Image courtesy Tillingham.

Resy LineupLondon

The Resy Lineup: Black Axe Mangal x Bao, Juicy Spring Reds, a Two-Star Splurge, and More

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Welcome to the Resy Lineup, your regular fix of socially-distanced recommendations on what to eat, drink, and see at home — updated on a bi-weekly basis.

In this week’s edition: a collaboration between two of London’s most fiendishly creative restaurants, wines to mark the arrival of spring, a new guest chef series at ASAP Pizza, and more.

Week of February 22

The Delivery Rec

A restaurant hypebeast’s dream collaboration, the wildly creative minds behind Black Axe Mangal have teamed up with neo-Taiwanese bunslingers Bao for a limited edition DIY offering to put together at home. Namely: the latter’s pillowy soft gua bao buns filled with fork-tender ox tongue, rarebit, tangy sauerkraut, French’s mustard, pickles, and spicy crispy shallots. As is typical of BAM founder Lee Tiernan’s creations, it sounds mad, but works a treat. For £50, you’ll get six, plus a limited edition collaboration t-shirt and a couple of Taiwan beers. Get it here.

 

The Drink Proposal

If the weather this past weekend was anything to go by, spring isn’t too far off. For those with gardens – or really, a sliver of outdoor space to enjoy the outdoors – it’s an opportunity to plan for sessions in the sunshine and a glass of something delicious. A lighter, juicier wine fits the bill perfectly, like Tillingham’s iconic PN20 (£27 from Tillingham) – a fruity pét-nat produced in Sussex with hints of bright, berry fruit and soft acidity – or Spirals Chabernet (£21.50, from Leroy, via Others Wine), a happy accident combining Chardonnay with Cabernet Sauvignon destined for the estate blend. A thoroughly smashable red, and well worth taking a punt on.

 

The Streaming Rec

ASAP Pizza have been a godsend during lockdown, with gamechanging pizzas (crisp, sturdy bases fashioned from milled heritage grains), fun branding, and a playful approach to toppings, courtesy of chef Pam Yung. They’ve launched a series of guest pizzas, with topping courtesy of two of London’s most interesting young chefs (Quality WinesNick Bramham and Mitshel Ibrahim of Ombra) alongside US comedians Eric Wareheim and Aziz Ansari. First up: Bramham’s take on a Hawaiian pizza, best enjoyed with a favourite beer or wine, and a revisiting of Ansari and Alan Yang’s first season of Master of None on Netflix – a fitting refresher to the series’ forthcoming third season. With London confirmed as a location, it’ll make for an interesting game of “spot the restaurant” for local fans. Order here.

 

The Splurge

With two Michelin stars and a starry CV – Per Se, Noma – chef James Knappett knows a few things about delivering a special experience at Kitchen Table, his Fitzrovia temple to cutting-edge fine dining. Fittingly, his & Home tasting menu – seven courses, £150 for two – delivers on every front, with beautiful dishes like hand dived scallops with hazelnut and herb butter, Cornish brill with wild garlic en papillotte, or perfectly baked canelé infused with Tahitian vanilla and dark rum. Extras like champagne and grilled Cornish lobster are worth the asking price, and each dish need only to be finished and plated. Order here.

 


Image courtesy Wun’s Tearoom and 8unHouse.

Week of February 1

The Delivery Rec

Adored for the fluffiest, lightest steamed Chinese buns in the capital, Wun’s Tea Room in Soho now have the distinction of delivering nationwide. Whether you’re ordering for yourself or as a gift, each pack is easily steamed at home – a variety of fillings are offered, but the standouts are, of course, the char siu pork and custard. Excellent har gau and siu mai, too. Get ‘em here.

The Drink Proposal

After a long winter, most peoples’ drinking habits have either evaporated completely, or veered into uncharted territory. It’s apt then, that Michael Sager – he of the gamechanging bar Sager + Wilde – is back to offer a modicum of structure. His monthly Sager + Wilde Wine Club offers unprecedented access to some of his cellar’s gems, guided video tastings, 15% off each of his restaurants, and remarkably, 24/7 access to Sager himself via a direct helpline. His early cellar raids unearthed some outstanding bottles, so if a discerning subscription-style service is what you’re after – this is the one.

The Streaming Rec

Among the flashy, big-budget food shows (Ugly Delicious, Chef’s Table) available to stream on Netflix are a crop of under-the-radar gems that offer subtler pleasures — and plenty of rewards. Following the stories of the regulars at a late-night izakaya in Shinjuku, Midnight Diner: Tokyo Stories has attracted acclaim from both cinemaphiles and food lovers with its heartfelt narratives, contemplative (and delectable) food shots, and frank interactions between guests and the chef — a balm for anyone missing the pleasure of eating at a counter right now. Order from excellent Japanese restaurant Hannah on the South Bank to accompany your night in — dishes, from comforting oyakodon and hot pot to excellent sushi and grills — arrive perfectly packaged. For the indecisive, there are omakase and bento box options too.

 

The Splurge

Having turned from a cult Hackney local to garnering national acclaim for its quick-thinking approach to the pandemic (and excellent cotechino sandwiches), Ombra and its mercurial chef Mitshel Ibrahim are a one-stop for shop for every lockdown want. Award-winning tiramisu and lasagne too passe? Throw in a black winter truffle while they have them, sniffed out in the hills of Abruzzo and delicious shaved – heaped – on top of scrambled eggs or fresh pasta. Looking for fresh pasta? They sell that, too.


Image Courtesy Send a Negroni.

Week of January 18

The Delivery Rec

With everything that’s going on, it’s easy to forget that there are things in the calendar to raise a glass to. Burns Night is celebrated on the 25th of January, for which the team at the excellent Townsend restaurant in Whitechapel have put together a celebratory four-course dinner for two, complete with haggis, neeps, tatties and whisky sauce, plus dessert and a copy of Robert Burn’s ‘Ode to a Haggis’ for £40. Elsewhere, chef James Cochrane of 12:51 has put together his own Burns Night meal kit, with accompanying drinks from Talisker whisky plus a live cook along on the day itself.

 

The Drink Proposal

Know a friend who would appreciate a small pick-me-up? A couple of bartender friends have gotten together to create Send a Negroni, which enables folks to send a pre-made negroni to a friend in the post, along with a personalised postcard, for the princely sum of £10 – postage included. Along with the good stuff (classic Campari, Porter’s gin from Aberdeen, and award-winning Baldoria vermouth), it’s a small gesture that goes a long way – especially in These Trying Times.

 

Worth Leaving The House For

Hackney uber-bistro Bright have pared back their delivery offerings to the essentials (and by ‘essentials’ we also mean an incredible dish of morels and chicken cooked in vin jaune), but their signature squid sandwich – one of the great dishes of this past lockdown, and only available for collection – has still drawn out the London Fields crowd. Crispy, tender pieces of squid with a fierce garlic aioli in a squishy bun makes for a perfect lunch, especially when eaten just-warm in front of the restaurant.

 

The Splurge

There were few better places than The Sea, The Sea, for a well-earned reward pre-pandemic, and the same holds true during lockdown. Silken sashimi direct from Britain’s best dayboats and regional markets is among the finest in London (especially in the hands of a chef like Leo Carreira), while at-home dishes like cured cod with shredded potatoes and dressed crab with crisp sourdough crackers show the beguiling touch that has made Carreira revered in the industry – even if you’re enjoying it on the sofa while binging Bridgerton. For serious high rollers, throw in a tin of caviar and a bottle of grower champagne. Order them here.


Image courtesy Three Sheets.

Week of November 9

The Drink Proposal

The annual World’s 50 Best Bars list was published recently and, suffice to say, London was very well represented on the list, with 8 of the top 50 hailing from the Big Smoke (including Artesian, the overall top pick). While we can’t visit them in person, several are offering pre-made cocktails for delivery, including Tayēr + Elementary (innovative pours), Swift (old-world favourites), and Three Sheets (classics with a twist) — perfect for post-work drinks at home while you hate-watch Emily in Paris again. 

The Event Invite

Week two of Margot Henderson’s culinary odyssey for Rochelle Canteen’s offering for At-Home Specials sees her put her stamp on the dishes of Rose Chalalai-Singh, her friend and owner of Thai eatery Ya Lamaï in Paris. Henderson has always been effusive about her love for East and South-East Asian flavours, and an entirely new menu of Thai-meets-Rochelle is an opportunity for her to present her own spin of the cuisine — and for guests to try it. On the menu: lobster, brown shrimp and lemongrass salad, duck red curry, wines from St. John, and spicy sobrasada on toast, made from Rose’s pigs on her farm in Mallorca. Get yours here.

Delivery Rec

Pick a restaurant — any restaurant. Big Night, co-founded by The Laughing Heart’s Charlie Mellor, is stacked with some of London’s best restaurants who are offering the best of their menus for delivery. Pick from Legare’s hand-rolled pasta and cannoli, Mexican sharing feasts from Tacos Padre, 10 Greek Street’s pizzas and wines from its legendary Black Book, and many more. 

Weekend Pairing

It may be unseasonably warm at the moment, but not even Covid can stop London’s Christmas lights. If you happen to be in the area, an end-to-end tour of Oxford Street’s lights — perhaps with excursions to Covent Garden and Carnaby’s displays — without the crowds promises to brighten the spirits, albeit with the reminder that central London is quiet for a reason. While you’re in town, stop by Chinatown or by any of the area’s restaurants and bars still offering takeout to enjoy at home or while perusing the displays. 

From The Tipline

We’ve heard that Marcelo Rodrigues, head chef at Rubedo in Stoke Newington, has fired up an impromptu rotisserie, offering succulent roast chickens with a gentle, flavoursome peri-peri baste. At £12 per bird, they’re a relative bargain; consult the restaurant’s friendly and knowledgeable owner on a perfect wine pairing for your dinner while you’re at it, too. Collection only for now. 

 


Image Courtesy Tacos El Pastor

Week of October 26

The Drink Proposal

A properly made martini is a wonderful thing, and few do it better than Dalston maestros Three Sheets. Befitting the times we live in, they’re offering two of them for £15 before 6 p.m. — irresistible, and probably (definitely) lethal, depending on who’s drinking them. Outdoor seating is available, and the rest of their drinks lineup stands toe-to-toe with the city’s best.

 

The Event Invite

Few restaurants evoke that rare combination of genuine affection and respect as Rochelle Canteen. Founders Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson’s sense of wit, taste, and generosity is unparalleled, so it’s little wonder that their At Home Specials dinner kits for November are hot property, with dishes like braised squid, chickpeas and winter tomato, and Thai-style duck curry inspired by some of their favourite chefs around the world. Pick them up here. Elsewhere, London’s favourite taqueria El Pastor are delivering their excellent Taco Party boxes within 2.5 miles of Kings Cross and Borough Market — think tacos, tostadas, margaritas, and sides for groups of two, four, or six, all in sustainable and temperature controlled packaging. A guaranteed win for a celebration — or a midweek treat.

 

Restaurant Rec

Not one, but three of the city’s most exciting new eateries, all within seconds of each other in Borough Market’s covered, open-air stalls. On Fridays or Saturdays, start with micheladas, carnitas, and still-warm tortillas to share at All My Friends, before splitting several explosively flavoured plates for sharing at High Beam — the bhel, okra fries, and chilli paneer are all memorable. Finish with cheesecake and pistachio crumble at modern Hebrew spot Erev.

 

Weekend Pairing

In case the rush of themed content hadn’t made it clear, Halloween is this week. Amble down to Peckham’s Copeland Park, transformed into an eerie forest, for a series of immersive horror screenings. The hangar-esque building is spacious enough for distancing, and cinemas aren’t affected by the curfew, and it’s a perfect excuse to support a few of the neighbourhood’s OG traders by embarking on a West African suya crawl. Load up on perfectly grilled, exquisitely spiced meat by hitting three of the neighbourhood’s finest, as recommended by writer Jonathan Nunn — Suuyar, Angel’s Bakery, and Suya Spot — which will provide as many thrills as the film.

 

From The Tipline

Word on the street is that Koya — one of the best noodle shops outside Japan — is celebrating its 10th anniversary by revisiting the most popular specials from its legendary blackboard through October and November. Expect to revisit dishes like the English breakfast udon, or grilled carrot tempura with hoji-cha salt at both City and Soho sites.

 


Image courtesy Tayēr + Elementary

Week of October 12

The Event Invite

The restaurant industry isn’t out of the woods by a long shot, but it’s encouraging to see some of lockdown’s grafters doing exciting things. First up: Sustainable fine diner Fallow, who are collaborating with Valentine Warner on a one-off autumnal dinner paired to gin cocktails from Northumberland-based Hepple spirits. Meanwhile in Whitechapel, cult favourites Rita’s and Manteca are teaming up for a triple collaboration at Townsend that all the cool kids will be at. Expect superlative hand-rolled pastas, lots of natty wine, and plenty of creative flourishes from Rita’s main man Gabriel Pryce. 

 

The Drink Proposal 

It’s London Cocktail Month, so, unsurprisingly, it’s a great time to sip some delicious cocktails. Top of your list should be the excellent Tayēr + Elementary near Old Street for ultra-creative, cutting edge cocktails. They’re offering paired cocktail and food tasting menus that change weekly to focus on a single spirit through the month; first up, Moët + Veuve Clicquot, followed by Ardberg Single Malt, finishing with Eminente Rum. 

 

The Restaurant Rec 

In London terms, 10 Greek Street is practically a classic restaurant at this point. Chef-owner Cameron Emirali’s seasonal, Mediterranean-tinged cooking takes the best elements of Spanish, French, and Italian cuisine and grafts it to British ingredients, in a buzzing space that captures why we all moved to London in the first place. Want to know where you can get a glass of wine in Soho for three quid? It’s here. As a bonus to the light, produce-driven dishes the restaurant is known for, the kitchen has knocked it out of the park with its new pizzas, and the black book of wine is as enticing as ever. 

 

The Weekend Pairing 

October could be the last time that it’s socially acceptable to visit the seaside before it becomes winter. Hop on the train to Brighton from London Bridge (or Victoria) for a day at the beach or an afternoon exploring Brighton Pavilion. Afterwards, jump into a hot sauna at Beach Box, before plunging into the ocean — if you’re lucky, you can catch a murmuration (a balletic aerial dance of starlings) between the piers before sunset. Top it all off with an early dinner at the award-winning Cin Cin in Brunswick Town, where relaxed Italian plates like arancini of south coast crab, or agnolotti of salmon with zucchini fritti and truffled mushroom duxelle have received much critical acclaim. 

 

From the Tipline 

For the first time, the beloved Kitty Fishers in Mayfair is delivering autumnal supper boxes to diners across the city, with hearty dishes like pot roast duck leg with lentils and quince, and a blackberry and apple ‘mess’. Over in Borough Market, talented chef Tom Cenci is embarking on a residency at Stoney Street — his openings menus will focus on championing lesser-known cuts of grass-fed Irish beef, like feather blade or onglet, with a style complementing the restaurant’s slow, seasonal approach to food. 

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