Gado Gado owners Thomas and Mariah Pisha-Duffly opened Oma’s Takeway in Division Street’s former Whiskey Soda Lounge last fall, bringing their pandemic pop-up into permanent residency. In the months since, the couple has reimagined the space, transforming it from a takeaway to a 70s-pop-art-inspired hideaway. Some signature items remain, like the corn fritters and the burger with fried shallots, but the new menu takes a turn into Chinese barbecue. One Plexiglass-shielded corner of the restaurant is dedicated to those meats, like charcoal-roasted game hens and pork belly served over rice and pork spare ribs glazed in fish sauce caramel. Elsewhere, soft shell crabs are slathered with salted egg yolk mayo on a sweet roll with green papaya slaw and spot prawns find refuge in sambal terasi and curry leaf. The beverage menu, from Eem’s Eric Nelson, gets the signature “Nelson” treatment, with classic and vacation cocktails surprising and pleasantly shocking at every turn.