The June Hit List: Th Prsrv, Pearl Bar, Little’s Oyster Bar, and More

Chefs David Skinner of acclaimed Kemah restaurant Eculent and James Beard finalist Benchawan Jabthong Painter (“Chef G”) of Thai hot spot Street to Kitchen have struck up an unlikely — and truly unique — partnership with th_prsrv (pronounced The Preserve). The focus: a 12- to 15-course tasting menu of Native American and Thai indigenous cuisine that highlights ancient techniques (think fermentation, pickling, and smoking) through modern presentation. The mission: to take diners on a journey through time, spotlighting “the old world” while bringing forth “an even newer world of progressive cuisine,” explains Skinner, a Choctaw native, and Chef G.

While doing so, they aim to “decolonize ingredients” by omitting from the menu the crops and livestock that Europeans brought with them when they arrived in the Americas — foods that transformed indigenous food systems. That means diners won’t find any dishes made from wheat, dairy, cane sugar, or chicken on the menu. Instead, expect traditional ingredients such as game meats, fish, wild rice, and corn that will be sourced from Native American producers wherever possible. Current highlights include 14-day dry-aged duck with wild rice; bison steak with fermented ramp sauce, served with forest mushrooms and duck fat confit potatoes; and wild boar with garlic, shallots, Thai chiles, green peppercorn, and fragrant Makrut lime leaves.

The reservations-only restaurant is located behind Eculent and will have one seating per week on Thursdays, so make those Resys, stat.

The popular Mexico City-based fast-casual all-day café landed in Houston’s trendy River Oaks District in May after a successful launch in Miami in 2021, bringing with it boho-chic vibes and a vibrant, health-conscious menu jam-packed with gorgeous açai bowls, colorful smoothies, and plenty of savory Mexican dishes to round things out.

Favorites include the chilaquiles rojos o verdes stuffed with shredded panela cheese and topped with tomatoes, onions, avocado, and sour cream (you can add an egg or chicken, if you like); the chutney mango chicken sandwich served with melted Oaxaca and manchego cheese; and the tacos, of course (the chimichurri-marinated rib-eye tacos and lobster tacos marinated in curry paste are must-tries). Even the cocktail program — with wine-based drinks like the dragon fruit margarita and lavender martini — leads with freshness and seasonality in mind.

Find more info here.

Add Navy Blue to the list of go-to places for weekend brunch. The Rice Village seafood haunt began serving everyone’s favorite meal in May, offering classic items such as vanilla-glazed cinnamon sticky buns, French toast topped with mandarin curd and blueberry compote, and an omelet with oozing with warm raclette and frisée on the side, as well as Texas Gulf Coast-inspired dishes including blackened red snapper with aji amarillo, and baked clams with Parmesan, bacon, and sourdough. Resys are highly encouraged.

Executive chef and partner Mark Clayton and his team rolled out a refreshed menu recently — though worry not, the famed marinated mussels on grilled bread and French cheeseburger with melty raclette remain — and it’s not to be missed. Among the new items: perfectly golden-fried Gulf shrimp tempura served with red and white cocktail sauces, a beautifully rustic roast chicken finished with jus and a savory tomato and lemon sauce vierge, and a vegetarian lasagna constructed with layers of Della Casa pasta sheets, a meatless ragu, ricotta bechamel, and spicy arrabbiata sauce.

It’s no secret that Money Cat executive chef Sherman Yeung loves a good Japanese-style sandwich, and diners already flock to the Upper Kirby restaurant for his chicken katsu sando featuring Japanese tartar sauce and tamari caramel. Now, for a limited time Yeung is offering his take on two more versions of the iconic snack. The first is a menchi katsu curry sando, made with a breaded pork patty dipped in Japanese curry that’s complemented with sweet pickled cabbage and onion mayo. The second is an egg salad sando that’s finished with a jammy soft-boiled egg, Calabrian chile mayo, and crispy yucca chips (inside the sandwich, yes). Both offerings will use Money Cat’s signature fluffy housemade milk bread. The sando pop-up ends on June 4, so get your fix while you can — or book a table to enjoy Yeung’s cooking anytime.

Loyal patrons of Little Pappas Seafood House, part of the Pappas restaurant empire, were crushed when the Montrose institution shuttered in 2020 after 30-plus years in operation. Three years later, guests will be more than pleased with the new concept that Pappas has opened in its place.

Little’s Oyster Bar, led by seasoned California chef Jason Ryczek, centers its Texas Gulf Coast menu on locally sourced, sustainable seafood. Expect such dishes as charcoal grilled octopus, Texas redfish served with Castelvetrano olive salsa verde, and chicken fried snapper with a slightly vinegary sauce ravigote. Of course, raw bar offerings will include a rotating selection of oysters and shellfish, and caviar service will showcase caviar from California white sturgeon that Ryczek harvested himself. Color us impressed.

Being that June is Pride, we’d be remiss if we didn’t include LGBTQIA+ friendly establishments on this month’s list. Founded by local entrepreneur Julie Mabry in 2013, Pearl Bar — one of few lesbian bars remaining in America — serves as a welcoming and safe space for Houston’s queer community and has become well-known for its karaoke and bingo nights, drag shows (kings and queens), and LGBTQIA+ fundraisers. Thursday steak nights and crawfish Sundays are also beloved staples worth checking out.

The bar is 21+ only. For more info, follow Pearl Bar on Instagram.

If you’ve yet to experience ReBar’s Sunday Service Drag Brunch, how have you even lived until now? The boisterous, all-ages event is hosted weekly by famed local drag queen Blackberri (known to fans as the “Bearded Beauty of Texas”) and showcases the talents of a revolving cast of fun and energetic drag performers. Come for crowd favorites such as the jambalaya balls and crawfish étouffée egg rolls, and definitely stay for the top-tier entertainment.

For more info, follow ReBar on Instagram.

Husbands Antonio Rios and Diego Chiarello opened La Sicilia in the heart of Montrose in March 2018 to bring a scrumptious taste of Italy to Houstonians. Here, Chiarello — already an esteemed pastry chef back home in his native Sicily — leads the kitchen with his beautiful and innovative creations. His specialty: fusing Italian flavors and techniques with tasty inspiration from American, Asian, French, and Mexican baked goods. Items are made fresh daily and don’t always stay on the menu for long, though favorites have been known to make returns. In addition to flaky cornettos, cream-filled cannolis, and airy bombolinis, past offerings have included a cannoli pie, a briochella (a cross between brioche, a croissant, and ciambella), and peach-mango soft amaretto cookies. Watch for rainbow-themed baked goods during Pride Month, as well.

To see Chiarello’s latest creations, follow La Sicilia on Instagram.

The Austin import opened its first Bayou City outpost in the trendy Montrose Collective mixed-use development in April, giving Houstonians the opportunity to try its menu of “better-for-you” comfort food made with thoughtfully sourced, gluten-free, refined sugar-free, and peanut-free ingredients — all without sacrificing on flavor.

What does this look like? A juicy grass-fed beef burger topped with melted organic raw cheddar, bacon jam, mustard, and crunchy pickles on a gluten-free sesame bun. Or a grass-fed seared wagyu skirt steak served with garlic butter, crispy smashed potatoes, and seasonal vegetable. Or sustainable salmon accompanied by red and gold quinoa tabbouleh, asparagus, cucumber, pickled piquillo pepper, grape tomatoes, and feta, drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette. Healthy never sounded so good.