The June Hit List: The NoMad Restaurant, Humble Chicken, Cafe Bao, and More

June’s most in-demand table is, of course, this glitzy NYC boutique hotel import that’s taken up residence at Bow Street Magistrate’s Court in Covent Garden. The light-filled atrium has been given over to the main restaurant, automatically one of the city’s most impressive spaces by virtue of soaring, glass-canopied ceilings and lush interiors; meanwhile, food keeps pace with the atmosphere via exec chef Ashley Abodeely’s luxurious menu of NYC-influenced dishes that include heaving platters of fruits de mer, hand-cut pastas, and an upscale chicken dinner that references the original Nomad restaurant’s roast chicken; here, stuffed with brioche, lemon and parmesan. Worth getting dressed up for.

London’s yakitori specialists are few and far between, an omission that hasn’t gone unnoticed by former Mission chef Angelo Sato, who has gone it alone to open this slick yakitori bar in Soho. Guests relax at a long bar as grill chefs cook every piece of the humble chicken – from familiar pleasures like inner thigh and wings, to livers, cartilage, hearts, and everything in between. Cocktails are superb and notably, Sato’s larger plates are excellent and ideal for splitting with a friend.

After one of the most tumultuous years imaginable, phenom Adejoké ‘Joké’ Bakare has returned to her critically acclaimed Brixton restaurant with the same culinary fireworks and generosity that defined her adored first run in the neighbourhood. Her broadly West African-influenced dishes are still a revelation for first-timers and those familiar with the cuisine; favourites like the fork-tender goat ayamase remain, bolstered by new dishes like a plate of duck hearts with fermented hibiscus sauce and cassava, or a dessert of plantain and baobab ice cream with a cooling lime granita. A class act.

Hop on an express lift from the ground floor at Selfridges, before being whisked up to a hidden Italian rooftop leagues above the sweltering masses. Selfridges have always gone hard for their annual summer rooftops, but none more so than this year’s collaboration with Dior, which sees the breezy, plant-lined terrace at Alto decked out in elegant Toile de Jouy print, plus fabrics, furniture and dinnerware courtesy of Dior Maison. Food-wise, there’s plenty to please – from pristine seafood platters, fritto misto and handmade pasta, to a solid list of Italian-leaning wines and aperitivo for languorous summer evenings. Book ahead, or try your luck with a walk-in.

This tiny Kings Cross dim sum and roast duck specialist has been a perfect, self-contained study in organic restaurant hype – with a few whispers leading to a groundswell of Instagram buzz, national write-ups and the inevitable crowds. Such is their success that they’ve stopped taking reservations (show up 15 minutes before they open), but your efforts will be rewarded with luscious plates of dim sum (the soup dumplings are a can’t-miss), fatty duck glistening beneath a perfectly burnished skin, and dependable renditions of staples like stir-fried beef ho fun. Learn more.

As the story goes, Imad Alarnab fled war in his native Syria, arriving in London via Calais before finding success via supper clubs and raising thousands to aid the refugee crisis. This, his first permanent restaurant, finds itself in a revered corner of Soho (previously the site of Asma Khan’s Darjeeling Express) with a tide of goodwill to buoy it along. The restaurant more than stands on its own merits; excellent Syrian fare presents an explosion of colour and flavour, with colourful mezze, slow-cooked sharing plates, and bright salads perfect for sharing. In particular, the falafel is cooked to perfection, roast okra comes slicked with extra virgin olive oil and creamy labneh, and tender chicken thighs are uplifted with cinnamon-scented bulgur wheat and an assertive kick of chilli.

As far as concepts go, El Pastor’s tacos-and-tequila formula has slipped down a treat. Their newest is a welcome addition to Soho, taking over the hallowed former site of Hix while delivering a considerable amount of the brand’s inimitable joie de vivre while staying true to the spirit of the original restaurant. Hand-pressed tortillas are the star of the show as ever, accompanying classic and new dishes like a fresh scallop tostada, or a large format spiced duck to share with salsas and plenty of sides. Slip downstairs afterwards, where the former Mark’s Bar has been converted to an intimate mezcal bar – perfect for a nightcap.

Each Bao has established an identity unique to the ones before it, and Café Bao in Kings Cross is no different. From the Mad Men-esque interior panelling and colour scheme to a playful lineup of dishes equally good to take away as to eat in, it has a vibe all its own. There’s a distinct focus here on dishes inspired by western-style caffs one finds in Asia – Japanese kissatens and Taiwanese boleros have been referenced – and it translates to playful dishes like a ham hock congee ‘pie’ with chilli oil, 40-day aged steak rice with pepper sauce and egg, plus a banoffee sundae to rule them all.  Grab a boba and some sweet buns to take home from their dedicated takeout counter.

A quiet backstreet in Fulham seems an unlikely place for one of the city’s best new restaurants to have taken root, but in doing so, the owners of this diminutive neighbourhood eatery have breathed new life into the area. Coming from the team behind Hackney’s acclaimed casual fine diner Nest, their second effort is every bit as good as the original; outstanding British produce finessed into lip-smackingly delicious plates, experienced via a la carte or a sweet tasting menu (at £50, the latter is an absolute steal for the quality). An intimate dining room of luxe, upcycled furniture is a fitting setting for dinner; equally so the sunny garden out back.

Already a firm favourite in their native Brighton and Hove with a brace of acclaimed restaurants, this Bib Gourmand-awarded Italian has made the leap to Fitzrovia, on a pretty corner site with a spacious outdoor terrace for spritzes and snacks. The kitchen understands the rules of seasonal Italian cooking without rigidly sticking to them; playful antipasti (like generously filled crab arancini with a refreshing basil emulsion) precede creative pasta and secondi. Confident, assured, and with five courses for £45, superb value.