Where to Eat in January: Lenoir, Wild Olive, Iron Rose, and More

Chef-owner Jacques Larson has been serving Charleston diners for two decades, assuming the lead role at this Italian-focused Johns Island spot 14 years ago, then opening The Obstinate Daughter a couple rivers away on Sullivan’s Island. To Larson, his time-tested formula is about nailing execution and creating a comfortable environment diners know they can come back to. “It’s that trust — knowing that you can get a familiar favorite or something special, and that’s comforting,” he told Resy’s Stephanie Burt. The place and the dishes may sound familiar, but they’re far from routine, with some of the best pasta coming out of Larson’s kitchen, like ricotta and goat cheese gnocchi, or dial up the comfort with the chef’s popular chicken Parmesan. By the bottle, Italian wines range from Sicilian reds to pinot bianco from South Tyrol, along the Austrian border.

The third location of owners Louise and Nigel Drayton’s eponymous traditional Southern food restaurant just opened last month in Hanahan’s Tanner Plantation neighborhood. Famous for their Geechie Wings, tossed in Nigel’s housemade Geechie Sauce, the Draytons also offer soul food staples like fried fish, fried chicken, pork chops, and of course sides — red rice, cornbread, mashed potatoes, collards, and more.

Call 843-552-0079 for more info.

Diners who grew up in the Carolinas (let’s hear it for the 704) are sure to find a handful of comforting classics on chef Vivian Howard’s menu. For us, it’s the cornmeal-dusted catfish, but this is hardly your run-of-the-mill fish camp fry plate. Proving her skills in the small Eastern N.C. town near where she grew up, Howard’s Kinston restaurant, Chef & The Farmer, hit the big time as the backdrop for the Peabody Award-winning PBS docuseries, “A Chef’s Life.” That led to cookbooks and other restaurants, including Lenoir, which opened in 2021. Inside a cozy corner of the downtown Renaissance hotel, you’re bound to see folks having a good time around a big oval bar, enjoying a Spittin’ Image — a sweet bourbon cocktail made with Howard’s blueberry barbecue sauce.

The Grit Counter has low-key gained a following at its latest West Montague Avenue restaurant, convenient to the airport, outlets, and North Charleston Coliseum. Serving different preparations of grits topped with decadent toppings like fried chicken, chorizo, shrimp, and chicken, the two locations — the other in Mount Pleasant — are satisfying options for the whole family. (There’s even a full bar.) The Self-Respecting Southerner bowl, with fried chicken, red rice grits, collards, and hot honey, may be the perfect indulgent reward for starting that exercise regimen in the new year — or just for any old dinner out.

Call 854-895-4748 for more info.

You know where Big John’s Tavern is on East Bay Street? Walk into Kings Road CBD next door and ask around to find your way into this reservation-only speakeasy-style bar. Plush antiques arranged into small semi-private areas make this an ideal spot to grab a few drinks with friends or a date night conversation-starter. Press a button next to your seat to summon sips chosen from a generous selection of Champagne and other wine by the bottle — or take your pick from the Big John’s Bar next door.

This tiny joint has become a local favorite since opening on James Island in 2020, with enough offbeat menu items to allow regulars to mix it up on repeated visits. The Peruvian chicken, a Bar George signature, is rotisserie roasted to a deep brown while keeping the meat juicy. Hot dogs are another staple, and where the restaurant got its name — after chef-owner Alex Lira’s uncle, George Bacalis, who made a career selling dogs in Norfolk, Va. The Greek Dog carries Bacalis-style chili, shallot, and Dijon mustard. On the “Bar” side of the name, classics get zhuzhed up, like the House Dirty Martini: start with your standard vodka martini, add yuzu and jalapeño. Pro tip: Stop by 5-6 p.m. to get tropical-themed cocktails for just $7.

Call 843-793-2231 for more info.

The menu may change but the vibe is always laid-back and welcoming at this neighborhood wine bar in Mount Pleasant’s I’On community. Rotating raw seafood offerings like oysters and crudo keep things fresh, while a half-dozen hearty apps and small plates, like smoked fish dip or a warm shrimp and scallop risotto, anchor the rest of the menu. Everyone’s a local at this intimate spot, you’d never know you’re steps from bustling East Cooper suburbia.

This James Island Chinese-inspired hot spot is changing things up for Dry January, going to a vegan menu with former Citrus Club barkeep Laura Forrest behind the bar, mixing a few low-alcohol drink options to get 2023 started in the right direction. From the kitchen, chef David Schuttenberg will feature winter squash bao and Biang Biang noodles, along with Impossible dumplings, taking cues from Guangdong cuisine and American-style Chinese takeout.

Every time you step inside, you’ll be surprised by the flavors that come out of this tiny kitchen on Folly Beach’s main drag. Curries and other Indian-influenced dishes, plus Mediterranean flavors make this an ideal spot for a cold January night at the beach — honestly, an ideal time to experience Folly in the off-season. What could be better than tikka masala (served veg, with protein add-ons) served with a Robert Zombie, a sweet and warming rum drink that’s just one of the creative cocktails on this unassuming saloon menu?

One of Charleston’s newest restaurants sits inside one of its most classic buildings. Fresh off a massive interior overhaul, the Mills House Hotel has completely reworked its culinary program, welcoming a new main dining room into this historic corner of Meeting and Queen streets. Signature cocktails come named after rose varietals, like the Easy Does It, with Tito’s vodka, lemon, orgeat, strawberries, and bitters. Grab a sip and select a few shareable bites, like the blue crab fritters or a seasonal take on the classic panzanella, with squash, pears, and beets. Updated with dark, moody interiors, this is not the same old hotel you might remember.