The November Hit List: Mr. Ji, Akoko, Barrafina Mariscos, and More

There’s plenty of precedent for this West African fine-diner, the result of Masterchef finalist William Chilila’s years of research and understanding of the region’s cuisines. The chef (Orrery, Galvin at Windows) has focused on reinterpreting classic dishes like jollof rice with smoked goat, exquisitely spiced beef suya, and pounded yam with native lobster egusi in beautiful surroundings, with a wine program from hotly touted duo Honey Spencer and Ania Smelskaya. A standout restaurant in every sense. 

Dining status: Open for dine in.

Everything the chef duo of Ana Gonçalves and Zijun Meng — more frequently known as TĀ TĀ Eatery — touches turns to gold, and this forthcoming collaboration with the cult Taiwanese fried chicken specialist is no exception. A crisp, hot fried chicken thigh sprinkled with chilli and sandwiched in a pineapple bun headlines; meanwhile, cocktails and playful side dishes, like a riff on prawn toast, or smoked tea egg with katsuobushi and smoked mayo, seal the deal. 

Dining status: Open for dine in. 

While Akoko presents the regional flavours of West Africa in rarefied surroundings, Chishuru is a no less creative and delicious affair. This anticipated (and hotly-tipped) residency in airy Brixton Arcade brings award-winning chef Joké Bakare’s vision of West African cuisine to a wider audience, with contemporary presentations of traditional dishes like charred mutton skewers, slow-cooked goat ayamase, and a standout suya of bavette all exceptional. One of the year’s exceptional restaurants — go.  

Dining status: Open for dine in. 

With the original Noble Rot hailed as an instant classic, a svelte new restaurant in Soho — in the former space of the Gay Hussar, one of most notorious haunts for London politicians — was always going to be big news. Here, innovation and a sense of tradition are captured in both a redux of one of the city’s best wine programs (the excellent selection by the glass includes 75ml tasting pours) and a menu of classic French-leaning plates from chef Alex Jackson, ex of Sardine. Jackson is a chef’s chef, and plates like eggs casino, baked Vacherin, and roast chicken with morels and vin jaune are about as good as it gets. Pro tip: Don’t miss the beef-shin goulash, a tribute to the old Hussar menu.

Dining status: Open for dine in.

Reopening their Drury Lane restaurant as a seafood-focused tapas bar was a win for the Barrafina team, already known for the city’s finest tapas in glamorous surroundings. The menu doesn’t mess around, leaning into plates of flawless (and seldom-seen) seafood like Mallorcan spiny lobster cooked in a comforting arroz cardoso, or red prawns and caviar on toasted brioche. Dropping in for a casual glass of fizz and a few plates feels like the height of understated luxury. 

Dining status: Open for dine in. 

Years in the making, chef Santiago Lastra’s restaurant has finally opened its doors in Marylebone, with a high-touch tasting menu of Mexican dishes reimagined with mostly British ingredients. His experience opening Noma Mexico and passion for local provenance (both inextricably linked) is evident in courses like a taco that sings with the flavours of sweet langoustine and smoked chili, or a whole braised short rib that slides off the bone, served with warm tortillas, salsa and pickles. 

Dining status: Open for dine in. 

Amidst a flurry of autumn openings, this acclaimed restaurant quietly reopened in a brand new space in Tooting. The concept — modern dining, ancient techniques — may sound high-concept, but what you’ll eat is straightforwardly delicious, with dazzling dishes like roasted pumpkin with honey and citrus, or smoked Chalkstream trout with a bright blackberry vinegar and tomato. For novices, a shared tasting menu of small plates makes for a perfect introduction. 

Dining status: Open for dine in. 

By virtue of its sheer existence, this sleek, all-day French restaurant in St. James bucks all of 2020’s wisdoms; it’s also a lot of fun. Inspired by the grand brasserie traditions of Paris and Lyon, expect a lot of cheese, a lot of wine, and classic dishes like a comforting roast chicken, gougeres baked with Comté, and a bouillabaisse heady with the aroma of fennel. Desserts are outstanding, and the plush dining room invites lingering.   

Dining status: Open for dine in. 

The arrival of ex-Brawn chef Marcelo Rodrigues is an exciting addition to this gem of a bistro in Stoke Newington, already beloved for its simple, seasonal approach to food and natural wine. A superb value set menu is a superb way to try Rodrigues’ cooking, with autumnal plates like an ethereal chicken liver parfait with crunchy radicchio and quince, or sweet, buttery Delica pumpkin with chestnuts and creamy stracciatella. A masterclass in comfort and seasonality. 

Dining status: Open for dine in, with wine available to take away. 

Easily a top-three taco in London, the taqueria formerly known as Pollo Feliz has relocated within Netil Market, with a new name and a refreshed focus on beef. Much of the taqueria’s runaway success lies in co-owner Michelle Salazar’s uncompromising diligence in producing the wheat tortillas of her Sonoran heritage, which are used for barbacoa of beef rib and shin, chile stewed with dried chiles and tomato, and crunchy quesadillas. There’s usually a queue, and the tacos sell out quickly, so be sure to get there early. 

Dining status: Open for takeaway.