The December Hit List: Archipelago, Gravitas, Stable DC, Taqueria Xochi, and More

Chef Darren Norris has dedicated much of the last 20 years to Japanese cuisine, first at Perry’s sushi, and later at the seminal Washington izakaya Kushi, now at Shibuya Eatery in Adams Morgan. Since the pandemic Shibuya has taken to the streets, specializing in bintochan charcoal grilled kushiyaki, ranging from sugar cured Kurobuta pork belly to giant prawn. But don’t underestimate their addictive Koji cured chicken thigh, and Japanese eggplant basted with sweet miso as well. For inclement weather, consider a bowl of Soba noodles in dashi broth with broiled eel, or duck bone collagen broth with lacquered duck. All best enjoyed with selections from their deep roster of sake and Japanese beers — and currently the Shibuya menu is dovetailed with Death Punch’s annual Miracle pop-up, too.

Dining status: Patio dining is open for reservations, carryout and delivery are also available. Call 202-450-2151 for pickup orders.

Is there any better way to relish the absurdity of this holiday season during a global pandemic, than with flaming scorpion bowl cocktails and Chinese-American food, while lounging on the patio at Archipelago? Lapsang tea and five-spice deviled eggs, crab Rangoon dip, and hot chicken steam buns are a must. Maybe ease into things with an Islander’s Breakfast combo of beer and a daiquiri shot, before diving into deep end with Dr. Moreau’s Vacation Retreat (Serves four, at the least), or the Truck Bed Funeral — made with Navy-strength rum, mezcal, cinnamon, peach cordial, and grapefruit.

Dining status: Patio dining open for reservations, curbside pickup and delivery are also available.

Yes, you can have yourself a proper steak frites at chef Cedric Maupillier’s Shaw bistro — preferably at brunch where it’s served with sunny-side eggs, mushroom, lardons and Bourguignonne gravy. But there may be no better place in town for bouillabaisse Provençale, featuring a medley of red scorpion fish, monkfish, bream, prawn, and mussels in a classic tomato & saffron seafood broth. The leeks vinaigrette is as timeless and elegant as the fried-chicken sandwich with ranch & coleslaw is scrumptious. And by all means, find any excuse to order the duck paella à la Française, made with muscovy duck confit leg, roasted breast aiguillettes, pan seared foie gras, Cognac duck sausage, baby turnips and hen-of-the-wood mushrooms.

Dining status: Patio and indoor dining are open for reservations, carryout and delivery are also available. 

Maybe your alpine ski trip got cancelled this year, not to worry. Along with expanded patio seating with heaters and blankets, Stable has converted their dining room into five private wooden “chalets”; perhaps the most adorably kitsch setting to enjoy their delightfully retro Alpine fare. Fondue and raclette are their calling card, but we’re even more keen for the chicken and mushroom vol-au-vent, or the venison loin with spaetzle, braised red cabbage, and caramelized chestnuts. Order pours from their wide selection of amaro, schnapps, and absinthe — or take them compounded into their “Medicinal Concoctions,” such as the Mountain Xanax. Or the Swiss Cartel — with mezcal, Aperol, yellow Chartreuse and lime — which is a Stable classic for good reason.

Dining status:  Patio and indoor dining are open for reservations, carryout and delivery are also available.

Fortunately chef-owner Teresa Padilla’s pandemic-era ghost kitchen — turned brick-and-mortar carryout taqueria window — has been open for just long enough that the long queues have subsided and you can reliably devour their quesabirria tacos with consomé, seven days a week. For a tidier package, handsomely wrapped in paper and twine, opt for the Puebla-style cemitas made with chicken, beef or eggplant milanese, topped with Oaxaca cheese, and avocado on a house-baked roll, and pressed on the griddle to finish. Their massive Oaxacan tlayudas (made for sharing), which will help you relinquish any lingering affection for the recently departed Taco Bell Mexican Pizza.

Dining status: Available for takeout. Order here.

For robust and warming Korean dishes, layered with complex fermented flavors, we look as always to Anju. The pan-fried pork and kimchi are a must, and their stellar Korean fried chicken is served with a trio of jujube mole, Alabama white barbecue, and spicy gochujang sauces. There is the mandatory ssam board of seared galbi, and some of the best bokkeum bap (fried rice) in town, made with buttered kimchi, shrimp, squid and bay scallops. Or for maximum nourishment, go for Mama Lee’s Classics — recipes adapted from chef Danny Lee’s mother, the family’s first restaurateur — like jigae of stewed kimchi, soft tofu and twice cooked pork belly. Housemade kimchi is aged 30 days, but if dining there, it won’t hurt to ask if the 100-day kimchi is on offer. 

Dining status: Patio and indoor dining are open for reservations, carryout and delivery are also available.

With the recent promotion of chef Armani Johnson, the menu at ABC Pony has woven together influences from Cantonese, mid-Atlantic, soul food, and Italian cuisine with the fabulous insouciance. You might start with crab dip and cheddar-bay biscuits, and lumpia filled with spicy red sauce, meatballs and burrata; next, a Piedmontese Caesar salad of radicchio, apples and hazelnuts; and move on to blackened rockfish with chicken-liver XO and sofrito dirty rice. Check in early during the week for their generous dinner specials like a New York strip steak and squash au poivre for two, with tomato soup, shrimp & cucumber salad, truffle butter noodles and tiramisu for $50. And we certainly hope their whole Peking duck special returns for the upcoming holidays.

Dining status: Indoor dining is open for reservations. Carryout and delivery are also available.

Chef Matt Baker’s Michelin-starred spot is serving a range of dining experiences and tasting menus in their striking, light filled, industrial-chic interior (by Natalie Park Design Studio). Enjoy evening drinks with an à la carte menu served on their rooftop garden and conservatory, or settle into a six-course tasting menu seated at the main dining room. Or consider the 15-course tasting at the chef’s counter. The fall harvest tasting menu includes roasted king salmon with fermented turnip and barley puree, kohlrabi katsu and miso vinaigrette, which might be paired with ribolla gialla from Friuli; and honey-lacquered pheasant with roasted oyster mushrooms and huckleberry jus, paired with valpolicella from Giuseppe Quintarelli at the chef’s counter — all splendid choices indeed.

Dining Status: Reservations are available for their tasting menus offered both for indoor and outdoor dining, as well as à la carte service at the rooftop conservatory. Carryout and delivery is available from their sister concept, Baker’s Daughter.

Situated off a bucolic stretch of K Street Northeast, just a block away from the Union Station rail yard, head to Indigo for some of our favorite Indian cooking in town. Daily special curries and biryanis are often in contention, but we are always bullish on their vegetable dishes. Spicy pumpkin, daal makhani, pungent cabbage and peas, and smoky eggplant baingan bartha are a must. Add some fried paneer pakoras and roti breads, and some cold IPAs for a relaxed, enchanting meal under their bungalow-esque, canopied patio.

Dining status: Available for carryout and delivery, with available (covered and heated) patio seating.

We have word the crew at Garden District plans to layer up with more flannel, and stay open later into the holiday season this year, to provide us with much needed sanctuary for beer and barbeque on 14th Street. There are classic German lagers and local farmhouse ale on draft, as well as a dozen or so microbrew tall boys and ciders (and spiked hot cider too). Keep an eye out for incoming additions of hot chocolate, eggnog, and mulled wine to the menu. Garden District’s storied pitmaster, James Waterhouse, aka ‘Jimmy Muscles’ turns out spot-on barbeque brisket and pulled pork sandwiches, best served alongside their decadent mac & cheese, and fried kosher dill pickle spears, but let those cool down first if you would rather not torch your mouth. 

Dining status: Patio dining is first come first served, and via waitlist, with available carryout and delivery. More info here.