The February Hit List: Carousel, Putera Puteri, The Plimsoll, and More

The early popularity of this pasta and nose-to-tail restaurant can’t hold a candle to its new Shoreditch digs – Manteca’s final form is something special. There’s an open kitchen and pasta counter upstairs, and swathes of natural wood and cosy corners everywhere you look. Food-wise, Chris Leach’s fresh hand-rolled pastas are a big draw, as are the pork-centric meat dishes and salumi (made in-house daily from Gothelney Farm pigs). As we’re in the depths of winter, expect comforting plates (duck ragu, pumpkin cappellacci) and plenty of winter citrus and Italian greens. Natural wines and amaro cocktails round it out.

One of the most anticipated openings of the year, and with good reason: Kaiseki restaurants in London are few and far between. Referring to the formal Japanese multi-course meal, chef Daisuke Hiyashi trained under Yoshihiro Murata at three Michelin star Kikunoi Honten in Kyoto, and brings pedigree and expertise to the most revered of Japanese dining traditions. Serving a single graceful, truly seasonal multi-course menu in serene surroundings (with a hinoki wood Sukiya-style interior built in Kyoto and shipped piece-by-piece to London), a meal here is both theatrical and contemplative – and well worth the price of admission.

Call 020 3149 1227 for reservations.

Opened by the same team behind the excellent Berber & Q and Shawarma Bar, this cosy eatery in Queens Park exudes a welcoming, hip neighbourhood vibe. Inviting interiors and a bright, open plan layout set the scene for breakfasts of shakshuka and stuffed French toasts, mezze at lunch, and wood-fired sharing plates in the evening, all accompanied by chic low-intervention wines. Most of the menu happens to be vegetarian, with highlights including a turmeric roasted cauliflower and oven-warm mushroom flatbread, alongside meaty standouts like 34-day aged ex-dairy sirloin, harissa prawns with ‘nduja, or pan-seared cod with clams and saffron.

This excellent Malaysian café in Bayswater is a welcome addition to London’s Malaysian restaurant scene, with plates demonstrating masterful wok technique and balancing of flavours. Rotis have plenty of puff and flake, rivalling Roti King and Normah’s down the road; meanwhile, plates of nasi goreng and char kway teow are as good as you’ll find anywhere in London. A cup of steaming teh tarik is essential, and don’t miss the wonderfully balanced mackerel curry, best devoured with ample steamed rice to spoon the rich sauce over.

Call 07488 421961 to make a reservation

This contemporary Turkish restaurant comes courtesy of Esra Muslu, one of the stars of Istanbul’s restaurant scene, who previously cooked at Ottolenghi and ran a successful residency at Carousel. Based in the heart of Carnaby, the gorgeous mezze at this elegant restaurant are notable, even in a city with an impressive range of Turkish eateries; plump manti are doused in garlic yoghurt and slicked with burnt butter; a whole artichoke flower comes loaded with spiced rice and almonds; and a platter of lamb ribs roasted in a spicy glaze is perfect for sharing. Wash it all down with a craft cocktail or two.

Call 07775156768 to make a reservation

The Lunar New Year offers an opportunity to celebrate with friends and family, but also to enjoy some excellent food – and for those heading into central London to feast, this Chinatown gem offers an excellent menu for the occasion. Along with steamed buns, scallops with glass noodles and sticky rice cakes, gather a few friends to go all in on the prosperity toss salad – an arrangement of noodles and julienned vegetables, tossed communally at the table – to see in the Year of the Tiger. A buzzing, light-filled dining room is an excellent setting to relax, and there’s an extensive wine list to sip between baijiu toasts.

In London, skewers seems to be having a bit of a moment, with the popularity of new arrivals like Humble Chicken and Junsei (plus old faithful Jin Kichi in Hampstead) enjoying popularity. New to Soho, Dai Chi (from the guys behind Angelina in Dalston) focuses on Osaka-style deep-fried skewers (kushiage), a differentiator to the minimal grilled dishes of its contemporaries, but easily as delicious. Offering a line-up of the kitchen’s favourite skewers, an all-in menu at £35 keeps things simple and still offers plates of A5 wagyu and white truffle, or deep-fried oysters with yuzu granita. That’ll leave some left over to explore the sake list, and to go in on an excellent matcha ice cream.

Call 020 7734 1449 to make a reservation

Long the place to visit for some of London’s most exciting chef residencies, Carousel has moved from Marylebone to a roomier, grander space set across three Fitzrovia townhouses. Its rotating guest chef lineup is as strong as ever, featuring the likes of ex-Noma talent Iñaki Bolumburu, Nargisse Benkabbou of the acclaimed L’Mida in Marrakech, and Dave Harrison offering a preview of Brasserie Prins, his regional Francophile’s paradise in Copenhagen. There’s also a drop-in wine bar for those wishing to linger, offering natural wines, craft cocktails and a short menu of snacks and small plates.

Call 020 7487 5564 to make a reservation

One of London’s most beloved kitchen residencies, the Four Legs boys upped the stakes and refurbished this historic boozer in Finsbury Park. The atmosphere is about as convivial as it gets, and those familiar with Ed McIlroy and Jamie Allan’s cooking can expect similarly finessed bistronomy-influenced small plates from a menu that changes daily. Dover sole Grenobloise, pigeon bhuna and burnt cheesecake are typical of the duo’s style. A White Russian is recommended, while the Dexter beef cheeseburger remains undefeated.

Taking up the site of 10 Heddon Street (famous alums: Fallow, Manteca), Sarap’s sleek Mayfair location is a prelude to plate after plate of stunning cooking that riffs on chef Budgie Montoya’s Australian and Filipino roots; aged rump cap bistek, monkfish escabeche, and a crispy pig’s trotter stuffed with adobo pork rice. Don’t skip dessert – the cassava cheesecake with pandan is well worth saving some space for.

Call 020 3621 3066 to make a reservation