Where to Eat in October: Irwins, Townsend, Frankford Hall, and More

In case you missed it, Eighth Street’s historic Bok building has exported several critically acclaimed food businesses —  Emily Riddell of Machine Shop, Second Daughter Baking Co., and now Irwins, one of Bon Appétit’s 50 best new spots in 2022.

Since reopening under chef Michael Ferreri in spring 2021, Irwins Upstairs has become a destination restaurant hopping with happy tourists, visiting older suburbanites … and national critics. Known for rustic and traditionally-grounded Sicilian seafood and handmade pasta dishes, the menu has expanded to allow for contemporary innovations using regional products, and is complemented with a natural-wine program. This fall’s lineup will include squash with Gorgonzola and pistachios; tuna Bolognese; vegan mushroom caponata; and apple crumble with fig leaf ice cream. Can’t decide? Opt for the $85 tasting menu.

Either way, claim a table now, before it’s too late.

If you dined at Messina Social Club last month, head to Fishtown to welcome their sister restaurant, where Pennsylvania-grown wine and produce take center stage.

Chester County’s Wayvine winery has brought its tasting room license to life, partnering with chef Jason Cichonski to develop a unique experience that fits just 30 to 40 diners. It’s an understated vibe, with its bright peach and white interior. You might see some familiar faces from Messina, but chef Alexander Beninato is carving out a distinctive Italian identity that plays on seasonality.

Expect familiar plates like herb-salt focaccia, crudos, plus warm and cold starters to share. There will also be six to eight pastas, like earthy lamb ragu over silky pappardelle, or blood-red beet ravioli lightened with hibiscus and sumac butter sauce — all to be paired with an exciting lineup of Wayvine wines (available for to-go purchase as well). Future rollouts will include more Pennsylvania partners across beer, cider, and spirits.

If you think South Philly ends at the lakes, then you haven’t explored deep enough. Vibrancy is returning to the Navy Yard thanks to infrastructure funding and expansion including outdoor public art installations, over 20 acres of parks and a mile-long waterfront trail.

Gatehouse is the point of entry on Broad Street, feeding an eager audience of nearby employees, new visitors, and regulars attending stadium games and concerts. There’s a thoughtful culinary approach that makes pregame comfort food staples — burgers, fries, wings, and nachos — widely popular and special. Spicy tuna nachos are a bright and crispy starter. The BLT is rich but not too heavy, with its thick-cut bacon and Jersey tomatoes (pro tip: add a filet of medium-rare salmon if you’re extra hungry). The kielbasa Reuben is a flavorful twist that works exceedingly well. Also of note are the burger and cocktail specials that change every week, along with outdoor live music and tailgating parties during Eagles home games.

Call 215-282-3184 for reservations.

While Philly is revered for its casual attitude toward dining out, places like Townsend remain exceptional examples of fine dining. From the warm welcome upon entrance to its natural-light-filled archway, this Passyunk Avenue mainstay remains a luxurious treat.

French-inspired fare is still the focus, available as a tasting menu or à la carte. And while dinner is an obvious choice, may we humbly suggest splurging for a brunch reservation. The kitchen has a delicate hand in reimagining star ingredients from dinner as savory brunch items; consider the steamed cockles in a creamy, herby sauce. Or try the yeast-based malted waffles. The classic eggs Benedict is tried and true, as is the steak and eggs; the latter comes with a layered, crispy potato rosti, aka the best kind of hash brown.

If you are often burdened with choosing a place to eat that keeps everyone happy, you need Clementine’s on Broad on your short list. The latest concept from Tela’s Market & Kitchen has a wide-ranging menu, and a welcome diversity reflected in food, staff, and diners, from pre-concert crowds to college students on a budget. Free coffee is offered during monthly neighborhood clean-up sessions; when needed, the restaurant also becomes a free community meeting space.

Many large plates are priced under $30, and flow out of the kitchen as they’re ready. Look for fall iterations of popular dishes: pumpkin agnolotti and housemade sweet potato gnocchi, plus drinks like an old fashioned with ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom bitters.

Also stay tuned for the launch of their zero-proof menu, devised by current general manager Jesse Andreozzi. The gist is that everyone should have the same positive dining experience; that’s evident the moment you arrive.

Second Street in Northern Liberties has long been a thoroughfare of variety in dining, and Pera Turkish Cuisine is the latest addition. The blue- and white-tiled restaurant is a vibrant modern BYOB inspired by traditional Turkish ingredients and slow-cooking techniques. While 70% of the menu includes imported Turkish products like chickpeas, the rest is sought out from suburban farms and markets. An array of Mediterranean spices, like maras peppers (crushed dry hot pepper with a mellow heat), sumac, and dried oregano lend a depth of flavor to eggplant, lamb, chicken, and liver.

Families from Turkey, Lebanon, Israel, Greece, Albania, and other bordering nations are frequent diners, often speaking in their native tongues while splitting plates of döner, lamb manti, cubes of moussaka, and arnavut cigeri (pan-fried liver). Typical drink pairings include arak with water and ice, Turkish coffee, and tea. Or grab an ancient world wine from Jet Wine Bar to complement the meal.

No reservations. Find more info here.

Just off Germantown Avenue in a former farmers market is a gathering space for families, pets, and hotel guests. There are Resys here in two flavors: Market at the Fareway grants you access to seating at the Market’s beer garden (listed under “Patio” and “High Top”); otherwise settle in at Chestnut Hill Brewery’s Taproom.

In the Taproom, you can order from the full Chestnut Hill Brewery menu, which includes beer brewed on-site along with Neapolitan wood-fired pizza, small plates, salads, and sandwiches. Table service outside in the beer garden is available and handy during busier times. (We’re partial to Trivia Night every Wednesday at 7 p.m. Also there’s live music starting in November on Saturday nights.)

Okay, so Oktoberfest technically occurs in September, but isn’t October the actual best time of year to sip on dark, broody beers?  In which case, see you at Frankford Hall.

The Frankford Avenue beer garden has been serving German-style beers and well-known Eastern European favorites on Frankford Avenue since 2010. While the bros might come out at night, locals know to swing by for afternoon hangs and make the most of the year-round indoor/outdoor space for Eagles games, movie night Mondays, or PlayArts kids programming on Sundays.

In recent years, the selections have shifted toward more German specialty drafts (ask about smoked beers), sampler plates of potato pancakes, wiener schnitzel, and even vegan sausages. Outside the TVs are on, and the fire pits are going, so staying here all day is a no-brainer even as the cold arrives.

The Cicala family has mastered Italian hospitality. Chef-owner Joe Cicala’s philosophy at Cícala at the Divine Lorraine is to treat Pennsylvania and the mid-Atlantic as if they were a province of Southern Italy.

Seasonality dictates the menu here, with researched historic dishes dating back hundreds of  years from small southern Italian villages. But the kitchen often combines local ingredients with those traditional preparations, and leaves room for more casual service outside of the formal hotel dining room — like monthly backyard pizza popups, black and white truffle-themed dinners, and afternoon wine-tasting classes. With each return visit, there’s a clear impression of an evolving local cuisine, one based in deep history.

Call 267-886-9334 for reservations.

South Street has been in a rolling state of change for decades, so when the Royal Theater reopened with Lowcountry fare as Rex at the Royal, Philadelphians were ready to embrace it. The historic but newly rejuvenated 7,000-square-foot restaurant is led by Brooklyn native and longtime South Carolina resident executive chef Aaron Paik, who seeks to honor early-20th century Center City Southwest, which stood at the time as the cultural center of Black American life, with the grand Royal Theater as its anchor. Rooted in Southeast Atlantic coastal agriculture, there’s a focus on shellfish, vegetables, and pork. And don’t miss the smoked brisket with peas and skillet cornbread — the brisket easily falls apart without a knife.

Or swing by for burger, shot, and beer specials, a carry-over from REX 1516, on Sunday and Monday nights. And Tuesdays are prime for date night with nostalgic live jazz for no additional cover.

Call 267-319-1366 for reservations.