New on Resy: Ikoyi, 10 Heddon Street, Darby’s

Hidden away in a tiny mews off Regent Street, 10 Heddon is a slick pasta-focused restaurant from chef Chris Leach and Smokestak’s David Carter, two of the city’s hottest talents. The latter brings his expertise in turning whole animals into delicious cuts of charcuterie (so expect next-level salumi, all made in-house), while the former — one of the best pasta specialists around right now — creates hand-rolled pasta dishes like creamy sheep’s milk ricotta ravioli, or a life-changing garganelli smothered in a ragu of spicy pig’s tail. Grab an amaro spritz or a glass of Lambrusco at the bar, and settle in for an excellent night.  

Perhaps the most exhilarating restaurant in London right now, Ikoyi uses West African ingredients as a departure point to craft stunning tasting menus worthy of its Michelin star (amongst other accolades). Co-founder Iré Hassan-Okudale has created an understated dining room that’s both occasion-worthy and relaxed; meanwhile, chef Jeremy Chan’s experience at restaurants like Noma and Hibiscus combines with his own singular moneyball approach to flavour and technique, resulting in truly memorable dishes like smoked jollof rice with crab, or a fish pepper ‘stew’ of stone bass, vegetables and shiso, finished with a soothing cod dashi. 

As restaurants go, Darby’s is every diner’s dream — a plush, gilded mirage rising from the Vauxhall Embankment, blessed with everything from an incredible bakery, oyster bar and grill, to an outdoor terrace for balmy summer evenings. Chef Robin and Sarah Gill have gone the whole hog with their interpretation of contemporary Irish cooking, using stunning produce across the menu: ease into an evening with Dooncastle oysters or a lobster brioche roll, before moving onto meat and fish from the grill and a lusty chocolate mousse with Guinness gelato for dessert. Need more convincing? There’s live jazz at the weekends, a busy oyster happy hour, and some of the best cocktails you’ll find south of the river. 

Arch Rivals pretty much epitomises the term ‘hidden gem’. Tucked away in a railway arch in Forest Gate, its obscure location does little to hide the fact that owner Michael Sanders and his team are cooking some of the most deliciously creative food anywhere in East London. Imagine the bastard offspring of NYC’s Mission Chinese Food and Black Axe Mangal — a typical night might see a nectarine salad doused with Thai herbs and fish sauce, or one of the best plates of fried chicken you can find in London, liberally sprinkled with chilli, Sichuan peppercorn and spices. Flavours are huge, wines are natural, and a good time is pretty much guaranteed. 

Remember the speakeasy craze a few years ago? NOLA was one of the OG bars to establish itself in a hyper-saturated Shoreditch scene and, after a hiatus, shifted east to Bethnal Green. While the inspiration comes from the bars and clubs of New Orleans, the bar couldn’t exist anywhere else but East London — vintage period furnishings and live jazz are a perfect setting for stunningly good cocktails, Creole-style cooking and an anything-goes vibe. Come for the sazeracs, stay for the music; just don’t expect to get home in one piece. 

Khao soi. Som tum. Goong ob woonsen. Londoners’ awareness of Thai cuisine has shifted in recent years, and the arrival of Wild Rice in Soho adds another arrow to the city’s burgeoning offering. Taking a cue from the cuisine and drinking dens of Bangkok’s Chinatown, the Soho location couldn’t be more fitting; upstairs, there’s a colourful dining room for a quick lunch or knees-up with friends over platters of spicy papaya salad, chicken and coconut noodles and addictive Thai-style fried chicken. Meanwhile, night owls should follow the neon into a separate hidden basement bar, where the punchy martinis and cocktails should be sufficient to start — or end — the night on a high note. 

Perfect for groups and impromptu hangs over crisp croquetas, silken plates of jamon and Spanish-style G&Ts, Camino’s original site in Kings Cross covers almost every conceivable base. You wouldn’t guess it from the outside, but this classic Spanish restaurant huge; there’s a spacious booth-lined dining room for groups, an outdoor terrace for warm days, and a couple of intimate bars for cold cervezas and relaxed dates — perfect for pretending you’re lounging around in L’Eixample. 

If Walthamstow is the new Hackney, then the food has to be good — right? The answer, of course, is a resounding yes, and newcomer Spice Box fits seamlessly into the neighbourhood’s M.O of superb neighbourhood restaurants. The focus here is vegan Indian cooking, using classic techniques and ingredients to give dishes like a delicious mushroom keema or jackfruit jalfrezi an E17 twist. So while plenty of familiar Indian veg dishes are present (pani puri and chana masala, anyone?), chef Grace Regan’s riffs on Anglo-Indian staples and a killer brunch make the restaurant a boon for vegans and occasional vegans alike.