Michelle Salazar de la Rocha, Chef and Owner

Close

A Year in the Life

Michelle Salazar de la Rocha, Chef and Owner

In a very difficult year for London’s hospitality industry, the emergence of a taqueria in Hackney’s Netil Market — opened a month before the first lockdown — selling exquisite Sonoran cuisine came as much-needed good news.

Still, it hasn’t been an easy ride for Sonora co-founders and partners Michelle Salazar de la Rocha and Sam Napier. With the market and surrounding London Fields a focal point for many East Londoners, the demand for their increasingly-popular tacos has often been overwhelming.

“It was incredibly busy and impossible to handle”, Michelle says. “The entire neighbourhood became this food destination so we could never (and still can’t) meet the demand. We had to keep reminding ourselves that we were in control of how our business would operate and to stop trying to adapt to the crowds.”

As the year progresses, she hopes to be able to return home to Mexico to see her family, whom she hasn’t seen since 2019. Additionally, she hopes for customers to show the same consideration they’ve demonstrated the past year. “Please be patient and respectful to the person behind the till that’s serving you your favourite meal or a nice cup of coffee. They’re doing their best, I promise.”

From Sonora’s first days to being brought to tears by a taste of home, her story of the past 12 months follows.

March 2020. A month after opening we went to Copenhagen. We had amazing food from Sanchez and were contacted to do our first interview. Our last taste of freedom.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

April 2020. Two weeks into the first lockdown, we closed but decided to keep working by selling our tortillas and delivering them ourselves. Pollo Feliz had only existed for six weeks and we truthfully didn't expect to sell a single pack.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

April 2020. Sam [Napier, Sonora co-founder and Michelle's partner] mid-delivery in early lockdown ghost town Soho. He was on furlough at the Prince Charles Cinema.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

May 2020. We got samples of Mexican avocados before reopening. They brought actual tears to my eyes. Homesickness at an all-time high.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

May 2020. We reopened our stall with all the restrictions and started rotating our menu every weekend. It was chaos and I had my first serious cut. The G&T was crucial in the recovery.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

June 2020. First day out to the park. We could finally meet friends for cans outside, so we travelled an hour down to Peckham. It rained.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

July 2020. Our Ceviche recipe was featured in the Community Comfort cookbook. This was a turning point. It gave us a different value to our work. We realised that our food mattered and felt part of something bigger than us.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

August 2020. After months of non-stop work, we managed to escape London. We had fish and chips on the beach in Littlehampton.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

September 2020. We couldn't go to Sonora [in Mexico], so we brought it here. We decided to ditch the chicken and focus on more traditional food. Rebranding as Sonora, we moved to a (slightly) bigger stall.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

October 2020. I hadn't been home since 2019, so video calls are crucial and constant. My cats met — they love each other.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

November 2020. Ups and downs in lockdown 2. After a scary busy day at the market, my bike was stolen. Tired and defeated, we took the train back home.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

December 2020. We took a long December break. After an eternal isolation and multiple tests, we managed to spend Xmas with Sam's family. (or we didn't — Xmas was cancelled)

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

January 2021. Our team of two grew. We hired two amazing people that serve our food every weekend.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

February 2021. A machine we ordered four months prior finally arrived. The first move into big tortilla production. It's terrifying.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

March 2021. Looking for a bigger place to fit the machine...

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

March 2021. The one constant through the insane chaos was our little family unit.

Image Courtesy Michelle Salazar de la Rocha

Read More Stories From Resy's Special Project: A Year in the Life of London's Restaurant Workers

A Year in the Life

Michelle Salazar de la Rocha, Chef and Owner

Discover More in London ›