The September Hit List: Anise, Tejas, Edoko Omakase, and More

This highly anticipated Mediterranean wine bar and restaurant, overseen by Junior Borges of neighboring Meridian, had us at “sharable mezze.” Among the irresistible lineup, the crispy octopus with pimentón aioli and white beans beckons, as does the lamb shoulder tangine, and, who can resist a whole roasted branzino? There are also flatbreads from head baker and pastry chef David Madrid, and did we mention lunch, brunch and breakfast are on the menu soon? The handsome space spills out to an enticing patio, perfect for fall temps and social distancing.

Craving healthy Tex-Mex? You’ve come to the right place. At Tejas, a two-year-old Bishop Arts restaurant, the focus is on creating bright, fresh flavors, all of which separate this fare from the heavy, “did-I-really-eat-that-entire-combo-plate?” mentality. There’s “Skinny Fajitas” served with avocado, guajillo carrots, and cabbage-roasted corn, plus gluten-free versions of charro beans and elote. The brisket and queso enchiladas may not qualify as quite so virtuous, but they’re worth a deep dive.

Jose is another entry bringing a fresh perspective to Mexican (specifically Jaliscan) fare, from no less than noted chef Anastacia Quinoñes. The seasonal aguachile (marinated fish with lime and chile) is a remarkable way to begin a meal here, and the dish matches the vibrant dining room. Among the other resoundingly innovative offerings, look to quesadilla dorada (fried, stuffed quesadilla with carne asada and Oaxaca cheese) and short rib enchiladas. And the carrot habanero soup, especially as the weather turns a touch cooler, satisfies in nuanced ways, with dabs of fried masa seemingly hidden (and welcome) in the broth.

Call 214-891-5673 for reservations.

This CityLine staple, one of three locations in North Texas, proves a welcome respite for weary shopping-worn legs, or for those just looking for innovative global “backyard” cuisine and cocktails. Diners can get things started with crispy five-spice calamari or blue cheese potato chips, while even bolder flavors await. From the Aztec-style tortilla soup to the smoked pork empanadas from the wood-fired oven, the fare is familiar, yet creative in execution. Regulars know to save room for the chocolate mousse cake with strawberry amaretto sauce, or at the very least, Jasper’s Godiva Chocolate Martini.

At this two-year-old downtown trattoria, Neapolitan pizzas reign, in part because of chef Dino Santonicola, who previously manned the ovens at Cane Rosso. The rest of the menu is wildly, excitedly, eclectic, with highlights including housemade buccatini and burrata, and Mediterranean octopus with prosciutto and fusilli pesto. There’s even a nod to the keto diners, with a Keto Bolognese made with Miracle Noodles and a Super Jeff sandwich (Italian meats with mixed greens, Calabrian chile mayo and giardinera) — which is worth ordering just for the name alone.

This Irving gem opened just as the pandemic began, but the outstanding food here has withstood what most would consider unfortunate timing. The omakase part of the meal here means the decision-making is left to the chef, and that’s a good thing. Among the standouts are the hamachi collar with roasted shishitos, miso eggplant with shiitake mushrooms, and a seafood toban, with Hokkaido scallops, mussels, and clams in a spicy red miso stew. There’s also sushi a la carte and bento boxes at lunch, all in a space that caters to the everyman diner in the most delicious way.

Call 972-600-8626 for reservations.

The cocktails are strong — and complicated at this new anti-dive. For instance, the old fashioned here has more than 33 different ingredients. The food doesn’t mess around either, from a Burmese tea leaf salad to Texas wagyu tomahawks anointed with miso-infused butter. Foie gras potstickers with a dried cherry ponzu sauce and seared scallops au poivre add pulchritude to the disarmingly attractive menu. Add those sturdy beverages to the mix, and, well, Deep Ellum has got a taste sensation on its hands.

Call 469-998-0013 for reservations, or walk in for cocktails.

Not your average gastropub, Barley & Board continues to impress, with a keen focus on innovative fare featuring seasonal ingredients, plus craft brews. Now with a new location, patrons in The Colony are learning more about the concept, which has won over Denton diners since 2015. Sure, the burger is terrific here, but there are also other unavoidably delicious options. The Masa gnocchi with blistered shishitos and a tomato cream sauce shows distinctive depth, while the Sweet Pig/Angrier Bird entree of St. Louis ribs and Nashville hot chicken is ideal for the indecisive. Build-your-own charcuterie boards are a hallmark, and make the meal memorable.

The Star in Frisco holds many haunts — not to mention memories of haunting seasons for its biggest tenant, the Dallas Cowboys — but Bottled in Bond has guests swooning over an over-the-top menu, which holds up well with the aged whiskey and craft cocktails. The food is not top-of-mind gastropub fare, but rather steeped in intrigue. The deep-fried quail legs tossed in an agrodulce and the scallion and cheddar potato beignets are starters of substance, and the jalapeno-marinated jumbo shrimp with red pepper Jack cheese grits offer a spicy, nuanced turn. There’s also a bourbon and applewood bacon pairing, with a flight of three whiskeys, that’ll stop any Cowboys fan from crying in their beer.

This luxe, almost two-year-old steakhouse, from the lovable Australian hunk-o’-chef, continues to draw celebratory diners, and for good reason. The seasonal menu is inspired by Stone’s favorite ingredients, like Australian Blackmore wagyu, and the food reads as regal. For instance, diners can choose from four different kinds of caviar served with housemade brioche, and may move on to an Oysters and Pearls (smoked trout roe) or a Hiramasa (kingfish) crudo appetizer. A mango, melon, and feta gazpacho is fetchingly light amid the heavier steak-and-Hasselback-potatoes fare.

Call 469-466-8263 for reservtions.