The Ridge Vineyards tasting room at Monte Bello is home to one of America’s most iconic wines. Photo courtesy of Ridge Vineyards

Guides   Santa Cruz Mountains   San Francisco

How to Spend a Sublime 72 Hours in the Santa Cruz Mountains

The Santa Cruz Mountains might not be as famous as Napa, but you could argue that no better encapsulates the feeling of California than this one. The rugged mountain range runs from the San Francisco Peninsula to the top of the Salinas Valley on the Central Coast, dividing the beaches of Santa Cruz County from Silicon Valley and the broader Bay Area. There’s fog from the Pacific Ocean, forests dense with soaring redwoods, soil that has been upheaved and rearranged for millennia by the instability of the San Andreas Fault.

The richness of this environment results in an extraordinary range of terroirs. On the warmer east side, where the drier, scragglier oak and manzanita woods house wineries looking down on the Santa Clara Valley, vintners can produce stunningly complex cabernet and its ilk, including the highly sought-after Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello bottling. Cross over the summit to the west slope, and suddenly you (and the vines) are bathed in fog, in the shade of redwoods. These cooler sites are ideal for pinot noir and chardonnay, both of which have a legacy here that extends back more than a century.

Indeed, these mountains have a long history to draw upon—one that long predates the appellation’s 1981 creation. A physician named Osea Perrone planted the Cupertino property that would become Ridge Monte Bello all the way back in 1885; not long after, Paul Masson brought pinot noir and chardonnay cuttings from his native Burgundy, believing that this was the place to make the finest sparkling wine in America. Masson founded the La Cresta estate, establishing the mountains as prime territory for cool-climate winegrowing, a legacy that a former stockbroker named Martin Ray would carry on at what would become Mount Eden Vineyards. The iconoclastic nature of the area, where the hippies ruled (Ken Kesey and the Merry Pranksters held their acid tests in the mountain town of La Honda) and the information age was born (back when tech pioneers worked in garages, not billion-dollar compounds), drew experimental, do-it-yourself types like Randall Grahm, who came to fame producing Rhône-style wines at Bonny Doon Vineyard.

A down-to-earth, go-your-own-way ethos still pervades the place, with the tasting rooms at even the most acclaimed wineries laid-back and uncrowded. This is surely in part because of the isolated nature of the mountain properties. Ridge and Mount Eden are maybe two miles from each other as the crow flies, but navigating the winding mountain roads from one to the other takes a good 45 minutes. (And, after you’ve maneuvered through a couple of switchbacks, using those spit buckets will feel even more sensible.) Some tasting rooms are only open during the week, others only on the weekend, so plan ahead.

The good news: While the Santa Cruz Mountains feel worlds away, they’re actually quite close to civilization. Los Gatos, a restaurant-filled San Jose suburb in the eastern foothills, is only about an hour’s drive from San Francisco or Oakland, and downtown Santa Cruz is just half an hour further (if you avoid weekend beach traffic). You can hit a couple of wineries on a day trip from the city, or book yourself a beachside stay and enjoy the best of California: relaxed decks and patios, paroramic views and idyllic forests, modest tasting fees and chill vibes, and, of course, exceptional wines.

Day 2: The Heart of Santa Cruz

Madson Wines Santa Cruz

Photo courtesy of Madson Wines

Single-Vineyard Wines in a Warehouse

While most leisure travelers descending from the summit on Route 17 will be headed to the beach or the boardwalk, you’re off to Madson, located amid a cluster of tasting rooms in a warehouse complex on the west side of Santa Cruz. Cole Thomas started the brand in 2018, having taken over the space from the eminent winemaker Randall Grahm. Today, Madson sources from around two dozen vineyards, most of them in the Santa Cruz Mountains, for his excellent chardonnay, pinot noir, syrah, and more. The small tasting room is attached to the production facility, which you can look right in on the action.

Options on the way: If you need a stop before you hit Santa Cruz proper, take a detour to Wrights Station Vineyard & Winery, a scenic mountaintop estate off of Summit Road that takes its name from a nearby ghost town.
Photo courtesy of Madson Wines

The Midway Seabright

A Farm-to-Table Spread

Before you head out of town for a bit, a standout lunch (or brunch) awaits. Chef Katherine Stern transitioned from pop-ups to brick-and-mortar when she opened the farmers market-forward Midway in Santa Cruz’s pleasant Seabright neighborhood in 2023. You might opt for the stack of buttermilk pancakes, or so gavory with a plate of Fogline Farm chicken sausage and potatoes, or harissa-inflected lentils with delicata squash.

Other options: Comfort food like burgers and mac ’n’ cheese, a deck beneath soaring redwoods, and a heated saltwater pool come together to make Felton’s Trout Farm Inn, about a 15-minute drive from downtown, feel uniquely ‘Cruz.

Beauregard Vineyards Bonny Doon

A Fog-Belt Pioneer

Cruise north on Highway 1 for about 15 minutes, past a series of surf beaches, and then take a right into woodsy Bonny Doon. About three miles up the road, alongside the Coast Grade Vineyard, you’ll find the cabin-like, redwood-shaded tasting room of Beauregard, where fourth-generation winemaker Ryan Beauregard, whose father led the effort to establish the Ben Lomond Mountain AVA, makes wines from three estate vineyards. You’ll try the expected (but no less delicious) pinot noirs and chardonnays, along with marine-influenced zinfandel and brooding coastal cabernet sauvignon.

VIM Dining and Desserts Downtown Santa Cruz

A Fresh Dinner with Divine Desserts

Dinner is back in town at VIM, a popular New American restaurant around the corner from Madson. Santa Cruz native Jesikah Stolaroff, who cut her teeth under acclaimed San Francisco chef Daniel Patterson, crafts a menu that shifts with the seasons (a highlight this past summer was caramel-glazed pork belly with fresh watermelon and apricot chamoy), including ever-changing variations on chocolate and cheesecakes.

Other options: To hang with the local cool kids, make for Bad Animal, a bistro, natural wine bar, and bookstore in the heart of downtown. Order a Slovenian pet-nat and a halibut aguachile, flip through a used Bukowski novel, and you’ll find yourself understanding the appeal of the whole “hipster” thing.