The February Hit List: Three Cats, Karl’s, Marrow, and More

OK, so it’s not exactly like the underground rave scene from “The Matrix Reloaded,” but stepping through the elevator airlock behind the quiet retail area of this new Clawson distillery into the tangerine glow of its speakeasy-style bar inspires a similar WTF reaction. No need to do a double-take. You are, in fact, simultaneously at one of the hottest new bars in metro Detroit and hanging out in the once-sleepy suburb of Clawson. It’s just that the cool kids have arrived and they’re all here drinking Weiss’ Michigan-made vodka, floral-forward gin, Jamaican-style rum, and corn-powered moonshine, all dressed up by a seasoned bartending staff that includes a few veterans of The Oakland and Detroit’s Standby. Try the Sunflower Swoosh for a halva-inflected riff on a Ramos Gin Fizz. And don’t be afraid of the tropical Passiflora cocktail. The mysterious ingredient listed only as “PPLG” stands for papaya, passion fruit, lime leaf, and green tea — a combination so good it should one day be recognized by its esoteric acronym. Reservations highly recommended, especially on weekends.

Korean fried chicken is having a moment in metro Detroit, with a bevy of new peddlers of the “other” KFC entering the market within months of each other. Open since December, Noori is the third American outpost of a chain that includes sister restaurants in Europe, giving new life to what was a longtime Vietnamese spot at the corner of 14 Mile and Main Street. Choose from a brief menu of boneless and bone-in chicken options in five different sauces. The “Magic Sprinkles” variety features juicy, crispy chicken dusted in a sweet and salty powder that the whole family will crave. Carry-out only for now, with dine-in planned for spring.

Call 248-850-7512 to order.

If you’re looking for a more modern sit-down version of the Korean dining experience, head across Main Street to the Lucky Duck, a sleek new small plates restaurant from chef Grant Vella. A nod to the Korean adoption agency’s nickname for the Michigan-raised chef, the Lucky Duck dishes out tasteful plays on Vella’s heritage. Think: shiitake mushroom juk with crispy enoki and black winter truffle and roasted carrots with honey gochujang glaze, alongside a lunch menu that leans heavily on superbly crispy bao buns and — you guessed it — Korean fried chicken. Here, you can wash it down with a soju highball, that is, if you’re lucky enough to get one of the most coveted reservations in town. Try walking in on a weekday or during the midweek lunch.

Call 248-565-8393 for reservations.

The glowing marquee on the front of the former Clawson Theatre sure adds life to the streetscape of Clawson’s downtown district on dark winter nights, but the warm, homespun interior and the late Matt Prentice’s creative menu pack plenty of energy inside, too, especially during weekend brunch. With lunch options still limited around town due to the pandemic, Three Cats offers a creative alternative to the chain-heavy competition. Though Prentice is gone, his beloved mushroom bisque remains alongside a menu of small plates and sandwiches that harken back to Prentice’s deli days.

Beans & Cornbread, one of the longest-running suburban soul food restaurants in the Detroit area, is coming out of the COVID-19 pandemic with a fresh new space, name, and rebrand. Cornbread Restaurant & Bar debuted in December as the sequel to Patrick Coleman’s 25-year-old Southfield staple just a few paces up the road. The laid-back jazz vibe of its predecessor is updated with a neutral gray bistro feel, but the celebration of Black culture remains via portraits of Black historical figures on the walls. Much of the beloved menu staples remain, too, like the mac ‘n’ cheese, fried pork chops, and salmon croquettes, though the tighter focus helps them shine.

Call 248-208-1680 for dine in and carry out.

Having cemented himself among Detroit noodle royalty with his three award-winning Ima restaurants, chef-operator Mike Ransom is now doubling down on the success of his Ima Midtown sandwich offerings with a neighboring concept dedicated to things between bread. Enter SuperCrisp. Located on the edge of the Wayne State University campus, SuperCrisp trades in the karaage fried sandwiches first made famous at its sister restaurant, plus Japanese- and Korean-style loaded hot dogs and burgers, topped with ingredients like kimchi and Maggi onion, or curry slaw and pineapple chutney. A couple small salads, steaming cups of Ima’s miso broth, and snacks like edamame and oki fries round out the halal- and veg-friendly menu.

Chef Kate Williams’ Lady of the House energy continues to grow at Karl’s, the little brother to the award-winning chef’s beloved but short-lived flagship restaurant, which closed mid-pandemic. Late last month, Williams introduced Lady’s roasted chicken set to the menu at Karl’s, faithfully recreated with challah migas, mushrooms, and frisee, as well as the farm greens salad, made entirely of Detroit-grown greens. With roasted chicken back in rotation, that means the return of Karl’s “best chicken salad around,” too. And no visit to this stylish, all-day diner is complete without an order of face-sized pancakes for the table.

After you’ve stuffed yourself at Karl’s, head downstairs and through the heavy curtain near the back of the Siren Hotel lobby. You’ll be transported to a disco-pink Art Deco lounge with plush velvet seating, a rose quartz bar, and a show-stopping chandelier centerpiece that is one of Detroit’s happiest accidents. (According to local lore, the chandelier is double the size of what the designers intended, due to a metric system mixup.) It’s a small room, and demand is high for Candy Bar’s expertly crafted cocktails and Instagrammable space, so reservations are highly recommended. Luckily, the hotel lobby looks more than a little like a Wes Anderson set, so overflow seating here is still a welcome reprieve from the biting February wind.

Despite the old “Paris of the Midwest” nickname and its French roots, Detroit tends to lack in the cuisine Francaise department, save for a few scattered gems. The Statler aims to fill some of that void with an upscale French bistro concept on the ground floor of a brand new apartment building on Grand Circus Park, where the historic Statler Hotel once stood. With its romantic, Patrick Thompson-designed interior and expansive menu of French staples like steak au poivre, Burgundy snails, and towers of fresh fruits de mer, the Statler is sure to be a Valentine’s season date night hot spot.

Call 313-463-7111 for reservations.

Though a handful of Detroit-area chefs have been contestants on Bravo TV’s “Top Chef,” none who still cook here full time have made it past the first few episodes. Here’s hoping that luck changes for Marrow executive chef-partner and Nest Egg Hospitality co-founder Sarah Welch, who competed on the hit cooking show’s upcoming 19th season in Houston. Get into Marrow now, before the Top Chef shine limits the availability of open seats at Welch’s butcher-restaurant hybrid in West Village. You’ll be rewarded with new chef de cuisine Eddie Moreau’s seafood skills, honed at Central Provisions in Portland, Maine, as well as Welch’s dedicated commitment to serving only the most ethically raised, locally sourced meats around. Dinner is currently centered on a five-course, $65 chef’s tasting menu as well as a few limited a la carte options.