It is safe to say that no one is cooking food in New Orleans like Sophina Uong. The chef-owner of this Uptown spot dubs Mister Mao a “tropical roadhouse.” She’s exactly right: some might want to call her cooking “pan-Asian” or “global fusion” — which would be both wrong and outdated. Yes, there is burrata in her chaat, Little Gem lettuces with her bulgogi, and shishitos in her Spanish octopus. All this signifies is that Uong’s food is smart and bold, and the “roadhouse” of a room is a freewheeling hoot to dine in.
tl;dr: Just eat at Mister Mao already.