Back Open in London: Mei Mei, Jim’s Cafe, Som Saa, Noizé, and More

A love letter to the kopitiams (coffee shops) of her native Singapore, critically lauded chef Elizabeth Haigh lovingly turns out classics like nasi lemak and Hainanese chicken rice at this tiny Borough Market counter, plus large format plates to share like Singapore chilli crab and roast duck. Planning ahead for dinner is essential, but those in a hurry can swing by for breakfast for a superb takeout kaya toast.

This Holloway jewel is known best for two things: Chef-owner Mandy Yin’s uncompromising bowls of Malaysian laksa, and being perpetually busy, such is its popularity with locals and pilgrims alike. While they’re not open for indoor dining yet, snag a table on the pavement and slurp noodles with abandon; order an extra dish of crisp fried chicken (one of the city’s finest) or curry puffs as a reward. Also, look out for exceptional specials, like fragrant, tangy Assam laksa topped with fresh herbs and flaked mackerel.

Pairing traditional Thai dishes and flavours with British produce, this Spitalfields establishment has a reputation for uncompromising takes on classic Isaan fare. Dinners can be lavish, drawn-out affairs – though it’s also convenient enough to visit for lunch during the week. Don’t know where to start? A fleet of set menus offer a balanced (and traditional) spread of dishes to share; first timers are advised not to miss the whole deep-fried seabass, which remains a signature dish.

A dependable all-day spot serving superb breakfast baps, burgers (from a classic cheeseburger to a ‘pulled’ chicken sandwich) and strong cocktails, Jim’s feels equal parts caff and US-style diner. Handsome wood panelling, comfy booths and biker apparel offer vibes in spades; meanwhile, friendly service and a strong local following ensure a good time. Chef Andrew Clarke (formerly of Brunswick House) is behind the food, so expect a little finesse in the cooking.

An all-day spot in Spitalfields, this cosy café serves up laid-back brunches and specialty coffee during the day, transforming into an intimate natural wine bar and small plates restaurant at night. Chef Naz Hassan (Clipstone, Neo Bistro)’s menu skews Mediterranean, with a a mix of light dishes like dayboat fish crudo, burrata, or fritters accompanied by an excellent pasta dish and braise. A terrace makes it an ideal spot for drinks and snacks when the weather’s fine.

Named for the owner’s ancestral village in the Loire valley, this elegant, unpretentious Fitzrovia restaurant wears its heart on its sleeve. A serious wine list and a succinct, ever-changing menu of French-leaning dishes set the mood; both grown up enough for a proper date, yet relaxed enough to gather one’s inner circle. Fluffy, still-warm cheddar gougères, and decadent plate of profiteroles are both essential bookends to a meal here.

A classic for a reason, this West London institution has drawn a loyal crowd of regulars over the years for its stiff martinis, laid-back ambience, and superb cooking that spans the eponymous steaks to lighter plates like moules, seafood, and robust salads. Native breed beef is sourced from Warrens in Cornwall, and arrives perfectly grilled via cuts on a daily-changing specials board and Sunday roasts worth setting aside an afternoon for.

Last autumn, this acclaimed restaurant quietly reopened in a brand new space in Tooting. The concept — modern dining, ancient techniques —sounds high-touch, but translates as straightforwardly delicious, dazzling plates like roasted pumpkin with honey and citrus, or smoked Chalkstream trout with a bright blackberry vinegar and tomato. For novices, a shared tasting menu of small plates makes for a perfect introduction, while the new space – an upgrade from their previous location in a Brixton shipping container – is an elegant upgrade.

One of the city’s greatest gastropubs, this boozer’s gorgeous terrace (overlooking a pretty corner of Hackney Road) is a huge draw in fair weather, and a perfect gathering place to celebrate with friends over delicious pies, roasts, and puddings. They’ll be reopening with a shortened menu, but really, it’s a joyous occasion all the same.

Chef Civan Er’s modern take on Anatolian cuisine won him acclaim in Istanbul, and his elegant Soho restaurant represents some of the best Turkish cooking anywhere in London. This smart, light-filled space on Beak Street is perfect for people-watching, while finessed sharing dishes like oven-roasted beef ribs with isot pepper and shatteringly crisp courgette fritters with sour cherry sorbet are both thrilling and comforting.

One of the original—and still the best—steakhouses in town is housed in an old theatre, complete with art deco flourishes and soaring ceilings. There’s a pretty covered terrace for spritzes, a glamorous bar for cocktails, and a seductive, banquette-lined restaurant for everything from statement dinners to hot dates. The headline attraction is superb: beautifully aged cuts of native breed beef (via Warrens in Cornwall) prepared over a showstopping open fire pit to the perfect char and tenderness.

Chris Leach makes some of the finest hand-rolled pasta anywhere in London, completing each dish with gorgeous sauces like a brown crab ‘cacio e pepe’, or complementing sweetcorn ravioli with girolles and nasturtium leaves. Salumi, meat, and cocktails are also strengths here – round a meal out with a plate of pig’s head fritti or house-made mortadella, a grilled peach salad, or an Amaro cocktail or two.

An experience like perching at Barrafina’s curved marble bar with a glass of cava and tapas is one of the reasons anyone moves to London in the first place. Casually fabulous, this institution backs up ambience with some of the best Spanish food outside of Spain itself; gleamingly fresh seafood, meat, and vegetables prepared simply to let flavours shine, and classics done right. One of the city’s great nights out.

The post-lockdown period feels like an intersection of several unlikely bedfellows: the arrival of summer, a glut of outstanding produce, and the opportunity to share a meal out. Barrafina’s Drury Lane restaurant – converted to a specialist seafood bar with flawless, seldom-seen tapas – is an appropriately luxurious venue for an understated celebration, with gleaming marble counters and a dreamy dining room to usher in the new season.

A pastel pink dining room, colourful cocktails and shakes, and a fleet of well-travelled dishes spanning the Americas and Asia serve to add colour to this Shoreditch spot’s vegan ethos. An entirely plant-based menu (organic and GMO-free, naturally) of comforting classics like pulled jackfruit tacos, Korean-style ‘wings’, sandwiches and bowls makes it excellent for day or night; casual enough to drop in, but worthy of a celebration.

An upbeat taqueria on Rye Lane offering tacos, nachos, wings, and more, this buzzy spot has garnered a loyal clientele through a combination of excellent Mexican fare, standout playlists, and cocktails loaded with plenty of mezcal. Excellent for an upbeat dinner, celebration or fun date.