
Resy Features
A Day Behind the Scenes at Lutèce
Lutèce, in the Georgetown neighborhood of Washington, D.C., has become one of the perfect American examples of what the French have dubbed the néobistro — a specific sort of restaurant, originating in Paris, where talented chefs serve noteworthy food in everyday bistro surroundings. Chef Matt Conroy and his wife Isabel Coss leaned on their love of French cooking but amended it with a modern sensibility and a broader range of flavors. (Which they further explore at their Mexican restaurant, Pascual.)
As Americans revisit French flavors once again, the restaurant sits in the intersection of tradition, nostalgia, and the future. We went behind the scenes with photographer Rey Lopez to see how Lutèce turns out such great food in its tiny storefront space.
Related story: How Lutèce Became America’s Perfect Take on the Néobistro

Getting ready to bake the kitchen's beloved sourdough focaccia, which is prepared each day before service.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

Breaking down ducks in the kitchen.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

A member of the team breaks down a box in the compact dining room before service. The limited space means the dining room is used for prep and other tasks during the day.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

Preparing pages of the wine list before service at Lutèce. Like its néobistro counterparts in Paris, natural wine plays a major role at the restaurant.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

A scented candle designed for Lutèce's five-year anniversary, which took place this spring.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

The Lutèce team at lineup. The present-day restaurant was built on the bones of the former Café Bonaparte in D.C.'s Georgetown neighborhood.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

General manager David Sales inspects the dining room. As well as its popular dinner service, the dining room opens for lunch at the weekend.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

A couple peers in through the front window just before opening.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

Showtime! A cook tends to Napa cabbage over an open flame for a dish that will pair the meaty cabbage's smokiness to the creaminess of tahini.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

A crudo dish receives a final touch before being sent to a guest's table. Chef Matt Conroy and Isabel Coss's love of Mexican cooking shows up in the brightness of each dish's flavors.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

FInishing a risotto-like dish of heirloom grains with stinging nettles.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

A current duck preparation includes blackberries and a sauce Bigarde, part of a classic duck à l'orange recipe.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

Dishes arrive at the table. The restaurant runs a popular chef's table, situated in front of the open kitchen to allow guests to catch all the theatrics of a busy service.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

Putting the final touch on the chocolate banana tart. The restaurant's dessert offerings have become renowned, guided by chef Isabel Coss's formative years as a pastry chef in Mexico City and New York.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown

And to finish? Choux buns filled with birthday cake flavored pastry cream.
Photo by Rey Lopez for Resy
Lutèce
Georgetown