The November Hit List: Burdell, Abacá, Heirloom Cafe, and More

Chef Geoff Davis’ restaurant Burdell is the spot right now. He’s doing his version of nostalgic soul food he grew up with, adding his Californian spin using the best ingredients possible and techniques he’s honed over years at working in fine dining. Boiled peanuts tossed in a savory peanut miso. Crispy chicken skin over chicken liver with a cornmeal waffle side. Blackened black cod with creamy sweet corn grits and Sungold tomatoes. A meal here will move you.

There’s nothing quite like chef Francis Ang’s contemporary Filipino-Californian fare. Pork lumpia are lightened up as a lettuce wrap served with a peach mango ketchup, while plump longganisa pork sausages come with an egg yolk to dip into — just like Japanese tsukune. Pancit comes with lobster, while sisig fried rice is adorned with crispy crunchy bits of chicharron. It’s inspired, it’s unique, it’s delicious.

Heirloom Café is extra special during the fall, when the French-leaning fare tends to get a bit heavier with things like cassoulet with crispy duck confit and creamy butter beans, while sides stay inventive yet still seasonal with things like roasted delicata squash over yogurt and salsa matcha. Keep an eye out for wine dinners — they’re like a big communal dinner party, except with bottles from some top New California wineries: last month featured the legendary Steve Mathiasson, and this month will feature Lioco.

Your hands are your best utensils, and if you need convincing, let chef Heena Patel help: this month she’s doing a Diwali “Eat with your Hands” celebration including 20 different thali-inspired dishes — sweet and savory — for you to enjoy. And if you can’t make it then, pop in any other night for hand-held samosas, pani puri, or pav bhaji puffs.

Let’s face it: not everyone is super-confident about cooking turkey. The Morris is here to help, with a different poultry option: their crispy-skinned whole smoked and roasted duck with root vegetables is the move. You can order in advance, rewarm at home and tableside pour that glistening, glossy espresso honey duck jus over the bird. Your guests (and your future self) will thank you.  Of course, they’ll also thank you — and you’ll thank yourself — if you book a table there, and let the top-notch staff do the hard work.

Alternately, if you insist on having turkey, best to let Matthew Accarrino and company do the work for you: Their Italian-inspired meals come in two sizes that feed up to six or 10, and feature brined and roasted herby heritage turkey with black truffle gravy, root vegetable budino di pane, green bean stufato, garlic potato puree, and more. And if you still don’t want turkey, just make a Resy and go to town on some perfect pastas.

From a team of Nopalito vets comes Stoa, a new cocktail bar now open on the corner of Haight and Pierce. All cocktails come care of Yanni Kehagiaras, and the menu is divided between “low octane, yet complex,” meaning low-alcohol; “lean and mean,” and the more powerful “stern, but fair.” On the food front, chef Joji Sumi is doing a mix of market-driven Asian and Mexican fare, with things like cumin lamb belly tacos, poke tostadas, and grilled mochi with bacon, corn, and black aioli.

It’s hard to believe that the seafood-centric Angler turned five this year. Culinary director Paul Chung has revamped the menu, adding some fun dishes to the menu like bluefin tuna with Calabrian chiles and buttery buttermilk bread, as well as hot fried bass collar with a ranch-y cultured cream. Fried smelt with dilly crème fraiche is another snacky fried fish dish, while koshikari seaweed rice with trout roe and urchin nods to his Korean heritage. Don’t forget to finish with one of the best soft-serves San Francisco has to offer.

Some of the best fried chicken in The Bay comes from Christian Ciscle’s SF Chickenbox — always hot, always juicy, always fresh. The hot sauces are special, as are the chewy buttery mochi muffins. And great news: you can now find him frying at the Ferry Building Farmers Market on Thursdays, and if all goes well, (fingers crossed) on Saturdays too.

Come to El Lopo for the sherries and to practice your porron pours, stay for the events — weekly trivia, live music on Sundays, and industry specials on Monday nights. Also: November 7th-13th is International Sherry Week, and they’ll be celebrating with Sherry-oke all week along, along with special tasting classes and more.