The September Hit List: Forsythia, Pod, Enswell, and More

At Forsythia, which just marked four years of serving the Frenchest food in Old City, chef Christopher Kearse is always up to something fun. Over the summer, it was a four course “Sundae” dinner that each ended with an elaborate ice cream dish to mark the end of the weekend. The bar also offers a Sunday night happy hour. All year long, the French AF series brings themed dinners that pay homage to something Gallic-leaning, be it people like Julia Child, places like the Côte d’Azur, or ingredients like foie gras. Forsythia has also been known to host French disco dance parties, notably on New Year’s Eve. Special events aside, the team here makes quality French fare all year long, from escargot to lamb crépinette, and creme brulèe for dessert.

What happens when the teams behind two of Philly’s hottest beverage brands — Rival Bros. Coffee and New Liberty Distillery — team up? You get Enswell, a brand new all day cafe and cocktail bar on the ground floor of Rittenhouse’s century-old Touraine building. With glowy art deco vibes, the gorgeous space designed by Lance Saunders evokes Parisian salons. Pastry and coffee in the morning shifts to small plates at night. Chef Andrew Farley, who previously worked at Ellen Yin’s High Street, is offering dishes that pair well with cocktails created by Vince Stipo of Superfolie, which Esquire recently named to its “Best Bars in America” list. Think: Roasted bone marrow paired with a frothy espresso and bourbon combo. Enswell is bucking the reservations trend by offering walk-in only seating.

More info here.

Zahav needs no introduction. The award-winning modern Israeli standout has been one of the country’s toughest restaurants to book for years — though setting a Notify helps. Things changed, though, this summer when Michael Solomonov’s crew opened a new covered patio that seats 56. And get this: It’s walk-in only.

With an à la carte menu instead of the standard $75 tasting menu, this chill setup ratchets up the restaurant’s accessibility. On the patio, you can still rip apart fresh, warm pita and dip it into the country’s creamiest hummus, taste a half dozen salatim like beets with tehina, and share small plates full of Middle Eastern flavor and ingredients.

Prefer to sit in the main dining area? Book it on Resy. After all, the patio expansion might just make it easier to grab a table in advance.

The Jersey Shore’s buzziest new opening is a petite coffee shop in Wildwood Crest. Yes, you read that right. Turtle Gut opened last year with little-engine-that-could energy and Philly swagger. During the day, the cafe serves cosmopolitan treats like fresh brioche doughnuts, cuban sandwiches, and avocado toast on Mighty Bread sourdough, with a coffee program that highlights specialty roasters from around the world. At night, owners Joseph Pettinelli and Eva Basilio Garcia use the space for pop up dinner parties. Cioppino Nights bring a tasting menu anchored by the Italian seafood stew and crusty, local bread. Over the summer, Garcia’s mom led an unforgettable Baja series that we hope becomes a regular thing. Philly chefs have also been popping up at Turtle Gut — serving pizza, Filipino food, barbecue, and more.

More info here.

For those of us who didn’t grow up summering in Margate, Steve & Cookie’s holds a mystical quality. While the shore offers plenty of fun eats, Cookie Till’s sophisticated restaurant has always set the bar high. Classic dishes, like a seafood pan roast, “ugly tomato salad,” and overflowing slices of blueberry pie keep the place packed. For years, those in the know would line up on the first day of spring to book their entire summer’s reservations at the elegant bayside restaurant.

And then, in 2020, it democratized its reservations process. It’s still a hard table to get, but now, you can sign onto Resy exactly 30 days in advance at 10 a.m. for a chance to book. Otherwise, try setting a Notify or getting there early to secure bar seats.

When Lizzo and Eagles quarterback Jalen Hurts each give their stamp of approval to the same restaurant, you know something special is happening. FoodChasers’ Kitchen is a brunch and lunch spot owned by twin sisters Maya and Kala Johnstone. Both former school principals, they launched their casual restaurant a few years ago and have been racking up celebrity endorsements ever since. Grits are a must-order here. They’re cheesy, creamy, and come topped with seafood and cream sauce. Football fans will want to sample the Jalen Special, a cheesesteak with fried onions and mayo, but salmon cheesesteaks are also solid. Located just outside the city in Elkins Park, it’s only a block from the regional rail train station.

More info here.

In a tiny South Jersey town that offers big time dining, Heathside quickly soared to the top of food critics’ lists — from the Inquirer to Bon Appetit — when it opened in 2017. Earlier this year, Hearthside transitioned to a $115 prix fixe menu. It provides some needed stability in these rocky times, while giving the kitchen a chance to showcase six seasonal courses a fine-dining BYOB format.

Dominic Piperno’s team cooks seasonal ingredients over a wood fire and makes standout pasta dishes, like tender radiatori with rock shrimp, prosciutto, and crunchy lemon breadcrumbs or rich cacio e pepe lightened up with charred sweet corn. Snag a table for this popular dining room or roll the dice with outdoor walk-in seating. Either way, don’t forget a bottle of wine.

For decades, seafood in Philly has been practically synonymous with Oyster House. Thanks to third-generation owner Sam Mink’s design sensibilities, this Center City institution has aged well. Vintage oyster plates add color and charm to the fresh, airy dining room. Before the cooler months set it, get there for well-sourced raw bar bites, lobster rolls, scallops, Maryland crabcakes, and much more from under the sea. New England style clambakes are also available for dine-in or in a steamer for take-out. Don’t miss the weekday happy hour, when oysters go for $2. A big gin selection — perfect for classic martinis — steals the show in the pretty bar area.

Talk about old school: Sang Kee has been serving Peking duck in Philadelphia since 1980. The casual Chinatown staple is still the place to go for the crispy skin, tender roasted ducks that come with thin pancakes or pillowy buns, hoisin, and scallions. The rest of the Hong Kong style menu here is equally strong, with dan dan noodles, giant bowls of wonton soup, mapo tofu, and crispy string beans in garlic sauce. Tip: Get soup with both wontons and noodles, because you only live once. There’s not a full bar, but Sang Kee does have beer and wine available. Come ready to share a filling meal, and be patient in case there’s a wait. No reservations, after all.

More info here.

Everytime the team at Starr Restaurants talks about changing things at Pod, we all have the same question: Are they keeping the pods? Thankfully, the busy University City restaurant isn’t messing with its three enclosed, color-changing circular booths, but Pod’s format continues to evolve.

During the pandemic, the 23-year-old restaurant, whose menu has wandered across various Asian traditions over the years, brought in celebrated chef Peter Serpico and became KPod with a “kinda Korean” menu. As of this month, it’s back to a Japanese format with its old name and a sushi-heavy menu, led by Philly’s raw fish master Kevin Yanaga, aka the “sushi whisperer.” His offerings run from accessible Philly Rolls with salmon and cream cheese to $16 bites of fatty tuna. Chef Kenjiro Omor leads a huge izakaya-style menu that features ramen, gyoza, Japanese fried chicken, charcoal-grilled protein, and a lot more. This staple on Penn’s campus has always been a see-and-be-seen place, so make a reservation and get dressed up for dinner.