Quail shish at The Baring. Photo courtesy of The Baring. Credit: JW Howard

Resy LineupLondon

The Resy Lineup: Tuscan Pairings, ESEA Heritage Month, Affordable Tasting Menus and More

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Welcome to the Resy Lineup, your regular fix of recommendations on what to eat, drink, and see right now, updated on a weekly basis.

In this week’s edition: a dreamy Tuscan dinner, one of London’s most exciting new wine bars, a quail dish worth the trip, and much more.

The Restaurant Rec

Having quietly opened several weeks ago, Islington boozer The Baringhas steadily picked up attention from discerning gourmands, who visit for Turkish-inspired plates like quail shish and fork-tender suckling pig with white beans. It’s culminated in critical praise that cements it as a must-visit for North Londoners – it’s the kind of place we all wish we had down our street, and a new benchmark for outstanding pub cooking.

 

The Reasonable Splurge

The cost of living is unavoidable, but it’s still well within the realms of possibility to have a special evening at a top-notch restaurant without remortgaging. Case in point – the tasting menu at Yeni which doesn’t skimp on quality and comes in at £59. Check out our guide to London’s best affordable tasting menus for more ideas.

 

The Drinks Proposal

A new crop of natural wine bars is cementing the city’s status as a destination for discerning oenophiles, and one of the best is Half Cut Market, an excellent neighbourhood spot run by Noble Rot alum Holly Wilcocks. Expect cherrypicked bottles from the city’s best importers alongside familiar favourites, with one of London’s most exciting kitchen residencies in Hot 4 U on the pans if you’re hungry.

 

The Event Invite

Chef Lewis de Haas of East London favourite Crispin is teaming up with chef Ambra Papa of the legendary Petersham Nurseries on 8 September for five incredible courses that will take diners on a journey through Papa’s Tuscan heritage. Expect dishes like fresh sardines with citrus and garlic; fish stew with creamy mayo and dill, and chestnut cake with Vin Santo cream, with Tuscan wines being poured through the night. Book here.

 

The Weekend Pairing

September is East and Southeast Asian (ESEA) Heritage Month in Britain, which means a new crop of exciting events exploring this diverse community’s roots here through the month. There’s everything from panels exploring the underrated role of Chinese chippies in Britain, to panels with literary heavyweights and Harvest Celebrations. Check the event calendar here, and check out our guide to the London’s best Chinese fare from a wide range of Asian voices here.


Royale at East London Liquor Company. Photo courtesy of Royale.

Week of August 15th

The Restaurant Rec

Abby Lee has made a name for herself and her supper club Mambow, with faithful riffs (and a few twists) on her favourite Malaysian dishes. She arrives at Peckham Levels with her first restaurant to sold-out dishes, critical acclaim, and a new legion of fans. One of the most exciting young chefs cooking in London right now – don’t hesitate.

 

The Splurge

Nick Bramham’s lobster roll at Quality Wines is a thing of beauty. Order one each with a couple of his fine rabbit pastas and a bottle of something special to share – ask somm Chris Madden for advice – at this intimate Farringdon wine bar. Oh, and save space for the cherry clafoutis for dessert – it’s pretty damn special.

 

The Drinks Proposal

Join natural wine maestros Bar Crispin on 25th August to celebrate the bar’s first birthday, with £2.50 oysters and £5 glasses of pet-nat all day. Aside from the Soho location and likely gorgeous weather, it’s going to be popular – hit it up early to avoid disappointment. More info here.

 

The Event Invite

Join sisters Shaunae and Natasha, co-founders of café Brunswick East, for an eight-course tasting menu with drinks and canapes, followed by a tour of the café’s own rooftop Sky Farm in Dalston on August 26th. A carefully selected natural wine list will be on hand to quench your thirst, alongside an all-British cocktail menu featuring house-made liqueurs. This celebratory event routinely sells out, so be quick.

 

The Weekend Pairing

It’s festival season! For those headed to All Points East and Field Day, get ahead of the crowd by having dinner and a breather at one of Victoria Park’s excellent neighbourhood restaurants. Think Royalefor French rotisserie chicken and Provencal cooking; My Neighbours the Dumplings for dim sum; and The Empress for superb pub fare.

 

Last Minute Weekend Plans

Strolling down the Regents Canal towpath – with a stop at Towpath for coffee – is something we wait all year to savour. After dawdling through Islington, break off at Broadway Market and head to Koya Ko for a bowl of udon noodles; specifically, a special of yellow chicken curry udon with pickles and blood orange, devised by guest chef Ben Chapman of Kiln and Smoking Goat.

 


Photo courtesy of Tatale. Credit: Felix Speller

Week of August 1st

The Restaurant Rec

Tatale, the highly anticipated pan-African restaurant from chef Akwasi Brenya-Mensa, has arrived at the brand new Africa Centre in Southwark, bringing with it irresistible dishes like ackee croquettes, chichinga buttermilk chicken, and red red, a comforting Ghanaian black eyed bean stew with plantain. The interiors are beautiful, the drinks are strong, and the excitement is palpable. So, what are you waiting for?

 

The Drinks Proposal

Hidden away in a courtyard, seconds from Bank station, Where’s Fred’s is a cosy coffee shop and café that morphs into an intimate natural wine bar come evening. It’s the rare independent in this part of town you’ll want to keep for yourself, with Instagrammable interiors, light, seasonal cooking, and an excellent list of cocktails and low-intervention wines by the glass. Sneak away early for a cheeky round or two – who could blame you?

 

The Event Invite

Hawksmoor’s annual charity dinner is back for 2022, raising money for Action Against Hunger with Tomos Parry of Brat and Sessions Arts Club’s Florence Knight joining Hawksmoor’s Group Exec Chef Matt Brown. Cocktails will kick off the evening, with a curated wine list and hosting from critic Jay Rayner, with all proceeds going towards the charity. 10th September at Hawksmoor Guildhall – tickets here.

 

Last-Minute Weekend Plans

Join Italian spirits maker Del Professore for an evening of tastings revolving around their speciality vermouths and gins, guided by award-winning bartender Aaron Gilbert. It’ll take place in the lounge at Eataly’s stylish restaurant Terra, with a special Negroni menu designed especially for the night. Get your tickets here.

 

From The Tipline

The newly opened Kindred may be one of the most sought-after private club memberships in West London, but the fact that chef Andrew Clarke (Brunswick House, Acme Fire Cult) developed the menu at Cellar, its all-day bar and restaurant, isn’t known to everyone. Expect creative plates like Korean-style tartare of Dexter beef with straw fries or a cooling Vesuvio tomato panzanella with cucumbers, plus a memorable brunch. Get on it.


Photo courtesy of The Pelican

Week of July 18th

The Restaurant Rec

The Pelican in Notting Hill has been open for a while, and the love for this revamped Notting Hill pub and restaurant has been a slow burn. But recent reviews have raised its profile massively – regular readers might have spotted it on our Hit List back in April — and what was once a popular destination is now one of the city’s hottest tables. The lobster and monkfish pie is still great, as are steaks, seafood, and bar snacks like the now-canon spider crab toast.

 

The Drinks Proposal

As part of their series of monthly wine tastings, orange wine specialist Silver Lining are teaming up with Modal Wines to explore all things pet-nat. They’ll be serving interesting and less well known varieties of the popular naturally sparkling style, alongside engaging conversation and superior bar snacks. Info here.

 

The Event Invite

Join the eponymous Imad of Imad’s Syrian Kitchen on the 25th July for an intimate supperclub-style evening of food and conversation, with the chef joined by fellow Syrian activist and refugee Dima Aktaa. Expect engaging and inspiring conversation, family-style feasting dishes, and the stellar hospitality the restaurant has become known for. Get your tickets here.

 

Last-Minute Weekend Plans

Inspired by the work of artist Emma Talbot, Townsend are cooking a one-off menu in the Whitechapel Gallery’s upstairs Creative Studio, with dishes focusing on foraged produce and paired to natural wines. Expect a beautiful evening with mesmerising East London rooftop views. Grab a ticket here.

 

From The Tipline

Reservations for Miznon – the electric new Middle Eastern restaurant from chef Eyal Shani (of NYC’s acclaimed HaSalon) have opened, and the first guests have just had a couple of days to visit. Be quick this week and you can be among the first to dine on dishes like cheeseburger pita and whole roasted cauliflower at a gleaming new space in Soho. Grab a table here.


Photo courtesy Soho House.

Week of July 4

The Restaurant Rec

Offering a modern twist on the classic South Asian pub, The Tamil Prince in Islington comes from an ex-Roti King duo, offering a one-two punch of English and Indian beers, cocktails, and robust South Asian cooking. Whether you’re after a snack of okra fries, dhal makhana or crab soup; or going all in on stellar grilled seafood, curries, and desserts, an evening here is an easy win. More info here.

 

The Splurge

Terra, Eataly’s upscale restaurant and grill, will host a relaxed four-course dinner with four paired wines from Ferrari Trento, one of Italy’s foremost producers of luxury sparkling wine. Taking place on Tuesday 12th July at 7pm, it’s an opportunity to get the full range of the winemaker, while enjoying nuanced pairings with dishes like vanilla crème brûlée with strawberries, pan-fried John Dory, or salmon tartare with pickled cucumbers and lemon salsa verde. Book your spot here.

 

Last-Minute Weekend Plans

Want to catch all the tennis in central London? Regent Street are hosting open air viewings of the action – just around the corner, Fallow are offering excellent ex-dairy beef burgers to take away, plus strawberries and cream soft serve and G&Ts. Check here for more info.

 

The Event Invite

Gilded Soho chic meets East London cool at the iconic restaurant Kettners in Soho, who are hosting the excellent Clarence Tavern for heartwarming roasts, seasonal plates, and plenty of excellent wine and cocktails. The chance to eat this food, in this space, shouldn’t be missed — but you’ll need to convince a Soho House membership-toting pal to get in. Details here.

 

The Drink Proposal

Bethnal Green and Hackney don’t lack for stellar drinking spots, but the old Peg & Patriot was a formidable cocktail bar in itself. Taking its place is the excellent new Silk Weaver, perfect for a post-work cocktail or pre-dinner aperitivo, with slick creations like the Death by Diamonds, a blend of pear and rosemary vodka, honey water, lemon juice and champagne on offer.

 

From The Tipline

The final instalment of the Borough Yards development is a spacious new Barrafina, with all of the dinner theatre, pitch-perfect tapas, and glamour Londoners have come to expect from the iconic tapas bar. It’s opening at the end of the month, on 30th July, but reservations are already open – don’t miss out.

 


Photo courtesy Dishpatch

Week of June 20

The Restaurant Rec

Lighthaus, the Leytonstone community café and natural wine bar also doubles up as a hidden al fresco gem, and a space for up-and-coming residencies. All-female duo Missy are on the pans right now, with excellent weekly menus bursting with standout seasonal produce and easy-to-love plates like panisse and taramasalata, burrata with Italian peas, or a superb bavette with shoestring fries and pickled peppercorn sauce. The unexpected location and warm neighbourhood vibe add to the joy of ‘stumbling’ upon such a gem. Make a reservation here.

 

The Splurge

Make your way to Selin Kiazim and Laura Christie’s groundbreaking Turkish restaurant Oklava on June 28th for a one-off, all-inclusive supper, with every element of the dinner – from producers and farmers to artisans and restaurant workers – dedicated to women in the hospitality industry. There’s a four-course menu with wine pairings, special cocktails, speeches from Christie and Kiazim themselves, plus a special gift for each guest. A splurge worth every penny – tickets here.

 

The Takeout Rec

A widely adored figure in London’s Caribbean dining scene, chef Marie Mitchell of Island Social Club has put together a special menu for nationwide delivery for Dishpatch, with a vibrant ‘Caribbean summer feast’ showcasing the region’s flavours alongside seasonal British produce. Expect peppered prawns, comforting chicken colombo purring with coconut, squash, and chocho, and served with roti, with ginger lime cheesecake and fresh mango for dessert. An excellent vegan option is available, and the kit can be ordered here.

 

The Event Invite

Summer means sparkling wine and oysters, and one of the best places to savour the pairing is at Cave Cuvee’s ‘Shuck It and Sea’ all-day party on Sunday June 26th with shellfish wholesalers Rocks. There’ll be sparkling wines poured from 2pm until late, and fresh oysters shucked until they run out. No need to book – just show up.

 

The Drinks Proposal

Parisian Carole Bryone set up Lady of The Grapes, her petite Covent Garden restaurant and wine bar as a showcase for the best natural wines made by female winemakers – and it’s an excellent bolthole for extended catchups with loved ones over a bottle or two. Keep an eye on their Instagram for special showcase nights featuring winemakers like the Czech Republic’s Voni Wines.

 

Last Minute Plans

With an acclaimed West African restaurant and numerous accolades under her belt, chef Adejoké Bakare is one of the city’s most in-demand talents right now. Her one-off supper club on June 22nd at Brixton village – featuring all-new dishes like twice-cooked goat neck sauce with baobab couscous, or wild watermelon seed custard with spiced nut granola – is likely to be popular, so move fast.

 


Photo courtesy The Water House Project

Week of June 6

The Restaurant Rec

Follow the aroma of refried beans on Kingsland Road, down to this subterranean gem beneath beloved neighbourhood bar Ruby’s. Mexican cuisine has improved in the capital, and Corrochio’s, a labour of love by founder Daniel Corrochio, is one to cherish – a late night hangout with a short list of dishes (excellent vampiros, tacos, and lesser-seen dishes like lengua and huarache) plus a strong spirits lineup (mezcal and tequila, yes, but also sotol and raicilla) offered neat or as cocktails. Pay them a visit for Saturday brunch and a standout plate of chilaquiles.

 

The Drinks Proposal

This stunner of a sherry bar in Borough Yards (from the team behind Barrafina and Quo Vadis) is officially open, and we’re here for it; a small-but-perfectly formed selection of sherries, cocktails, wines and snacks feels perfect for this time of year, as does a location seconds from Borough Market, but hidden away enough to feel special. Peep the sleek split-level interior, with its Mallorcan design details, intricate chandeliers, and cool clay walls and seats. Go before everyone else does.

 

The Event Invite

In a meeting of the (wine) families, Top Cuvee of the east will put their four best wines against ‘west’ London’s Maison Francois (St. James is technically west, for what it’s worth) in the categories of sparkling, red, white and ‘wild card’. Entitled ‘East Meets West’, the action will take place in Frank’s, Maison Francois’ subterranean wine bar, with plenty of snacks, excellent wines by the glass, and presumably plenty of smack talk about gilets and Pantone dip dyes.

 

The Splurge

Gabriel Waterhouse set up The Water House Project, his eponymous fine dining supperclub years ago, and it’s gone from strength to strength, finally arriving as a permanent restaurant at a beautiful light-filled space by the Regents Canal in Hackney. Right now, it’s arguably one of the very best tasting menu experiences in London, equal parts fun and refined, punchy and delicate, with Waterhouse and his team’s personality shining through. For those able to, a six-course lunch menu with wine pairing is an ideal way to experience it. More info here.

 

Last-Minute Weekend Plans

Taste 30 wines for £30 – yes, you read that right. Peckham’s favourite neighbourhood bar and restaurant is hosting a trade-style event on June 12th for all comers to try wines from the team’s favourite suppliers, each hosting their own table and telling their own stories. This summer edition is sure to sell out, so move quickly. More info here.

 


Photo courtesy Ombra

Week of May 23

The Restaurant Rec

One of Europe’s most exciting culinary talents is popping up on the Strand this week. Anaïs Ca Dao (who worked at Paris’s Import Export CAM and as Bao’s development chef) will be on the pans at Maison Mathilde, a series of lunches at 180 Studios that will offer her interpretation of the French-Vietnamese dishes that she grew up eating. With travels and other creative projects taking up the chef’s time, opportunities to taste her cooking have been few and far between – don’t miss out. Walk-ins only, from 12:30pm, 24-27th May.

 

The Drink Proposal

Elliot’s Hackney are hosting Lazio winemakers Guiliano and Simone Salesi from Podere Orto for a wine-fuelled feast this Sunday 29th May, with a special menu inspired by the region and designed to pair with their delicate and balanced wines. Expect dishes like artichoke vignarola, ricotta muscia, pizza carbonara and even fried maritozzi, all taken in the restaurant’s joyous light-filled dining room by London Fields. More info here.

 

The Event Invite

One of the most important voices in Caribbean cuisine today, Caribe’ chef-patron Keshia Sakarah is bringing back her excellent Baruru supperclubs for summer 2022. Hosted once a month at 83 Dalston Lane, the supperclubs are known for being equal parts inspiring, educational, and delicious, with an entirely new menu that spotlights different islands in the Caribbean. On 8th June, the chef will prepare dishes from Haiti, Guadeloupe, Trinidad, and Barbados, while host Renée Landell will share histories and anecdotes between courses. One of the city’s very best pop-ups — book your spot here.

 

The Takeout Move

Known for knockout fried chicken, potent cocktails and a feelgood vibe at their restaurants, Chick ‘n’ Sours have also hosted some standout collaborations over the years. This time, they’ve teamed up with London’s own Rangoon Sisters on a brand-new fried chicken sandwich that riffs on the traditional Burmese dish, ohn no khao swe (coconut chicken noodles), with a fried chicken thigh, creamy coconut curry sauce, chilli, coriander, and crisp noodles for extra crunch. Pair with a sour cocktail and fries for maximum enjoyment. Available from their Seven Dials and Haggerston sites via Deliveroo.

 

Last Minute Weekend Plans

On Sunday May 29th, Italian favourite Ombra is hosting a boozy throwback lunch inspired by a recent visit to Emilia-Romagna, followed by a party that promises to be one for the books. They’re teaming up with farmer and winemaker Federico Orsi of Vigneto san Vito in Bologna, who will be pouring his low-intervention wines through a sumptuous five-course lunch. After 5pm, the tables will be cleared away and it’s mortadella sandwiches and frothy glasses of Pignoletto all night, to the sweet sounds of Danny Della and Greggy Panini. Ombra’s parties on Vyner Street used to get very spirited, so those in the mood to party shouldn’t miss out. Reservations for lunch advised; walk-ins only after 5pm.

 


Bloody Marys, sausages and gravy, and pie at Snackbar. Photo courtesy Snackbar

Week of May 9

The Restaurant Rec

With fine weather forecasted until the end of the month, it’s time to welcome back al fresco dining – and this time, it’s for the sheer pleasure of it. Head to the new Acme Fire Cult in Dalston, a heated outdoor terrace at 40FT Brewery with fresh, cold pours and a menu of stunning vegetable dishes cooked over open fire, like Andrew Clarke’s hearth vegetable plate, a simple but fiercely flavourful plate of wood-fired vegetables showcasing the best of the season’s produce; or a summery dish of Trombetta courgettes with nutty black chickpeas, vadouvan butter and crème fraiche.

 

The Drink Proposal

All of the tequila, courtesy of award-winning agaveria Hacha. Their mirror margarita – a smooth, svelte beauty of a cocktail Blanco – has few peers, and the drink’s smoothness and balance makes it perfect for warm weather. There’s also a deep bar of over 25 agave spirits (from rare mezcals to lesser-known agave distillates) and food from Tigre Tacos. Raise a glass at their new Brixton Market bar, or their original East London location.

 

The Splurge

Make for Orasay and its fabled Black Book, chef Jackson Boxer’s personal wine stash that guests can order from at his Notting Hill seafood restaurant. Of note: a summery but lush 2020 Romaneaux-Destezet, Hervé Souhaut from the Rhone valley that’s a delightful foil for Boxer’s fish and shellfish cooking. Or, treat yourself to a 2010 Weingut Knoll, ‘Pfaffenberg Riesling’ from Austria that’s a gorgeous pairing with raw seafood.

 

The Takeout Move

What says ‘summer’ more than a colourful spread? If you’re too hot to venture outside, critical darling Bubala will deliver a pitch-perfect vegetarian meze spread with braised fennel, crispy potato latkes, honeyed halloumi, and some of the best hummus and labneh you’ll ever eat. All you need to do is put a tablecloth down, pour a couple of cold drinks, and serve.

 

Last-Minute Weekend Plans

Head to Snackbar for the double header of its new bottomless brunch, and the reopening of its splendid garden. Go all in on biscuits and gravy, topped with a rich sausage gravy and poached egg, and chilaquiles, before finishing with gooey butter cake, an oozing, dense slice of coffee cake, sweet and dusted with icing sugar.

 


Photo courtesy Arcade London.

Week of April 25

The Restaurant Rec

The place on everyone’s lips right now is, of course, the revamped Arcade London by Centre Point, run and staffed by the JKS restaurant group (Hoppers, Gymkhana, Trishna, etc); of these, the most anticipated is Luke Farrell’s Plaza Khao Gaeng, a Singburi-esque take on the cuisine of Southern Thailand. Expect everything from electrifying salads, tart curries, and plenty of heat at this much-feted new opening.

 

The Drink Proposal

Known as one of the foremost places to drink orange wine in London, Hackney’s Silver Linings is dedicating the April edition of its monthly ‘Tasting Notes’ sessions to exploring the Austrian grape, Grüner Veltliner. On Thursday 28th, expect four generous pours (via elite importer Newcomer Wines) that showcase the grape’s diversity, while the team talk you through each one at your table. Meanwhile, Newcomer’s own Angelo Van Dyk will be on hand to answer questions during the laid-back session.

 

The Event Invite

Form an orderly queue – on Tuesday 26th, Dalston’s Supa-Ya are celebrating their third birthday with bowls or slurpable ramen for a tenner each, instead of £15. In addition, throughout May, expect one-off collaborations and never-before-seen specials, like an extravagant turbot ‘tonkotsu’, with butter roasted turbot, garlic oil, and bottarga.

And while their collaboration with Cave Cuvee isn’t until 15th May, tickets for Indonesian supperclub Spoons’ kitchen takeover go on sale Tuesday at midday. Host and cook Rahel Stephanie is one of the city’s most thrilling new talents, and her last event sold out in under a minute – you won’t want to miss this.

 

The Splurge

Nuno Mendes’ long-awaited Lisboeta finally opened recently, and it’s a good one – an elegant, modern space on Charlotte Street with a long bar, plenty of cosy booths, and a raucous atmosphere reminiscent of a favourite Lisbon bar. Mendes’ cooking is precise but satisfying, using the best ingredients, and splurge-worthy dishes like grilled carabineiro prawns, razor clam and red prawn rice, and delicate dry-cured ham from Alentejo, along with a swoon-worthy wine list.

 

From the Tipline

Tipped to be the most exciting set of openings this summer, the new Borough Yards development will usher in a new Barrafina and the all-new Bar Daskal, plus a sleek new iteration of Parrillan, the Spanish al fresco grill concept that’s been a huge success in Kings Cross. With an official launch date of 5th May, reservations for Parrillan Borough Yards have just gone live, promising chic tabletop grills, sparklingly fresh vegetables and seafood, and some of the best wood oven cooking London has to offer, all in one of the most gorgeously designed spaces around.

 


In this week’s edition: a perfect Sichuan fried chicken sandwich. Photo courtesy The Dishpatch

Week of April 11

The Restaurant Rec

Brothers Fin and Lorcan Spiteri have worked at some of the city’s most respected institutions between them. The front-of-house and kitchen duo recently opened Caravel, an intimate dining room located in a converted barge on the Regents Canal close to Islington, moored off Holborn Studios; expect playful takes on the modern British cooking their forebears came to define (via St. John and Rochelle Canteen), as well as perfectly judged cocktails and one of the most romantic dining rooms in London. Need to impress someone in a pinch? Go here. It’s dinner only at the moment, but emerging to the glow of lamps shimmering on the water after a few rounds of cocktails and perfectly-judged pasta is a winner, in our book.

 

The Drink Proposal

Passione Vino in Shoreditch has become one of the places to drink Italian wine in the capital, not least for its cosy atmosphere and the effervescence of its owner, Luca Dusi. His conviction and passion (the clue’s in the name) means that each visit to this wine bar is an adventure, with Italianate recommendations both idiosyncratic and occasionally genuinely exclusive; the kind of wine bar most spend years searching for but seldom ever find. Hot right now – Malibràn’s Sottoriva Col Fondo, a superbly balanced Italian sparkling wine, a rebuke to the idea that all prosecco is sweet and uninteresting. Read more about the wine, the bar, and where to drink here.

 

The Event Invite

Want to attend one of the most stylish dinner parties in town, at one of the best restaurants in London? An evening at the dreamy Quo Vadis and Friends dinner series genuinely feels like attending a glamorous friend’s soiree, with friends old and new – communal seating in one of the restaurant’s gorgeous private rooms is standard, encouraging joyous banter and passionate exchange. In the kitchen, Jeremy Lee and his team host a guest chef every few weeks, with recent luminaries including Anna Tobias of Café Deco and Lee Tiernan of Black Axe Mangal. Next up; on April 27th, trail blazer and visionary chef Adejoké Bakare of Chishuru, who will be plating up her scintillating takes on West African dishes. Bakare is genuinely one of the most exciting talents right now – the opportunity to experience her food and hospitality at this Soho classic shouldn’t be missed.

 

The Takeout Move

One of the hottest restaurants of 2021, Mr Ji in Soho became a must-visit on the strength of Cyan Wong’s East Asian-inspired cocktails, a vibey late-night feel, and a menu of innovative small plates from ceaselessly creative duo TĀTĀ Eatery. One of the undisputed highlights on the menu is the Sichuan chicken burger, a playful spiced fried chicken thigh with cooling cucumber salad, sandwiched between a pineapple bun. They’ve also thrown in crisp truffle and potato croquettes and a serving of Taiwanese-style golden kimchi with each meal kit (available via The Dishpatch), plenty for two.

 

From the Tipline

Long regarded as one of London’s most innovative talents, particularly in the field of plant-forward and sustainably minded cookery, the announcement of Chantelle Nicholson’s signature Mayfair restaurant Apricity was earmarked as one of the year’s hottest arrivals. The good news is that reservations for the dining room are now live, with demand likely to pick up – and spots likely to be in high demand – as the first influencers and critics start trickling in. See also – the restaurant’s 10-seat chef’s counter, which isn’t open to the public just yet, but promises an opportunity to experience one of the city’s greatest talents up close and personal.


Photo courtesy Tillingham

Week of February 22

The Delivery Rec

A restaurant hypebeast’s dream collaboration, the wildly creative minds behind Black Axe Mangal have teamed up with neo-Taiwanese bunslingers Bao for a limited edition DIY offering to put together at home. Namely: the latter’s pillowy soft gua bao buns filled with fork-tender ox tongue, rarebit, tangy sauerkraut, French’s mustard, pickles, and spicy crispy shallots. As is typical of BAM founder Lee Tiernan’s creations, it sounds mad, but works a treat. For £50, you’ll get six, plus a limited edition collaboration t-shirt and a couple of Taiwan beers. Get it here.

 

The Drink Proposal

If the weather this past weekend was anything to go by, spring isn’t too far off. For those with gardens – or really, a sliver of outdoor space to enjoy the outdoors – it’s an opportunity to plan for sessions in the sunshine and a glass of something delicious. A lighter, juicier wine fits the bill perfectly, like Tillingham’s iconic PN20 (£27 from Tillingham) – a fruity pét-nat produced in Sussex with hints of bright, berry fruit and soft acidity – or Spirals Chabernet (£21.50, from Leroy, via Others Wine), a happy accident combining Chardonnay with Cabernet Sauvignon destined for the estate blend. A thoroughly smashable red, and well worth taking a punt on.

 

The Streaming Rec

ASAP Pizza have been a godsend during lockdown, with gamechanging pizzas (crisp, sturdy bases fashioned from milled heritage grains), fun branding, and a playful approach to toppings, courtesy of chef Pam Yung. They’ve launched a series of guest pizzas, with topping courtesy of two of London’s most interesting young chefs (Quality WinesNick Bramham and Mitshel Ibrahim of Ombra) alongside US comedians Eric Wareheim and Aziz Ansari. First up: Bramham’s take on a Hawaiian pizza, best enjoyed with a favourite beer or wine, and a revisiting of Ansari and Alan Yang’s first season of Master of None on Netflix – a fitting refresher to the series’ forthcoming third season. With London confirmed as a location, it’ll make for an interesting game of “spot the restaurant” for local fans. Order here.

 

The Splurge

With two Michelin stars and a starry CV – Per Se, Noma – chef James Knappett knows a few things about delivering a special experience at Kitchen Table, his Fitzrovia temple to cutting-edge fine dining. Fittingly, his & Home tasting menu – seven courses, £150 for two – delivers on every front, with beautiful dishes like hand dived scallops with hazelnut and herb butter, Cornish brill with wild garlic en papillotte, or perfectly baked canelé infused with Tahitian vanilla and dark rum. Extras like champagne and grilled Cornish lobster are worth the asking price, and each dish need only to be finished and plated. Order here.

 


Image courtesy Wun’s Tearoom and 8unHouse.

Week of February 1

The Delivery Rec

Adored for the fluffiest, lightest steamed Chinese buns in the capital, Wun’s Tea Room in Soho now have the distinction of delivering nationwide. Whether you’re ordering for yourself or as a gift, each pack is easily steamed at home – a variety of fillings are offered, but the standouts are, of course, the char siu pork and custard. Excellent har gau and siu mai, too. Get ‘em here.

The Drink Proposal

After a long winter, most peoples’ drinking habits have either evaporated completely, or veered into uncharted territory. It’s apt then, that Michael Sager – he of the gamechanging bar Sager + Wilde – is back to offer a modicum of structure. His monthly Sager + Wilde Wine Club offers unprecedented access to some of his cellar’s gems, guided video tastings, 15% off each of his restaurants, and remarkably, 24/7 access to Sager himself via a direct helpline. His early cellar raids unearthed some outstanding bottles, so if a discerning subscription-style service is what you’re after – this is the one.

The Streaming Rec

Among the flashy, big-budget food shows (Ugly Delicious, Chef’s Table) available to stream on Netflix are a crop of under-the-radar gems that offer subtler pleasures — and plenty of rewards. Following the stories of the regulars at a late-night izakaya in Shinjuku, Midnight Diner: Tokyo Stories has attracted acclaim from both cinemaphiles and food lovers with its heartfelt narratives, contemplative (and delectable) food shots, and frank interactions between guests and the chef — a balm for anyone missing the pleasure of eating at a counter right now. Order from excellent Japanese restaurant Hannah on the South Bank to accompany your night in — dishes, from comforting oyakodon and hot pot to excellent sushi and grills — arrive perfectly packaged. For the indecisive, there are omakase and bento box options too.

 

The Splurge

Having turned from a cult Hackney local to garnering national acclaim for its quick-thinking approach to the pandemic (and excellent cotechino sandwiches), Ombra and its mercurial chef Mitshel Ibrahim are a one-stop for shop for every lockdown want. Award-winning tiramisu and lasagne too passe? Throw in a black winter truffle while they have them, sniffed out in the hills of Abruzzo and delicious shaved – heaped – on top of scrambled eggs or fresh pasta. Looking for fresh pasta? They sell that, too.


Image Courtesy Send a Negroni.

Week of January 18

The Delivery Rec

With everything that’s going on, it’s easy to forget that there are things in the calendar to raise a glass to. Burns Night is celebrated on the 25th of January, for which the team at the excellent Townsend restaurant in Whitechapel have put together a celebratory four-course dinner for two, complete with haggis, neeps, tatties and whisky sauce, plus dessert and a copy of Robert Burn’s ‘Ode to a Haggis’ for £40. Elsewhere, chef James Cochrane of 12:51 has put together his own Burns Night meal kit, with accompanying drinks from Talisker whisky plus a live cook along on the day itself.

 

The Drink Proposal

Know a friend who would appreciate a small pick-me-up? A couple of bartender friends have gotten together to create Send a Negroni, which enables folks to send a pre-made negroni to a friend in the post, along with a personalised postcard, for the princely sum of £10 – postage included. Along with the good stuff (classic Campari, Porter’s gin from Aberdeen, and award-winning Baldoria vermouth), it’s a small gesture that goes a long way – especially in These Trying Times.

 

Worth Leaving The House For

Hackney uber-bistro Bright have pared back their delivery offerings to the essentials (and by ‘essentials’ we also mean an incredible dish of morels and chicken cooked in vin jaune), but their signature squid sandwich – one of the great dishes of this past lockdown, and only available for collection – has still drawn out the London Fields crowd. Crispy, tender pieces of squid with a fierce garlic aioli in a squishy bun makes for a perfect lunch, especially when eaten just-warm in front of the restaurant.

 

The Splurge

There were few better places than The Sea, The Sea, for a well-earned reward pre-pandemic, and the same holds true during lockdown. Silken sashimi direct from Britain’s best dayboats and regional markets is among the finest in London (especially in the hands of a chef like Leo Carreira), while at-home dishes like cured cod with shredded potatoes and dressed crab with crisp sourdough crackers show the beguiling touch that has made Carreira revered in the industry – even if you’re enjoying it on the sofa while binging Bridgerton. For serious high rollers, throw in a tin of caviar and a bottle of grower champagne. Order them here.


Image courtesy Three Sheets.

Week of November 9

The Drink Proposal

The annual World’s 50 Best Bars list was published recently and, suffice to say, London was very well represented on the list, with 8 of the top 50 hailing from the Big Smoke (including Artesian, the overall top pick). While we can’t visit them in person, several are offering pre-made cocktails for delivery, including Tayēr + Elementary (innovative pours), Swift (old-world favourites), and Three Sheets (classics with a twist) — perfect for post-work drinks at home while you hate-watch Emily in Paris again. 

The Event Invite

Week two of Margot Henderson’s culinary odyssey for Rochelle Canteen’s offering for At-Home Specials sees her put her stamp on the dishes of Rose Chalalai-Singh, her friend and owner of Thai eatery Ya Lamaï in Paris. Henderson has always been effusive about her love for East and South-East Asian flavours, and an entirely new menu of Thai-meets-Rochelle is an opportunity for her to present her own spin of the cuisine — and for guests to try it. On the menu: lobster, brown shrimp and lemongrass salad, duck red curry, wines from St. John, and spicy sobrasada on toast, made from Rose’s pigs on her farm in Mallorca. Get yours here.

Delivery Rec

Pick a restaurant — any restaurant. Big Night, co-founded by The Laughing Heart’s Charlie Mellor, is stacked with some of London’s best restaurants who are offering the best of their menus for delivery. Pick from Legare’s hand-rolled pasta and cannoli, Mexican sharing feasts from Tacos Padre, 10 Greek Street’s pizzas and wines from its legendary Black Book, and many more. 

Weekend Pairing

It may be unseasonably warm at the moment, but not even Covid can stop London’s Christmas lights. If you happen to be in the area, an end-to-end tour of Oxford Street’s lights — perhaps with excursions to Covent Garden and Carnaby’s displays — without the crowds promises to brighten the spirits, albeit with the reminder that central London is quiet for a reason. While you’re in town, stop by Chinatown or by any of the area’s restaurants and bars still offering takeout to enjoy at home or while perusing the displays. 

From The Tipline

We’ve heard that Marcelo Rodrigues, head chef at Rubedo in Stoke Newington, has fired up an impromptu rotisserie, offering succulent roast chickens with a gentle, flavoursome peri-peri baste. At £12 per bird, they’re a relative bargain; consult the restaurant’s friendly and knowledgeable owner on a perfect wine pairing for your dinner while you’re at it, too. Collection only for now. 

 


Image Courtesy Tacos El Pastor

Week of October 26

The Drink Proposal

A properly made martini is a wonderful thing, and few do it better than Dalston maestros Three Sheets. Befitting the times we live in, they’re offering two of them for £15 before 6 p.m. — irresistible, and probably (definitely) lethal, depending on who’s drinking them. Outdoor seating is available, and the rest of their drinks lineup stands toe-to-toe with the city’s best.

 

The Event Invite

Few restaurants evoke that rare combination of genuine affection and respect as Rochelle Canteen. Founders Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson’s sense of wit, taste, and generosity is unparalleled, so it’s little wonder that their At Home Specials dinner kits for November are hot property, with dishes like braised squid, chickpeas and winter tomato, and Thai-style duck curry inspired by some of their favourite chefs around the world. Pick them up here. Elsewhere, London’s favourite taqueria El Pastor are delivering their excellent Taco Party boxes within 2.5 miles of Kings Cross and Borough Market — think tacos, tostadas, margaritas, and sides for groups of two, four, or six, all in sustainable and temperature controlled packaging. A guaranteed win for a celebration — or a midweek treat.

 

Restaurant Rec

Not one, but three of the city’s most exciting new eateries, all within seconds of each other in Borough Market’s covered, open-air stalls. On Fridays or Saturdays, start with micheladas, carnitas, and still-warm tortillas to share at All My Friends, before splitting several explosively flavoured plates for sharing at High Beam — the bhel, okra fries, and chilli paneer are all memorable. Finish with cheesecake and pistachio crumble at modern Hebrew spot Erev.

 

Weekend Pairing

In case the rush of themed content hadn’t made it clear, Halloween is this week. Amble down to Peckham’s Copeland Park, transformed into an eerie forest, for a series of immersive horror screenings. The hangar-esque building is spacious enough for distancing, and cinemas aren’t affected by the curfew, and it’s a perfect excuse to support a few of the neighbourhood’s OG traders by embarking on a West African suya crawl. Load up on perfectly grilled, exquisitely spiced meat by hitting three of the neighbourhood’s finest, as recommended by writer Jonathan Nunn — Suuyar, Angel’s Bakery, and Suya Spot — which will provide as many thrills as the film.

 

From The Tipline

Word on the street is that Koya — one of the best noodle shops outside Japan — is celebrating its 10th anniversary by revisiting the most popular specials from its legendary blackboard through October and November. Expect to revisit dishes like the English breakfast udon, or grilled carrot tempura with hoji-cha salt at both City and Soho sites.

 


Image courtesy Tayēr + Elementary

Week of October 12

The Event Invite

The restaurant industry isn’t out of the woods by a long shot, but it’s encouraging to see some of lockdown’s grafters doing exciting things. First up: Sustainable fine diner Fallow, who are collaborating with Valentine Warner on a one-off autumnal dinner paired to gin cocktails from Northumberland-based Hepple spirits. Meanwhile in Whitechapel, cult favourites Rita’s and Manteca are teaming up for a triple collaboration at Townsend that all the cool kids will be at. Expect superlative hand-rolled pastas, lots of natty wine, and plenty of creative flourishes from Rita’s main man Gabriel Pryce. 

 

The Drink Proposal 

It’s London Cocktail Month, so, unsurprisingly, it’s a great time to sip some delicious cocktails. Top of your list should be the excellent Tayēr + Elementary near Old Street for ultra-creative, cutting edge cocktails. They’re offering paired cocktail and food tasting menus that change weekly to focus on a single spirit through the month; first up, Moët + Veuve Clicquot, followed by Ardberg Single Malt, finishing with Eminente Rum. 

 

The Restaurant Rec 

In London terms, 10 Greek Street is practically a classic restaurant at this point. Chef-owner Cameron Emirali’s seasonal, Mediterranean-tinged cooking takes the best elements of Spanish, French, and Italian cuisine and grafts it to British ingredients, in a buzzing space that captures why we all moved to London in the first place. Want to know where you can get a glass of wine in Soho for three quid? It’s here. As a bonus to the light, produce-driven dishes the restaurant is known for, the kitchen has knocked it out of the park with its new pizzas, and the black book of wine is as enticing as ever. 

 

The Weekend Pairing 

October could be the last time that it’s socially acceptable to visit the seaside before it becomes winter. Hop on the train to Brighton from London Bridge (or Victoria) for a day at the beach or an afternoon exploring Brighton Pavilion. Afterwards, jump into a hot sauna at Beach Box, before plunging into the ocean — if you’re lucky, you can catch a murmuration (a balletic aerial dance of starlings) between the piers before sunset. Top it all off with an early dinner at the award-winning Cin Cin in Brunswick Town, where relaxed Italian plates like arancini of south coast crab, or agnolotti of salmon with zucchini fritti and truffled mushroom duxelle have received much critical acclaim. 

 

From the Tipline 

For the first time, the beloved Kitty Fishers in Mayfair is delivering autumnal supper boxes to diners across the city, with hearty dishes like pot roast duck leg with lentils and quince, and a blackberry and apple ‘mess’. Over in Borough Market, talented chef Tom Cenci is embarking on a residency at Stoney Street — his openings menus will focus on championing lesser-known cuts of grass-fed Irish beef, like feather blade or onglet, with a style complementing the restaurant’s slow, seasonal approach to food.