The May Hit List: M Cantina, Townhouse Detroit, Adachi, and More

Chef Junior “Liquid Chef” Merino’s temple to modern Latin street food extends beyond the typical Cinco de Mayo fare with the inclusion of items like empanadas and papas bravas, but even the tacos and tortas are not your typical Mexican standbys. Merino subscribes to the cocina de autor style of cooking, and his cuisine, though influenced by his upbringing in Puebla, is far more chef-driven than traditional. Think: duck carnitas tacos with guava-chipotle sauce and crispy onions, and spicy-sweet popcorn shrimp wrapped in butter lettuce. You know the place is different the moment they bring out their house salsas, a colorful array of 18 different squeeze bottles housing everything from creamy avocado salsa verde to oil-based salsa infused with chiles. A former mixologist who made a name for himself in New York City and created the first official cocktail of Mexico, Merino recently began showing off why they called him the “Liquid Chef,” employing the largest collection of agave-based spirits in Michigan.

Reservations required.

Open since late March, this long-awaited Mexican restaurant from partners Jose Granados and Sandra Haro has rechristened what previously seemed to be a cursed restaurant location. But some subtle structural changes, including a complex venting job, have allowed a real hotline to be installed in the kitchen and the results have served Mezcal well in early going. The expansive menu includes both standard street tacos topped with choice of meat, onion, and cilantro, as well as more inventive fare like the trendy quesabirria and even keto-friendly tacos made with a cheese shell. On the beverage side, expect variations of margaritas, palomas, cantaritos, and other cocktails, as well as flights of the restaurant’s namesake spirit served with traditional accouterments.

Walk-ins only.

The Vargas Lopez family’s beloved Mexican market, tailored to southwest Detroit’s large community with roots in Jalisco, has long been known for its tamales. You’ll find them conveniently piled high in steamy plastic bags on the counter of the market for home enjoyment, or order them served with a plate of rice and beans at the adjoining restaurant. Here, you’ll also find a huge menu of Mexican staples, including birria de chivo, a traditional Jaliscan dish of stewed goat served with onion, cilantro, and tortillas. La Jaliscience is also a great place for groups thanks to a beverage menu that features buckets of beer and enormous micheladas.

Walk-ins only.

If you need a break from tacos and tamales, head to Breadless, a carb-free sandwich joint that puts a fresh, easy-to-understand twist on the walk-up Subway model. Open since late March, this Black-owned spot from husband and wife Marc and LaTresha Howland and chef Ryan Eli Salter arrived ready for the limelight, with sleek branding and a health-conscious quick-service concept poised to grow beyond Detroit. The term “lettuce wrap” doesn’t quite do justice to these thoughtful sandwiches that trade bread for Swiss chard, dino kale, and turnip and collard greens as their vessels. While not the healthiest item on the menu, the pastrami with havarti cheese and housemade Reuben sauce has been an early hit, so has the “Chardi B,” a pocket of Swiss chard stuffed with sliced rotisserie chicken, pepper jack cheese, veggies, and cilantro avocado sauce.

As downtown offices slowly begin to fill again after the pandemic-induced retreat, the lunch scene is starting to show signs of life, too. With its newly revamped look and gorgeous, plant-filled glass atrium with retractable roof, Townhouse Detroit returns to the lunch fold in luxurious style. The lunch menu features some hits from dinner, like the elegant tomato kibbeh, as well as daytime-only fare like the katsu-inspired schnitzel sandwich and the not quite Chicago-style Italian beef billed only as the “baguette.” Folks who miss the old Townhouse will be happy with the resurrection of the popular dry-aged burger with white cheddar on brioche.

Easter may be over but Sunday brunch is hoppin’ at Bunny Bunny, the deeply personal Eastern Market restaurant from life and business partners Jennifer Jackson and Justin Tootla. Though the space draws an adult crowd for its popular, ever-changing dinner service, Sundays are filled with a more familial vibe. Expect Jen’s Southern-style sweet biscuits and black pepper gravy and potato “samoosas” with tomato gravy, hinting at Tootla’s Indian heritage. This is likely the only place in town you can find fried pork chops on the menu next to tikka soft scramble with crawfish and paratha. Who knew northern Indian and southern American cuisine paired so well?

This seafood-centric jewel box in Corktown has recently grown to include a pocket-sized patio out front. When you seat just 24 inside, every little bit helps. While reservations are recommended for chef Cameron Rolka’s indoor prix fixe menu, the weather-dependent patio is first come, first served. You can’t get the full experience out here, but expect oysters, appetizers, tinned fish, and the occasional a la carte entrée or two. Star sommelier Liz Martinez recently joined the hospitality group that runs Mink, and she’s brought her worldly touch to the revamped wine list.

You can’t mention seafood in metro Detroit without tipping a hat to former Nobu chef Lloyd Roberts’ command of it at Adachi, where Roberts turns out some of the region’s best sushi and Japanese-inspired dishes. A nod to his time at Nobu, Roberts’ yuzu-miso marinated black cod is softer than butter and delivers the same richness on the palate, its citrusy notes cutting through with clarity. Burrata with Japanese eggplant is an unexpected, rich take on a springtime salad. And it almost doesn’t matter what the crudo set of the day is — it’s still the right order.

Having debuted on Livernois just north of the revitalizing Avenue of Fashion earlier this spring, Trap Vegan is a plant-based cafe that keeps things simple, taking its cues from familiar fast food menus but with a healthy twist. Burgers are the star here, with five varieties to choose from, composed of housemade patties and various plant-based toppings, plus a few salads, wraps, and bowls to round out the menu. There’s also a deep selection of smoothies like the “Thug Passion,” made from bananas, strawberries, and pineapple, which live up to Trap Vegan’s street-smart motto: “Dope, Healthy, Good AF.”

A little farther north from Trap Vegan, Spacecat V-stro is another plant-based restaurant that’s helped fill the void left by the closures of the original Detroit Vegan Soul, Nosh Pit, and Street Beet, all of which shuttered in the last year. And though it’s still carryout-only, this self-described “vegetarian comfort food laboratory” boasts outdoor seating facing the bustle of 9 Mile out front and a quieter pocket courtyard out back. Spacecat caters to both vegetarians and vegans as well as those who follow soy-free and gluten-free diets, and everything is made from scratch, from the Burmese-style tofu made from chickpeas, to the Spacecat Chkn and accompanying sauces. Brunch is served daily, too, setting it apart from other plant-based options in the area.