justin Yu’s fondness for squab.

Theodore Rex has the distinction of being nominated as a semifinalist for two Beard Awards this year: one for chef-owner Justin Yu (aso of Squable) and chef de cuisine Kaitlin Steets. At Theodore Rex, it’s advisable to come hungry and come often; the flavor-packed menu changes daily “due to availability, quality, or boredom.” The spot, which used to be home to Yu’s highly lauded fine dining restaurant Oxheart, is more casual than its predecessor but just as ambitious. At Theodore Rex, you’ll find modern bistro fare focused on hyper-seasonal ingredients from Gulf Coast growers and ranchers.

Master sommeliers and co-owners David Keck and June Rodil have assembled an expansive list of affordable and delicious wines from beloved producers in Italy, Spain, Greece, Portugal, France, and the U.S. to accompany the live-fire cooking at the heart of this restaurant. The range of wines highlights both New and Old World practices. The menu draws inspiration from individual ingredients: vegetables from Goodnight Hospitality’s farm located just outside of Houston, rustic pastas, simple seafood, and locally sourced meats.

Kata Robata is Houston’s undisputed sushi destination, and that’s because chef Manabu “Hori” Horiuchi and his wild knife skills still helm this Upper Kirby locale, ensuring that everything from the sushi omakase to the ramen is executed flawlessly. The fish is flown in from Japan multiple times a week and to complement the sushi and sashimi, chef Horiuchi also serves grilled meats cooked on the namesake robata.

Pondicheri is an all-day sensation with an abundance of flavor-forward offerings, from masala eggs to chai pie. Chef and co-owner Anita Jaisinghani wasn’t always a chef — she was originally trained as a microbiologist — but she got her start in the industry with an out-of-home catering business selling her beloved chutneys to Whole Foods. Her wide-ranging menu at Pondicheri infuses fresh spices and ingredients in alignment with Ayurvedic principles.

This critically acclaimed restaurant combines a cozy bistro feel, serious natural wines, and wildly inventive cuisine from chef Jason Vaughan. In 2018, Esquire named it as one of the Best New Restaurants in America and this year, the magazine named it one of the 40 most important restaurants of the last decade. While you’re here, don’t miss out on a chance to order the lamb dumplings or the Nancy Cakes served with dollops of airy whipped butter and smoked trout roe.