Best Of Houston: Theodore Rex, Georgia James, Nancy’s Hustle

Georgia James is Chris Shepherd’s brand-new steakhouse, informed in part by One Fifth’s “Steak” stint and housed in the space that was formerly his award-winning restaurant, Underbelly. With a razor sharp focus on high-quality, well-sourced ingredients and a nuanced wine list that highlights obscure regions and varietals, it’s not your traditional chophouse. Come with a party of at least four to enjoy the chef’s signature “baller board”—a giant platter piled high with the restaurant’s very best offerings.

Justin Yu, formerly of Oxheart—Houston’s lauded gem—ditched his fine dining outlook for something a bit more casual. The result is Theodore Rex, a contemporary bistro built upon an obsession with hyper-seasonal Texas ingredients. Menus are “subject to change on a daily basis due to availability, quality or boredom”—so you know you’re in good hands.

Incorporating the best of Neapolitan cuisine and combining it with a Milanese sensibility, Tony’s is a cherished fine dining institution operated by longtime Houston restaurateur, Tony Vallone. Artful servings of crisp braised octopus, rigatoni bianco, and dry-aged duck ala presse are served in an airy and elegant setting, defined by white tablecloths and an old-school atmosphere.

A neighborhood bistro with a cool-kid aesthetic, Nancy’s Hustle serves up innovative New American cuisine. Here, dishes range from  shareable (house-made ricotta with salted tomatillos, marigold, and sourdough crackers) to large-format (roasted duck breast a l’orange with Carolina gold rice grits and sesame dukkah), and are best when paired with the bar’s seasonal cocktails and natural wines.

At Helen Greek Food & Wine, the kitchen explores the varied regions of Greece, dishing out dips, feta-brined chicken, and tea-steeped rabbit. All dishes are prepared to emulate the glorious traditions of tavernas, while soaring brick walls—reclaimed from the New York City subway—enclose the cozy space. Best of all, guests can buy bottles to take home from the impressive, all-Greek wine list.

The fact that Presidio is a restaurant (and sometimes music venue) built by two longtime friends is surely felt. A warm, inviting atmosphere is the backdrop for shareables, like sweet potato beignets, and family-style plates, such as “Granny Rose’s” grass-fed beef tacos. Don’t miss the house cocktails, either.

Eloise Nichols takes its name from the grandmother (“a no-nonsense, classic Texas beauty”) of its sibling operators. Thus, the environment is meant to evoke the leisurely ambiance of her living room. Wicker chairs are abound, light pours through the space during the day, and easygoing fare is served from breakfast through late-night, with highlights including cast-iron seared chicken and angel hair pasta with sundried tomatoes and basil.

Located just above a tap room that bears the same name, Harold’s Restaurant brings Southern and Creole cuisine to the Heights. Come here to try delightful renditions of chicken-and-sausage gumbo, Gulf shrimp & grits, and more. Grab a seat on the upstairs terrace looking out on W 19th Street, and note that Harold’s is bona fide neighborhood staple.

Over in Cypress Hills, Jaxton’s Bistro is a regional eatery through and through:the wood-fired grill and brick oven burn local Post Oak wood, imparting a distinct depth of flavor in the Southern-style cuisine. When weather allows, dishes like crab bruschetta and bourbon-glazed ribs are best enjoyed on the lake-front patio.

Since opening in 1975, Baba Yega has become a Montrose neighborhood institution,due in part to the crowd-pleasing menu (think burgers, sandwiches, and salads, as well as  vegan and vegetarian options for each dish). Retreat to the lovely outdoor space for a meal beneath a century-old oak tree, or out on the veranda, overlooking the property’s lush garden.