The Resy Guide to Bay Area Pizza

Jon Darsky’s Del Popolo, which started as a big beautiful truck, turns 10 this year. The pizzeria is not as old, but their beautiful, leopard-spotted pizzas are as good as they’ve ever been. Now is an especially good time to visit, both to see what they do with their produce-forward small plates section of the menu, as well as to sit in their beautiful backyard patio.

Located literally across the street from Tony’s in North Beach is the newly opened Flour+Water Pizzeria. Here in the massive space, the quality of the pies are just as good as they were in the original Valencia space. Try the new cacio e pepe pie — it’s just like your favorite, salty, umami Roman pasta classic, but in pizza form. And those mozzarella sticks, though.

Laura Meyer, three-time World Pizza Champ and former head pizzaiola for the legendary Tony Gemignani, is the latest reason why Berkeley just might have the best pizza scene in the Bay. At her recently opened Pizzeria da Laura space on Shattuck Avenue, squares are the specialty — thin and crispy grandmas, fluffy Sicilians, and crispy-edged Detroit style. She also has New York style by the pie and the slice, if you’re on the go.

There’s a reason we see wood-fired pizza and natural wine spots everywhere these days: It’s a combination that works so well together. Rose Pizzeria excels at this, especially when you’re chomping on their extra-large charred and chewy pies in their backyard rose garden in Berkeley while the sun shines down on you. Pro tip: Scope their wine club subscription, which comes with a free pizza and three bottles of wine per month for just $75.

Come for the wood-fired pies and natty wine, stay for the awesome ice creams. Here, Pizzahacker alum John McCloskey learned to make ice cream with the help of the folks behind the Good Children ice cream pop-up. It’s got a creamy chew like a good gelato, and is not too sweet. Right now there’s a creamy vanilla version with strawberry compote, shortcake crumble, and rose strawberry syrup. You’ll not want to share.

Shuggie’s specializes in thin and crispy grandma-inspired square pizza, using dough made with milled oat flour and whey topped with ingredients like cauliflower stalks and broccoli leaves, items that would typically be discarded. It’s all in the effort to fight food waste and climate change. They’re doing pizza their own way, and doing good at the same time. Plus, they have a cute bulldog named Beef who tends the bar in the back.

Gialina is the quintessential neighborhood restaurant. We wish we could be regulars at this Glen Park charmer, and the vibe is perfect for a low-key date night. The thin and crispy crusted pizzas are excellent, of course, but make sure you get a salad, too. Little gem Caesars topped with shiny briny anchovies?  Heirloom cucumber with feta? Melon and smoked prosciutto? Yes, please, and thank you.

We can’t have a pizza guide without mentioning Tony Gemignani’s flagship pizzeria in North Beach. The thing that’s extra special about this spot is that the menu is a study in pizza styles across the world. Of course there’s the wood-fired Neapolitan, but you can also find Roman and Sicilian squares, provel-topped cracker-thin St. Louis, extra large New York with coal-fired versions (a rarity in the West Coast), and so much more. No reservations. More info here.

Seasoned San Francisco chef Eric Ehler is doing wonderful things at his shop on Larkin. Pop in for a slice or two of his extra large New York-style pizza of course, but do not snooze on his sandwiches. They all come on a seeded hoagie roll from Rize Up Bakery. The Italian combo hits all the right zesty notes, and the shredded lettuce adds the requisite cooling crunch needed on a rare sunny San Francisco day. No reservations. More info here.

Jeff Krupman’s PizzaHacker started as a pop-up where he’d make pizzas out of a hacked Weber grill before opening up his brick-and-mortar on Mission Street and later in Mill Valley. His stuff is so, so good. The dough is slightly sour, crispy crusted, charred and beautifully blistered. Get the Ohio, topped with curly cupped pepperoni, bright sharp pepperoncini, and is “party cut” into little squares. No reservations. More info here.