The January Hit List: The Grocery, Jackrabbit Filly, Juan Luis, and More

This restaurant’s beer bower courtyard was always a draw, and now, with heaters installed and having been named one of the safest Charleston dining options by The Post and Courier’s Hanna Raskin, it’s become a scene, albeit a socially distanced one. Diners may opt to sit inside as well, to enjoy an abbreviated menu that includes some of chef Bob Cook’s classic hits, from spicy pickled shrimp served with rye, to the artisan meat share burger, a phoenix from his former kitchen’s menu. Desserts from chef Heather Hutton, including a huckleberry cheesecake, send diners off sweetly.

Dining status: Choice of outdoor or indoor dining; takeout and delivery available.

Barbecue was one of the few winners of 2020’s restaurant year. Then there was Rodney Scott’s 2020. Not only has he consistently been making some of the best whole hog ‘cue in the country since his teens, but the wider world got the full details about his craft and his story in an episode of Netflix’s Chef’s Table. If you aren’t already in line for mac and cheese, a pulled pork sandwich, and some collards, you should probably plan to queue up soon. Crowds haven’t stopped coming since they hit pause on the TV remote.

Dining status: Choice of outdoor or indoor dining; drive-through, takeout and delivery available.

One of the new generation of “mom and pop” restaurants, Park Circle’s Jackrabbit Filly is owned by husband-and-wife team Corrie and Shuai Wang, and feels like it’s been a part of the Charleston scene forever, even though it’s only been a little more than a year. Shuai has most assuredly spread his creative wings here — even beyond the excellent offerings of the duo’s Short Grain Food Truck — at once hitting a tone that is playful while never wavering from a dedication to craft. That means favorites like Sichuan hot karaage, and pork and cabbage dumplings, alongside a special board with fare such as lobster Rangoon dip with waffle fries, just because he can. A focus on community extends to local purveyors and guest-chef nights, too, also making this a magnet for the area’s hospitality community.

Dining status: Choice of outdoor or indoor dining; takeout available.

It’s hard to pin down the enduring appeal of FIG into one succinct phrase, but when the restaurant opened back up for curbside service in late April, let’s just say the city seemed to sigh with relief — thrilled to once again have chef Jason Stanhope’s selections, even if they came curbside in a box. That comfort has extended through the seasons as indoor dining resumed, and Charleston has proved it’s still craving chicken liver paté, perfectly paired wine from FIG’s fantastic list, and anything Stanhope wants to do with Lowcountry seafood.

Dining status: Choice of outdoor or indoor dining; drive-through, curbside pickup available.

Before there was an “Upper King,” there was Fast & French, the casual Broad Street spot whose petite space packed them in after Friday Art Walks, or before plays and concerts. Diners came for the soup du jour, the cheese plate, and $4 glasses of house red, squeezing in for counter service from its opening in 1984 until 2020, when a petite space became more liability than cozy. While the restaurant’s outdoor dining permit has expired, Charlestonians continue to support the struggling spot as best they can through to-go orders of croque monsieur, and social media solidarity.   

Dining status: Indoor dining and online ordering and pickup available.

Speaking of Upper King, Indaco is still going strong, now welcoming Mark Bolchoz as executive chef, fresh from a stint at Peninsula Grill. Since January in Charleston is often cloudy and cold (read: pizza season) the restaurant’s open kitchen and brick ovens beckon, with a delectable bianca pizza topped with mozzarella, ricotta, fontina, smoked manchego, garlic, and Parmesan, as well as plenty of pasta to warm up a winter evening.

Dining status: Choice of outdoor or indoor dining; call 843-727-1228 for reservations. Takeout and delivery still available.

The comfort food trend shows no sign of slowing. In Charleston that means fried chicken and oysters, of course. Get them side by side at Leon’s Oyster Shop on its fancy new hard-top filling station-style patio cover. The yellow umbrellas are gone, but the same delicious chicken sandwich, Siam salad, and chargrilled oysters you’ll regret sharing are there, which is cause for celebration. And for that, don’t forget the killer Champagne list. 

Dining status: Choice of outdoor or indoor dining; takeout available.

While picnic tables proved to be a power move for restaurants this year, Lewis Barbecue had them installed years ago, offering diners plenty of seating options for enjoying their smoked meats. What’s new to the barbecue courtyard is Juan Luis, a permanent food truck that’s serving owner John Lewis’ Tex-Mex hits from his popular pop-up. Those include handmade corn tortillas, burritos served “Christmas style” — smothered in red and green Hatch chile sauce — and queso so good it might bring a tear to your eye, even without Willie Nelson on the jukebox.

Dining status: Open for indoor and patio dining, as well as takeout.

Technically The Grocery is just off King Street on Cannon, but it’s a world away from the base-bumping college bars that have mushroomed between Calhoun and Cannon in the last few years. The restaurant recently celebrated a decade in business, and it’s clear that chef Kevin Johnson’s cooking has only gotten better. Last summer he had the city clamoring for his to-go “softie” sandwiches (deep-fried soft-shell crab), and this winter he’s tempting diners with a wide range of flavors, from a duck liver mousse served on Jimmy Red Corn cornbread, to charred broccoli with mint, crispy farro, and ricotta. 

Dining status: Choice of outdoor or indoor dining; takeout available.

If you’re thinking this is a dainty jewel-box of a cocktail bar, you’re right, but just like Megan Deschaine’s fabulous cocktail menu, there’s more to this spot than meets the eye. Once a month, chef Jonathan Doar cooks a fabulous Sunday supper inspired by his time in Italy, simply called “Italian Night.” The red sauce will be flowing again this month, and rest assured it’s more than a casual pop-up: Sishes such as Mepkin Abbey funghi con tartufo nero rosato make it a special event, especially with a Sunday side of prosecco. The next event is coming up January 31, so plan accordingly. 

Dining status: Choice of outdoor or indoor dining.