The October Hit List: Oyster Oyster, Maketto, Maxwell Park, and More

Among the intrepid restaurants that opened during the pandemic, since this summer Oyster Oyster has finally moved into their luminous, succulent-lined dining room, and is serving an eight-course tasting menu based on the season’s best vegetables and oysters, which has been met with glowing praise. With the arrival of fall, chef Rob Rubba’s “Cornucopia” menu — commencing with a crisp fried nest of celeriac, smoked tofu, and garlic scapes, followed by roasted red ace beet with cabbage and black truffle jus — is ideal, especially when beverage director Sarah Horvitz pairs that fare with a biodynamically farmed Bordeaux red. Another great match: Domaine de Saint Pierre’s Macvin from Jura with the shiitake chip cookie at dessert.

When you’re rolling deep, say with the entire kickball team, trust in Sonny’s, with its massive fully covered and conditioned pizza and wine garden, for hefty trays of grandma pizza, eggplant Parm, and heaping Caesar salads to feed the whole squad. Just add bottles of their fizzy red pizza wine, skin-contact grüner veltliner by the liter, or even four-pack tallboys of fruity-sour beers. And consider Sonny’s for a Halloween pre-game at their Abbondanza: natural wine party with DJ Sanitize, playing a mix of disco/italo/house music.

Whether it’s a low-key date night or just catching up with friends, head to Lulu’s for its enchanting Sante Fe vibes and delectable toasts, dips, and such. You can keep it light and fresh with shrimp ceviche on corn tostadas, grilled carrot salad, and their smoked whitefish dip. Or live más with green chile white queso dip and a spread of smoked and braised beef short ribs with hot n’ puffy New Mexican fry bread, plus all the accoutrements. All the better with a savory bottle of Cornas syrah from Domaine Clape or a magnum of Albahra grenache from Envínate; both are well worth the splurge.

For scenic views overlooking the main drag of Adams Morgan with fine beers in hand, head up to Roofers Union. Between their esquites dip, the mahogany sriracha honey-glazed wings, and hearty Maine mussels steamed with beer and andouille and served with hand-cut fries, you’ve got yourself a fine spread. In the beer department we’re all in on their sours from all the local greats, like the guava gose from Väsen, and Aslin’s berry creamsicle sour, “Volcano Sauce.”

You may remember Masako Morishita’s widely acclaimed, yet elusive “Otabe” pop-ups over the years. Now executive chef at Maxwell Park, we are now blessed to have her signature Japanese comfort food to pair with their 50-plus wines by the glass. Think dashi and peanut pesto heirloom tomato salad, grilled tinned sardines marinated in tamari, chile, and garlic (a staple at her mother’s bar in Kobe), or her rendition of the JDM McDonald’s teriyaki-glazed wagyu beef burger.

No reservations.

Since last year, chef Christian Irabien has moved into this brick-and-mortar space, now serving all manner of Mexican temptations beyond their incomparable burritos, for lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. Enchiladas verdes to start and abuelita’s tres leches cake to finish are mandated with dinner. The roasted whole fish with black garlic mojo de ajo, alongside their rich and smoky ember-roasted sweet potatoes with salsa negra, is a strong play. Or start off your Sunday with all the essential food groups with a plate of huevos rancheros and chorizo rojo, and stay hydrated with a pitcher of sotol mules.

Come for afternoon tea and crystal shrimp dumplings, or later for dinner for a show-stopping plate of laab; made here with spicy pork sausage, bone marrow, and topped with a fried egg. We’re also craving the wok-fried yu choy with oyster sauces, olives, and anchovy, and the roasted red pork shoulder lo mein. Dine inside for the chic Japanese-minimalist design and pulsating hip-hop soundtrack (you’ll pass through Cool Kids Vinyl shop en route to the dining room), or for a more serene night, dine outside in their courtyard and request a table in the “bird cage.”

Sitting at the bar of Reveler’s Hour with a plate of pasta and a bottle of wine on a crisp fall evening is a whole mood we’ve looked forward to all summer long. First, their apéritif cocktails are a must — think Julia Child’s martini, or a sherry negroni. The stracciatella with delicata squash agrodolce makes a fine opener, then follow with the arugula pappardelle with Marsala braised rabbit, and a bottle of Fatalone’s soulful primitivo rosato from Puglia. Also consider the pecorino cheese cake, with plum preserves and candied hazelnuts, along with a pour of amaro for dessert.

Drinking a Märzen by the liter with a succulent currywurst at The Berliner, under shelter of the Whitehurst Freeway above, with scenic views of Key Bridge and the Georgetown waterfront is a must this October. Indeed, few beer gardens come correct as the Berliner with their deep roster of German lagers on draft, and their array of regional German sausages (from the delicate boudin-esque Berliner brat, to the smoky Mettwurst, and bacon and caraway-seasoned Wurttemberg brat), all housemade, served on a bun with your choice of fixins. For dessert, look to the Black Forest brownie sundae; it’s probably been too long since you’ve had one.

For reservations, call 202-621-7000.

The long-awaited premier of Daru, conceived by chef Suresh Sundas (by way of Rasika and Maydan), and cocktail guru Dante Datta (previously of the Columbia Room), has arrived and we’re thoroughly hooked on their Indian-ish cuisine and cocktails. You might start with jackfruit phulka tacos and a Hari daiquiri, scented with mint and lime. Under mains, we’re keen on their sea bass paturi — steamed in banana leaf with a red chile, turmeric yogurt sauce — and this gorgeous Nariyal braised lamb shank, in a rich coconut, saffron, and kashmiri chile gravy, and perhaps their cashew, saffron, and ginger-infused Kesari old fashioned after dinner.

For reservations, call 202-388-1848.