1. Bar Volpe
Located just a few blocks from her name-making Modenese restaurant Fox & The Knife, chef Karen Akunowicz’s second venture retains the focus on freshly made pasta but switches its gaze to Southern Italy and wood-fired cooking. What that translates to is plates of tangy lemon spaghetti with Jonah crab and breadcrumbs, or thin sheets of handkerchief pasta folded into braised chicken, Tuscan kale, and chanterelles in a rich Marsala sauce. It all goes down in a sleek, wood-filled space that looks like it could have been the first-class dining car on the Rome-to-Milan route circa 1963.